Took off the blower motor resistor today after getting a new one along with a new harness. Here's what it looked like after 9 years. Granted it's been 9 years but I'm willing to bet it didn't recently start getting this bad. It has never been removed, I'm really surprised there isn't some kind of recall on this. The connector is either melted to the plug or the contacts became so corroded that they are fused together. I tried prying it apart with a screwdriver, busting it lose in the vise, everything....... just because I wanted to see it's condition. No way. It never came off.

 

That is amazing! Wow...

Thanks JJFIVEOH....reps given!


biz

 

Did replacing it fix the problem?

Pop

 

Unfortunately, no it didn't fix the problem. Before I replaced it my first 2 settings didn't blow any air at all. 3 and 4 worked like they should. After replacing it 1-3 all blow low and 4 blows full blast. I think my next step is going to be the switch, I just pulled it out. I'm wondering if the resistor shorted out and may have done some damage to the switch? I'm not sure. But I can't think of anything else that might be wrong. I would think if the blower motor itself is bad that it wouldn't work at all.

Either way, it's still worth checking and replacing if necessary. The resistor was cheap and fairly easy to replace. Who knows, it might save a switch..... that's yet to be determined in my case haha.

 

Hold that thought. I just noticed that the replacement harness I got along with it DOES NOT match up with the OEM part. Even though the replacement harness have the exact same 4 colored wires they are not in the same position. That might be OK if the aftermarket resistor had a different design but from what I can tell they are identical. Something I should have checked before hand, guess I shouldn't assume they would color match them correctly.

 

Success! The orange and black wires are not matched up to the OEM parts. The BWD harness is color coded the same however the wires are not in the same location. The orange and black in my case needed to be swapped. I just had to take the tiny screwdriver and disconnect the wires from the plug and switch them. Now all 4 speeds work as they should. So my problem was the corroded resistor. Since I've never had mine off before and it looked like that, I would highly recommend that everybody else at least check theirs if it's an older truck. Sorry I didn't have any final pics. But here's a couple I took during the process.

 

Ok I will try to make this a short story but it wont be easy! I have had many problems with being able to stay cool in my 99 F250SD! The air has been on the fritz for the last couple years and wouldnt seem to cool the truck off totally and the last year and a half would only blow hot air in the summer. Then to top it off and add insult to injury 2 of the four windows ( I have a crew cab) stopped working. I resigned to not paying hundreds if not thousands (getting ripped off) to have the ac system repaired/replaced so I replaced the motors in the 2 windows so I could atleast cool off with the fresh air (that was 90-100 degrees) So I just got back in the house after reading this forum and after the 5 minutes that it took me to remove the 1 shim , it only had 1 shim, and put it back together. I now have fridgid air blowing once again from the ac!!!


Thank You SpringerPop!!!!!

 

A worn air gap isn't always the cause of "no A/C", but it seems to be the most common.

Glad you were able to get it running again!

Pop

 

ok we have eliminated several things..and we know one thing

we know there is no voltage at the compressor, actuator switch and the switch near the high pressure port.

we changed out the climate control system with another and still no a/c power.

i tried tapping the clutch plate..nothing.(i only hit this plate softly, and rotated it with no luck)

thanks to a lazy mechanic he concluded it was the PCM ..we changed it out with no power at the a/c.

all fuses are good.

what next?

 

subscribing

 

Do you need an electrical diagram?

Pop

 

editing...

 

On the 04 Expedition, the compressor clutch is enabled as follows:


If manual controls: CJB F13 via MODE switch via high pressure switch via thermostatic expansion valve switch to the PCM input pin 41 (AC request). Note: Late model production reverses the last several components - see diagrams.

If EATC, it's the same except no MODE switch.

PCM programming then enables or disables the clutch via the clutch relay.

 

Awesome fix guys! Thanks for saving me God know how much if I was to take my 01 F250 to the dealer for the repair.

You guys rock! It is so nice to have AC again...

 

Very good info.