quadzjr's build thread!!!
Thread Starter
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just another Rockwell looser
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,042
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From: Cocoa, FL
i would of used the TRE's i had, but then since nobody makes a 1-1/8" thread tube adapter, i would have to find somone with lathe (or beef drill) to bore out the ends of my DOM so i could just cut the threaded ends of the tie rod off and put them in the DOM and weld them.......instead i just decide its only money and bought some heims with the 1" hole
evos will be used on my traction bars.....
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,277
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From: St George, SC I-95
What a waste. Those things are too cool. What if you built your traction bars so that you wouldnt have to change them when you 4link the rear?
rocks use TREs? or was the ones you had for a specific application? 1" bore is the beef so you should be fine.
rocks use TREs? or was the ones you had for a specific application? 1" bore is the beef so you should be fine.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, VA
Hey, Nick and I hand tapped those 3/4" threads on Pauls tubes. And when I did my D44, I drilled the knuckles out with a 1" bit by hand and welded in a 3/4" sleeve to remove all of the taper! So I know how it feels. After drilling the 1st one I thought my arms were going to fall off, then came the second hole....
For drilling your knuckles, you gotta do what ya gotta do, but when it comes time to thread the tube, I highly suggest chucking it up in a lathe and tapping it that way, unless your gonna cheat out and weld in the thread ends.....
For drilling your knuckles, you gotta do what ya gotta do, but when it comes time to thread the tube, I highly suggest chucking it up in a lathe and tapping it that way, unless your gonna cheat out and weld in the thread ends.....
Thread Starter
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just another Rockwell looser
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,042
Likes: 0
From: Cocoa, FL
ideally, they would be perfect for a radius arm setup on a full size 1 ton truck
i only had to drill out 1/2-3/4 of the knuckle.....the rest was already bigger than 1"
Thread Starter
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just another Rockwell looser
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,042
Likes: 0
From: Cocoa, FL
Hey, Nick and I hand tapped those 3/4" threads on Pauls tubes. And when I did my D44, I drilled the knuckles out with a 1" bit by hand and welded in a 3/4" sleeve to remove all of the taper! So I know how it feels. After drilling the 1st one I thought my arms were going to fall off, then came the second hole....:
send me a link to said sleeves......i didn't even think of that.......could of saved some money on heims.....oh well, to late now
and i only had to drill out about 3/16-1/8 of a inch out of the hole......everytime the drill would catch.......insta-snap-a-wrist
For drilling your knuckles, you gotta do what ya gotta do, but when it comes time to thread the tube, I highly suggest chucking it up in a lathe and tapping it that way, unless your gonna cheat out and weld in the thread ends.....
[/QUOTE]what size did you have to drill to before you tapped it for 3/4.....
im just going to say ta hell with it and just run tube inserts
i wish i had a lathe.....id make my own inserts........
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, VA
Not sure on the 1" stuff, but I got all of my 3/4" threaded inserts at Rod End Supply. I would think they can get them for the 1" stuff, just not sure.
As for the threading in the tube, no drilling. I just has the right size tube to be able to tap right into them. I got the tube from S&W racecars and told them what I was doing, as the bars were originally going to be my ladder bars, so they specd a 5/8"x3/4" rod end for their stuff and had the right tube on hand. The bars that are on my 150 are 1.25" chromo with the weld in inserts as I was short on time and just ordered them from S&W already cut to length and welded. I needed to quickly replace my previous DOM set that was bent and I originally built them.
As for the threading in the tube, no drilling. I just has the right size tube to be able to tap right into them. I got the tube from S&W racecars and told them what I was doing, as the bars were originally going to be my ladder bars, so they specd a 5/8"x3/4" rod end for their stuff and had the right tube on hand. The bars that are on my 150 are 1.25" chromo with the weld in inserts as I was short on time and just ordered them from S&W already cut to length and welded. I needed to quickly replace my previous DOM set that was bent and I originally built them.
Thread Starter
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just another Rockwell looser
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,042
Likes: 0
From: Cocoa, FL
Not sure on the 1" stuff, but I got all of my 3/4" threaded inserts at Rod End Supply. I would think they can get them for the 1" stuff, just not sure.
