AC problems
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
as a note my clutch does not seem to engage unless running
also clutch did not cycle while testing.
Your pressures appear to be close to normal. Have you checked the following:
1. Evaporator inlet and outlet temps (use the digital method - your fingertip).
2. Proper operation of the temperature blend door including that it fully closes off the heater core route.
3. Is there ANY cooling evident in the outlet air?
4. Difference between front and rear?
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
AC not blowing cold
1. Evaporator inlet and outlet temps (use the digital method - your fingertip). both warm if I am checking correctly
2. Proper operation of the temperature blend door including that it fully closes off the heater core route. What is the best way to check?
3. Is there ANY cooling evident in the outlet air?
4. Difference between front and rear? I checked today while in the 90's and found in 70's front and 60's in rear vents (with windows closed and set to max ac)
Hooked up gauges and showing low side 47 and high at 230 in 95 degree phoenix heat
Also, does seem to cool better when driving at freeway speed vs in town .
Thanks !!!!
2. Proper operation of the temperature blend door including that it fully closes off the heater core route. What is the best way to check?
3. Is there ANY cooling evident in the outlet air?
4. Difference between front and rear? I checked today while in the 90's and found in 70's front and 60's in rear vents (with windows closed and set to max ac)
Hooked up gauges and showing low side 47 and high at 230 in 95 degree phoenix heat
Also, does seem to cool better when driving at freeway speed vs in town .
Thanks !!!!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
I find that simply clamping off one of the heater hoses works good for eliminating the heater loop from the equation. A pair of vicegrips with the jaws padded by a couple of carpenter's shims does the job.
When checking the inlet temp of the evaporator, you need to be sure you're checking after the orifice tube which is usually at a joint in the tubing. Off hand, I don't know where it is on your truck so check as close to the firewall as possible.
When checking the inlet temp of the evaporator, you need to be sure you're checking after the orifice tube which is usually at a joint in the tubing. Off hand, I don't know where it is on your truck so check as close to the firewall as possible.
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
AC not blowing cold
Ran a test today and found with just the front ac on that the low pressure is about 20 and the high about 180 at idle with ambient temp of 101 degrees also now the compressor is cycling. The evaporator inlet and outlet are cold and warm fast when the compressor cycles off.
Then when turned on the rear ac the numbers go back to low 48 and high 230 and the evaporator lines are not as cold.
Hope this added info helps diagnose my issue.
Thanks Again
Then when turned on the rear ac the numbers go back to low 48 and high 230 and the evaporator lines are not as cold.
Hope this added info helps diagnose my issue.
Thanks Again
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
AC not blowing cold
So is it normal for the low and high side numbers to differ when turning on the rear a/c in excursion ??? low 23 high 180 at idle with ambient temp of 101 (just front air on)
vs
low 48 high 230 at idle with ambient temp of 101 (with rear air turned on)
Last edited by landk00; Jun 7, 2015 at 02:29 PM. Reason: typo
New User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
air gap check was the fix for me...
2000 F250 SD...A/C compressor not kicking on. Tap with hammer did the trick. Took off cltch plate..worn to rivets and then some. Removed the one spacer and good to go at present. RockAuto has new coil/pulley/plate for $47.00 + S/H so will replace. Presume replacing the pulley which has the face the clutch plate clamps to as the only way to go if plate is as worn as mine.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 19,760
Likes: 1,079
From: St Louis
Usually, you can replace just the clutch hub if the oil and pulley bearings are still good. A Motorcraft YB-3020, the most common one, is $44 on Amazon. A hardware pack of new shims, bolt, and other clutch hardware parts is $2 at Autozone.
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
a/c rear vents colder than front ??? - sweating in Arizona
Any assistance on what to check when my front a/c vents are at least 10 degrees warmer than the rear. These 110's degree temps are killing us and summer has just begun.Thanks!!!
Cross-Country
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
a/c rear vents colder than front ??? - sweating in Arizona
Thanks for reply. What is the best way to check the blend door. I took offer the motor and it rotates 90 degrees, I also took off the cover behind the glove box and can see it rotating. Also, what is the recommended way to check to refrigerant charge level? My numbers very when rear a/c is turned on:
low 23 high 180 at idle with ambient temp of 101 (just front air on)
vs
low 48 high 230 at idle with ambient temp of 101 (with rear air turned on)
low 23 high 180 at idle with ambient temp of 101 (just front air on)
vs
low 48 high 230 at idle with ambient temp of 101 (with rear air turned on)