When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm going to do a test on my own ONLY because this thread has gotten so "he said/she said" and because I actually have an issue with airflow (as far as I can tell).
It's not hard to do. I will spend 10 minutes tomorrow and take the 6637 off of my truck and run it down the road.
Some of you may have seen me type about (as opposed to hearing my talk about ) my boost issues and the copious amount of black smoke that DOES NOT CLEAR UP no matter what RPM or boost.....and speaking of boost, an instantaneous spike to 25 PSI and then the needle stops so fast you'd think it would snap off. Boost WILL NOT go higher than 25 PSI and the black smoke keeps-a-rollin'.
There are many folks on here running far more power than I am and far more boost with more modifications but they DON'T have an issue with airflow with the 6637. If for some reason, the air filter doesn't flow what we think it does (or SHOULD due to the sheer amount of surface area), and I actually have enough restriction to cause a "choke" affect, then I will do something different.
I'm not looking for a miracle (or even a change) since the 6637 is probably good for far more air than I need, but this discussion has got me thinking about trying it just for the heck of it...not that it's hard to do.
All I've done is to quote data from manufactures web sites. Yes, you can exceed manufactures ratings and specifications, but you do so at your own risk. I tow heavier than my truck is rated for, and I'm on my third set of carrier bearings including a complete diff rebuild as the result of that!
I don't care what you do to your truck, but I do think that new users deserve a fair and balanced answer when they log on to FTE and ask about what's the best air filter for their truck, and then immediately get the 6637 jammed down their throat!
///SNIP///
Gene, take a look at Mech's avatar. I would submit that there isn't a tougher thing you can do to a truck over and over again. Nobody is getting the 6637 "shoved down their throats". Folks ask for intake options, and the most common offered are the 6637, Ford AIS, and AFE. There are a few others, but when this comes up, I usually see these the most. Take your pick. Some folks are looking for an economical solution, which this one is. Others are looking for better performance and something quieter than open element intakes. Depends on the desired goal.
Oh and BTW, you might also go peruse the Cummins boards because those guys run a very similar filter. It's roughly the same dimensions, but fits their application. I believe they call it the BHAF, "Big Honkin' Air Filter". Try Googling "Cummins BHAF". If you combine CTD drivers and PSD drivers with these filters, there is a pretty large mass of folks out there without issues. Two or three known issues out of that many is statistically insignificant.
Like you said earlier, switching to the AFE won't make a dang bit of difference.
What I said was i didnt want to buy it and have it not do a dang bit of diffrence. No offense Scott but I just want numbers(CFM specifically) of what works and what dosn't. honestly thats the reason why I posted it in the 99+ 7.3 forum. These guys are great at diggin up info and they have the most knowledge of what it takes to make big hp#'s. CFM is what its all about. What flows the most but offers the most protection with out affecting flow. My turbo draws alot of air, we all know that. How much it draws is left to be figured out but I have BDP to consult about that. I am gonna give Tim's idea a shot, se if the diesel shop owner will bite. If my research only shows that a new intake gained me 5hp, well 5hp is 5hp. Gotta take hp were ever I can get it, especially come dyno day at BD Power
I just can't help but find this whole thread very entertaining.
Gene, you let a little blood out of the sacred cow, and now your feet are going to get held to the fire. Funny, I been there myself a time or two. Being critical of the 6637 around here makes you as popular as harpooning Shamu at sea world.
If horsepower is all you really care about, be a real man, throw all of the filters away and run a completely open intake, or maybe a screen to keep the big chunks out.
If perhaps on the off chance you care about filtration, the dyno may not be the defining measure of your filter.
I for one care about filtration first, flow second. So I bought an intake with the best filter for removing dirt. Kinda the point of the filter, to my way of thinking.
How many of us really have an engine that can flow more than about 750 cfm anyway? Personally I care a lot more about getting to 500,000 miles than having the freest flowing filter.
Clux, your killing me! haha harpooning shamu at sea world? LMFAO!
Back to the filter deal. I just want a filter that will be the most efficent, offer the most power while still being a filter. I was just intrested in knowing if the 6637 is restrictive like this guy thinks. Seems others on here feel the same way. Im all about maximum power through being efficent.
clux, I give Gene credit for at least trying to put some science behind what he says. The problem I have is that reality doesn't seem to fit what he's claiming. This "425 cfm" figure keeps getting thrown around, and I think the guys that are going to hit the dyno are right on. Let's see what we see. I know there was one figure thrown out there by someone that there was a 25 HP increase when ditching the 6637. That just doesn't fit the "common sense-O-meter". I think something was up. Going from stock to a high performance intake is even pushing the BS flag up the pole a bit with that kind of increase. Heck, reading some of the marketing claims out there, we should be able to double the HP of our vehicles with bolt-ons.
I'll patiently await some data from the dynos, with repetative runs to eliminate questions.
clux, I give Gene credit for at least trying to put some science behind what he says. The problem I have is that reality doesn't seem to fit what he's claiming. This "425 cfm" figure keeps getting thrown around, and I think the guys that are going to hit the dyno are right on. Let's see what we see. I know there was one figure thrown out there by someone that there was a 25 HP increase when ditching the 6637. That just doesn't fit the "common sense-O-meter". I think something was up. Going from stock to a high performance intake is even pushing the BS flag up the pole a bit with that kind of increase. Heck, reading some of the marketing claims out there, we should be able to double the HP of our vehicles with bolt-ons.
I'll patiently await some data from the dynos, with repetative runs to eliminate questions.
Sure, but I'm just not aware of how the dyno can tell what happens to filtration efficiency at high flow rates. I've always read that blowing out an air filter with compressed air is a bad idea because it results in small tears in the filter that really impair the filter's ability to "filter" efficiently. I in fact have a friend who got to spend around $40,000 twice in about 18 months to rebuild his bulldozer's engine because his (very conscientious) hired man was (unknown to him) blowing out the filters daily. Seems to me that severely exceeding a filter's rated flow could result in the same kind of problem. I think the manufacturer has rated that filter at 425 for a reason, may not necessarily be flow.
At any rate, you won't ever catch an open element filter on my engines. But that's a whole other argument.
I can tell you that my turbo is capable of over 1000 cfm as a consevative number. Cleans up a set of 530 hybrid injectors pretty well. I think the filter flows enough for me. Watch the end of this video. http://www.sledpullmotorsports.com/f...treet_2007.wmv
I've tried the AFE I, Green, K&N and 6637. Haven't tried the AFE II. Gained 5lbs of boost with the 6637 over all the others. No noticable difference with no filter. Yes I tried it.