those are some beef jack stands

 

Looking good man.

I like the jack stands and the total disregard for your old leaf springs.

 

i love the cutting torch......why worry about selling stock leafs anyways.....chit i just gave the rearend away today.......

i cut off 20 stock rivits in 30min.....all the brackets gone.......saweeeet!

 

lookin good... thanks for the pics.

you probably posted it already, but what wall is your DOM for the subframe?

 

im prolly gonna catch hell for this but the subframe is 2" sch 80 pipe (little less then 1/4")......

links are 1.75x.25 DOM


*EDIT*.......2" sch 80 is .218" thick

 

Honestly you'll probably crack at the welds before you mess w/ that schedule 80. W/ metal prices as high as they are, I don't really blame you. I just used up the last bit of 1.5x0.120" DOM I had, and am not looking forward to buying more. I have to though.

 

i retract my previouse statment about your jackstands nick, those things are def. beef.

 

is that a joke on my welds? hahahaha.....i think not!!!!!!!!!!! J/k


really honestly, my frame would rip apart before either of the other two options, its pretty weak, thats why im boxing it and adding crossmembers when i pull the body

 

got my heims and some tabs in......they are significantly bigger then my 7/8's

 

NICE build. It outa be indestructable. Cant wait to see the finished result...

 

But sched 80???? You couldn't have spent a few $$ more and got at least DOM? that sched pipe is meant for commercial applications (i.e ., not as a structural piece like in your frame. I'd be worried about the tube cracking before the welds, especially with supporting the suspension. Lord help you if you hit something and that frame section starts to buckle. Not busting on your build, but as you always say to the others that are building, save your money and do it right the 1st time, that way you won't have to go back and fix your mistakes. The work looks great, just worried about safety for the future, especially if you do the motor you plan on and it is going to be street driven.......

Again, not bustin on you, but from Wikipedia:

The most commonly used schedules today are 40, 80, and 160. There is a commonly held belief that the schedule number is an indicator of the service pressure that the pipe can take. For example, the McGraw Hill Piping Handbook says the schedule number can be converted to pressure by dividing the schedule by 1000 and multiplying by the allowable stress of the material (Ref. #2). However, this is not true. Using equations and rules in ASME B31.3 Process Piping, it is easily shown that pressure rating actually goes down with increasing NPS and constant schedule.

 

i understand where your coming from......

2" sch80 isn't exaclty thin......using for my subframe i dont see a problem.....that subframe is WAY stronger then the actual frame......some trucks swear by sch80 pipe and never have a problem......lots of people use it in their links too with great success......me and my buddy (expeirenced builder) just bought all of our stuff togther in bulk so we could get it cheaper.....so i figured what the hell, it'll be fine........the strength of the 2" sch80 in my subframe doesn't worry me in the slightest, but i wouldn't use it for my links...


*edit* you also have to think that pipe is measured is measured ID......so the pipe's dimensions are actually: 2.436x.218

 

haha no that wasn't a knock on the welds, but its pretty damn hard to get good penetration and fill welding upside down

You aren't going to do anything serious to the SCH80. It might bend if you start doing jumps or get on it really hard. Then again, I think your tabs are way more likely to fold than that. Assuming the tabs hold up, I still think that the welds at the frame would be the first to fail.

Questions...
1. did you prep the frame and the ends of the schedule?
2. did you put the seams of the Sch 80 on the insides of the bends?
3. did/are you going to gusset the sch 80 to frame?

PS, I'm about to beat your *** in this race of rockwells, all i need now is driveshafts and brakelines, oh and 2 more rims roflol

 

no chit!!!.......what i do is turn the wire way down and let it burn in.....but when i first started i had a bead (molten metal) fall on my arm.......that sucked...bad!


im not a fan of my tabs either (thinking about adding some metal when time permits to box them in a bit....kinda like what i did to my 4link brackets on the axle.....i used the ballistic brackets then cut them down some and boxed the entire thing in 3/8.....though the tabs aren't coming off......the outsides are just a nice single bead, but insides the tabs have 3 superpenatrated beads on each side...

1. of course, only a weetaad wouldn't....
2. i honestly dont know, i didn't bend it, and didn't think to look when i welded them on
3. yes i am.....trying to think on a good design



YOU SUCK!!!!!!!!!!

i dont want to think on what else i got.......

but you know why im better?
B/C I POST PICS!!!!!! hahaha

what tires are you running?

how much did you spend on your rig? im already up to around 8-8.5k and i dont even have a engine/trans yet

 

Haha, well since you asked for the hijack and its your thread:

I am going to run the 46" michelin XML tires. I like the pattern and the void that they have, just not their rubber compound. Since I want this streetable, I'm going to run them over something like a 47" LTB.

I don't know how much I have into it. Your 4-link is going to add a whole lot of cost that I don't have. Here's a loose estimate.
$1200 on axles
$500 OEM front locker
$250 hydro steer
$600 tires
$100 DOM/TRE's
$250 divorced NP205
$125 for 1350 yokes
$100 rims
$220 F700 rotors
$180 F350 calipers
$400 driveshafts (?)
$100 brake lines (?)
$200 metal (?, and some of it has found its way to repairing fencing or building gates)

The last three I'm not sure on. I haven't ordered brake lines, I don't have the DOM for the d-shafts, and the metal will go up.

Based upon my mental math, thats $4025. I'm sure its about $500 higher than that. I can't wait to truggy/tube out my sht. That will be $$$ when I have it

edit: I can take out money from things that I need to sell, like my ranchhand bumpers, BW1356, D60/10.25, etc