As for the threading in the tube, no drilling. I just has the right size tube to be able to tap right into them. I got the tube from S&W racecars and told them what I was doing, as the bars were originally going to be my ladder bars, so they specd a 5/8"x3/4" rod end for their stuff and had the right tube on hand. The bars that are on my 150 are 1.25" chromo with the weld in inserts as I was short on time and just ordered them from S&W already cut to length and welded. I needed to quickly replace my previous DOM set that was bent and I originally built them.
As for the threading in the tube, no drilling. I just has the right size tube to be able to tap right into them. I got the tube from S&W racecars and told them what I was doing, as the bars were originally going to be my ladder bars, so they specd a 5/8"x3/4" rod end for their stuff and had the right tube on hand. The bars that are on my 150 are 1.25" chromo with the weld in inserts as I was short on time and just ordered them from S&W already cut to length and welded. I needed to quickly replace my previous DOM set that was bent and I originally built them.
thats pretty smart
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, VA
What I was referring to before about using welded in threaded inserts was the for the linkage bars (i.e. tie rod and drag link) on my D44. Pauls we just threaded the tube. And when we finally get to SAS Nick#2's bronco, we will thread those tubes as well.
Thread Starter
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just another Rockwell looser
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,042
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From: Cocoa, FL
nooooooo. The taper was too wide on my d44 for a 3/4" bolt to fit right without some wiggle, so I drilled it to 1", then welded in a piece of thin wall 1" tube. After that was in place and ground flat (I left 1/4" on the top and bottom to act as a offset bushing), I drilled the insert to 3/4" to fit the bolt snug. With Pauls d60, he used the 5/8"x3/4" ends, so we drilled the knuckle out to 5/8" and there was almost no wiggle when the bolt went in (less of a taper I guess), so there was no need to drill it bigger for the welded in insert.
What I was referring to before about using welded in threaded inserts was the for the linkage bars (i.e. tie rod and drag link) on my D44. Pauls we just threaded the tube. And when we finally get to SAS Nick#2's bronco, we will thread those tubes as well.
What I was referring to before about using welded in threaded inserts was the for the linkage bars (i.e. tie rod and drag link) on my D44. Pauls we just threaded the tube. And when we finally get to SAS Nick#2's bronco, we will thread those tubes as well.
i drilled my knuckle out to 1" but prolly a little more than a 1/4 of the thickness of the knuckle (damn thick) is a little bigger than 1" b/c of the taper
i dont think its enought to really cause a problem
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, VA
As long as the bolt by itself doesn't wiggle more than a 1/16" , then you should be fine. just get a flat washer to place on either side of the knuckle like we did on Pauls. If you really want to feel safe, you can tack the washers in place so they make sure the bolt doesn't move. Just remember that any movement that is not intended by your steering movements will eventually wallow out the knuckle and lead to a wandering feeling when you are driving on the road, so the more you can ensure that the bolt going through the knuckle doesn't wiggle now, the better you will be with the bigger tires and more stress on the parts. Especially with the big tires and mud, just trying to turn will eventaully start to dig those grade 8 threads into that cast iron, hence the reason I ended up sleeving my D44.
Thread Starter
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just another Rockwell looser
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,042
Likes: 0
From: Cocoa, FL
As long as the bolt by itself doesn't wiggle more than a 1/16" , then you should be fine. just get a flat washer to place on either side of the knuckle like we did on Pauls. If you really want to feel safe, you can tack the washers in place so they make sure the bolt doesn't move. Just remember that any movement that is not intended by your steering movements will eventually wallow out the knuckle and lead to a wandering feeling when you are driving on the road, so the more you can ensure that the bolt going through the knuckle doesn't wiggle now, the better you will be with the bigger tires and more stress on the parts. Especially with the big tires and mud, just trying to turn will eventaully start to dig those grade 8 threads into that cast iron, hence the reason I ended up sleeving my D44.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, VA
I keep forgetting that you are running rocks. I know the D44 knuckle is about 1" think and the D60 is about 1.25-1.5", so your rocks gotta be like 2" thick or more.
Thread Starter
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just another Rockwell looser
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,042
Likes: 0
From: Cocoa, FL
yeah, but i think im just going to weld a flat plate of like 1/4" on the bottom of the knuckle, then just drill through it.......cant hurt...