When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I been watching this video and reading through the thread, however mine seems to be doing the oppsite, it will freez people out of the cab but looks to be an "always on" state, no matter if I cycle from MAX AC to off the compressor still runs.
I do have a single 1/4" M6 flat washer behind the compressor clutch hub wheel which in theory should give that 0.25 gap but who knows...any suggestions? I don't mind the ice cold AC but would like to be able to shut off the compressor when I want to...should I add more?
Alls I need to know is where to pick up some thinner spacers. My gap is about .045 when I take the one spacer out it is .01 Need to find thinner spacers.
I also watched the youtube video with the guy engaging his compressor with the key in the on position so he can remove the bolt. My 2002 V10 is like others mentioned here, with the key in the on position and truck off the clutch will not engage when you turn the switch to ac. Truck must be running. Dunno how that guy got his to engage.
Just need some thinner spacers if someone know an easy place to pick some up without researching.
Well as I've read this entire thread I really need help. I always wondered about my air gap and am really confused but my story is weird. Well let me first start off with I have replaced my compressor my drier bottle my blend door actuator my vacuum pump my condenser and my evaporator. I have a 2000 Ford F-350 super duty 7.3 2wd. And my ac is still blowing warm air. Before I replaced everything it would blow cold but not ice cold when I'm on the hwy. but then warm when in traffic and I took it to a mechanic and he said he could fix it for 250. Then the 250 went up to 800 when they rang up my bill only to have the same problem. Then 2 days later I lost all my freon and am now lost for words. My question is can someone help me please. Or if I have a new compressor is it possible to have air gap. I'm willing to give anything a try except another 800 dollars. Oh also replaced my orifice tube also.
I'll share my experiences here and ask some questions too. 2002 F250 v10....
I was having the intermittent on/off problem with my AC. At first, it acted like a bad fan clutch, then became more random, and finally on a long trip today started the pattern of no ac at highway speeds and cooling when slowing down for small towns. Pressures are good and when the compressor does engage, it blows cold. Per the FAQ in the HVAC forum, that's a classic sign of a worn clutch plate.
So I decided to try this out. The compressor on this model is not as conveniently located. It is on the passenger side, bottom. It's not too bad though. Have to get on your back but there is room to reach up in there and get to the bolt and remove the plate. As stated earlier in this thread, though, this model won't engage the clutch by just putting the key to "on." Truck has to be running since the PCM is what grounds that relay. So those of you wondering why that part of SpringerPop's instructions don't work exactly for you, that's why. Not sure if they changed that back in the later models, but I know that a lot of things in the 02-03s act that way that didn't before. So either go get that clutch plate removal tool or pinch the clutch and pulley with some channel locks an you can get the bolt off. That's not usually a good idea, but the bolt is not very tight, so you don't have to hold the pliers very tight and booger anything up.
My gap was at around .040. Only one shim in there and without it, it is a 0 gap. So I have to have something in there. Nothing open that had the shims in stock, so I ground the existing shim down a little at a time. Ran out of daylight and just went with what I had by then. Gap is now at about .030-.031. I see a significant difference in the performance of the AC and clutch, however, it was dark and the AC wouldn't have to work as hard, so I won't know for sure until I can drive it in the sun again. Still some obvious slipping of the clutch. I had cold air on the highway, but when I slowed down and exited for home, the air turned ice cold. Much colder than I ever remember it being. So it seems to me that adjusting this air gap is going to be the trick, just need to get it down to .020.
Now, the clutch plate is very worn. There are still ridges on it, but you can see the rivets. I worry that those are going to let go and the plate will crater and take something else out. Is just replacing that plate a good idea? I am unsure if it would have mated to that corresponding part in the clutch and a new plate would not engage properly. Is that valid or will a new plate mate just fine? The compressor is running nice and quiet. No grinding bearing noise or anything, so a new plate would be a nice cheap fix. Or maybe those aren't really rivets and they are supposed to be exposed like that? I didn't take a pic, but I am sure you guys know what I am talking about there.
I guess a more simple version of my long-winded question there is how far do you let those plates wear before replacing them?
So that's my input/experience and another +1 thanks for SpringerPop and his instructions on this fix.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.