AC problems
That's the beauty of this forum. Since we all drive what is basically the same truck, if one of us ever sees and solves a problem, it's just a matter of time before we each are going to see the same one, and we'll have a fix waiting for us when it happens.
Thanks for the follow-up report.
Pop
Thanks for the follow-up report.
Pop
Great thread!!!
I was having the same issue; A/C would work great and then stop. Sometimes if I was driving long enough, I could shut off the A/C and turn it back on about 15-20 minutes later and it would work great again but for a short time. I was thinking electrical but not the clutch. I changed both pressure switches, being a lazy parts changer, and it didn't help things.
I figured the pressure was fine (Bad to assume... but I don't own gauges yet) because I didn't have an issue with the compressor cycling on and off and the system hasn't been opened up. As well, I had plenty of condensation on the hose and line going to/from the accumulator/dryer. Didn't seem like other leaky system symptoms I saw before. After a quick tap this afternoon my compressor worked again! Outstanding info!
I'll be pulling the bolt out tomorrow. Hopefully It won't rain!
FTE ROCKS!!!
I was having the same issue; A/C would work great and then stop. Sometimes if I was driving long enough, I could shut off the A/C and turn it back on about 15-20 minutes later and it would work great again but for a short time. I was thinking electrical but not the clutch. I changed both pressure switches, being a lazy parts changer, and it didn't help things.
I figured the pressure was fine (Bad to assume... but I don't own gauges yet) because I didn't have an issue with the compressor cycling on and off and the system hasn't been opened up. As well, I had plenty of condensation on the hose and line going to/from the accumulator/dryer. Didn't seem like other leaky system symptoms I saw before. After a quick tap this afternoon my compressor worked again! Outstanding info!
I'll be pulling the bolt out tomorrow. Hopefully It won't rain!
FTE ROCKS!!!
See? One of us sees it, and eventually we all probably will.
Congratulations on the fix!
What did we do before the internet???

WE PAID THE DEALERSHIP TO MIS-DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM AND THROW HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS OF PARTS AT IT!!!
Pop
Congratulations on the fix!
What did we do before the internet???

WE PAID THE DEALERSHIP TO MIS-DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM AND THROW HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS OF PARTS AT IT!!!
Pop
I love this site!

Today I had to explain to my 5 year old daughter that we didn't have computers when I was a kid; her jaw dropped then she asked if there were restaurants back then... Jeez, I haven't looked at book in a library in quite some time. I've used the computers though.
Ya know what, if I had a lift, a tire machine and a tranny guy in my garage I'd never pay anyone to touch my vehicles!!! BTW, I guess we all know why it's far more accurate to call those places "stealerships"!
That sounds like the procedure I've been reading about and have saved under my AC mods bookmarks
It's too dark for me to do it now or look at the set up.
From your description, here's the way I see the shim, gap bolt situation.
The bolt actually cinches the clutch halves together.
The spacers keep that space from getting too small as the bolt is snugged.
The more spacers, the larger the air gap.
As the clutch wears, the air gap of course increases.
The clutch only has so much effective throw, so when the gap gets too large it doesn't work well any longer.
To compensate for that increased air gap, remove shims and snugging the bolt gets it back to the 20-25 thou spec.
Am I right?
My system isn't charged yet, and I won't be able to/want to engage the clutch with the truck running. I have to do it engine stopped and I'll have to hotwire the clutch to check it's throw. Ground to one contact on the compressor clutch connector and 12V on the other should engage and disengage the clutch so I can see where this air gap actually is.
It'll be nice to do this before taking it in for a charge and won't have to worry about that as the rest of the AC system gets sorted out and charged.
It's too dark for me to do it now or look at the set up.From your description, here's the way I see the shim, gap bolt situation.
The bolt actually cinches the clutch halves together.
The spacers keep that space from getting too small as the bolt is snugged.
The more spacers, the larger the air gap.
As the clutch wears, the air gap of course increases.
The clutch only has so much effective throw, so when the gap gets too large it doesn't work well any longer.
To compensate for that increased air gap, remove shims and snugging the bolt gets it back to the 20-25 thou spec.
Am I right?
My system isn't charged yet, and I won't be able to/want to engage the clutch with the truck running. I have to do it engine stopped and I'll have to hotwire the clutch to check it's throw. Ground to one contact on the compressor clutch connector and 12V on the other should engage and disengage the clutch so I can see where this air gap actually is.
It'll be nice to do this before taking it in for a charge and won't have to worry about that as the rest of the AC system gets sorted out and charged.
I am so going to try this. My AC has been running cold and then warm for months. This totally sound like the fix, hopefully. I was going to start swapping out switches.
Thank goodness I read this first. I will post my findings tomorrow.
Thank goodness I read this first. I will post my findings tomorrow.
This is a GREAT thread! I plan to check mine the next time I drive the truck...because it blows cold, then about 45 or 60 minutes later...it goes warm. So...I have to plan on driving it that long...so that I can test. I'll report back...
Thanks again!
biz
Thanks again!
biz








