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I checked mine and it has an odd behavior. At idle, A/C on, the clutch engages and disengages every 3 seconds. The gap is about right, but I went ahead and removed the only shim. It did the same thing, but the clutch plate was too close and rubbing slightly even when disengaged, so I put the shim back on. The gap is about .030".
Any ideas what would make the clutch engage/disengage constantly like that?
Find someone with guages and get the pressures checked first.
If the pressures are in the ballpark, verify the high and low switches are operating at about the right pressures.
Remember that you can get short-cycling with both too little AND too much refrigerant.
A tip:
There are a LOT of people with old R-12 gauges. Sometimes you'll see them at garage sales. Since pressures are pressures, the gauges are still serviceable. The problem is with the hose fittings, which only fit the old Schrader valve size.
There are adapters available! However, if you get some adapters and decide to use an old manifold and gauges, be sure to flush out any old refrigeration oil residue, as the old oil is NOT compatible with R-134a refrigerant, and causes corrosive reactions in the system.
I have a 3 month old 2011 F350. My a/c cycles on/off every 15-20 seconds. This occurs even if I have the settings on max cold, 60 degrees. The dealership has claimed to have checked everything, and further claims that this behavior is normal. Besides the annoying hiss that occurs when the freon is being repressurized through the expansion valve, I don't think that the ac cools as well as it should.
It all depends on the operating conditions. Under mild conditions, it might do what you described. If it's very hot and you're pulling a load from the system, then it might stay energized all the time.
So glad I found this...just wish I had looked sooner. I went without A/C all summer and fixed this in about ten minutes las week. Of course now I really won't need it. Can't wait until Spring 2012!
My A/C only seems to get cool when I'm driving at higher speeds or if I've had the truck running for a decent amount of time. I had the system recharged a few months ago because the A/C didn't work at all (I bought the truck used). Anyhow, is this shim scenario a possible culprit?
The shim scenario only works if the compressor does not come on. (I think) If you turn on the AC and the compressor engages, you probably have another issue.
The shim scenario only works if the compressor does not come on. (I think) If you turn on the AC and the compressor engages, you probably have another issue.
Not necessarily true. Here is the link that is from page 3 of this thread. It gives the conditions...etc.
Just an update on cost information for a replacement clutch. You can now purchase just the clutch itself directly from Tousley Ford for only about $34, and this is for a brand new Ford Motorcraft part. They also will sell the bearing for the pulley if you're having a bearing issue.
Given the 220K miles I have on my system, I just went ahead and purchased a new clutch and complete pulley from Tousley for $106 plus S&H. I'll take my used parts, repack the bearing on the pulley, and set them aside as an emergency replacement for either my truck, my son's F250, or my Excursion.
I came across this thread because it was referenced a couple of times while I was searching for a cause of a very similar problem. Thank for a solution! I can't say for certain it has fixed my problem of the AC cutting out at idle and back on again once I give it throttle because I haven't driven it long enough to find out. But mine was at around .062" well off the recommended specs. There happened to be only one shim/washer in my assembly and by coincidence it was just as thick as I needed to adjust it to. It now sits at about .022".
Now if I can just figure out why my AC and vent stopped blowing on the first 2 settings I'll be alright. Which was the second reason I came here today.
Thank you for this solution! And thanks for the post from F250_ about a replacement. Had no idea they were that inexpensive.
There's a fan speed resistor under the hood, mounted on the heater-A/C box that likely has gone open. It's pretty common, and the replacement part is pretty cheap, too!
Sorry I don't have pictures, but SOMEBODY here has some!
There's a fan speed resistor under the hood, mounted on the heater-A/C box that likely has gone open. It's pretty common, and the replacement part is pretty cheap, too!
Sorry I don't have pictures, but SOMEBODY here has some!
Pop
Funny you mention that. I just came in from checking that on my truck not 30 minutes ago. I couldn't get it off because the plug is solidly on there, I wouldn't be surprised if it has melted. With all the rain we've had the mosquitoes were out in full force and I wasn't going to get eaten alive. The resistor and springs are completely corroded. I cannot believe it worked this long. I'm pretty sure these are local so tomorrow I'm going to pick up a new one as well as a new connector and I will post pics of the old one. I just can't see how this would even be safe. It's so easy to take off just two 8mm bolts, it wouldn't hurt for everybody to check theirs just in case. Looks like the resistor and separate harness are between $35-$45.
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