Those numbers don't make sense. I'm at 0-60 in about 10 seconds and 1/4 mile in 16.8. 0-60 in 7 seconds should be 14-15 second 1/4 mile territory.

 

Silver-dont forget about traction problems

 

oh and does anybody have a pic of the dual quad intake from clifford installed on an engine?

 

The quarter is slow because of my gear ratios in the np435 and rear end. I launch at 2500 in second (12" inch wide tire helps), then shift to third at 4800, But once I hit fourth its all over for acceleration. I am planning on getting a 3.55 gear to replace my 3.08. This will restore the overall ratio to almost what it was with the smaller, stock, tires. I might just get a five speed though. Heay rot I am not trying to steal this thread from you. You should really think about gear ratios in the tranny and rear. The rear end is obvious, but if your losing 2500 rpm between shifts it will be horrible for any kind of hard core driving that you might do. I realize that you might want all low end torque but with as much as you are expecting to have, a super low granny first gear might not be the way to go. just something to think about if you haven't allready. Maybe I just typed all of this and remembered that you said at the first you will be using a 5 speed. Oh well I am not willing to use the backspace key for that long.

 

Our axle ratios are the same and our tire heights aren't that different. There is something else very wrong with your truck if those are the numbers you have actually measured. Did those numbers come from the G-Tech? If so that explains the discrepancy. If I'm at 63 mph at the 1/8 mile and you are hitting 60 3 seconds before I am you should be a lot quicker than 17.4.

 

peppermint, your input is much appriciated and well accepted; as is yours Havi. The truck will have a ZF S5-42 5 speed manual trans, Borg Warner 1356 Transfer case, 3.73 gears with limited slip units front and rear, and 33x12.5xR15 Baja Claws. I can't find the gear ratio for the ZF or 1356(just searched for 45 minutes, used to have that information, as well as a bunch of other info, but my other computer crashed). Heres a little tech question for some of y'all. Lets say I don't bore the block but maybe .030" over, instead of .060" over, but get it decked .060" down, and get some taller pistons, would that raise my compression ratio considerably? I want to be able to run 87 octane pump gas. Stock CR is 8:1 I believe, and I'm shooting for something in the 9.5:1 to 10:1 range. First off, is this possible, and second, what would it take to raise the CR that much? I am thinking that if the cylinder is 4.03" instead of 4.06", with the stock stroke and .060" shaved off the top, as well as some slightly taller pistons, it would have to make higher compression than stock.

 

This just keeps getting better. A naturally aspirated, 500 ft-lb 300 on 87 octane fuel. Sorry, couldn't resist. As a general rule you have to remove about 15 cc compressed volume to acheive a 1 point compression increase. I don't have a calculator handy, but I think that requires decking the block about 0.070. I know you don't want my input, but I really am just trying to help you keep the thing together whether it makes the power you want or not. Here is a real good piece of advice: IT IS FOOLISH TO GENERATE A HIGHER COMPRESSION RATIO BY EXCESSIVELY MACHINING THE BLOCK OR HEAD WHEN YOU COULD GET IT MUCH MORE EASILY AND RELIABLY BY PURCHASING THE PROPER CUSTOM PISTON THAT YOU NEED ANYWAY! There is no point in cutting valuable metal out of the engine when you don't have to, especially when that metal will help your engine make more reliable power if it is left where it's at. Don't bore or mill anything any more than you have to in order to get a good sealing surface. If you must use an off the shelf piston (which you shouldn't), get a flat top piston for a HD truck engine. These pistons typically have a a compression height around 1.55" which will allow you to either run a slightly longer rod or a stroker crank or both. You could actually justify a stroker for this build up, so why not. If you do a search you will probably find lots of good info about the topic. One of my personal curiosities has been sleeving the 300 block with 400 SBC sleeves to allow a 4.155" bore. IF that can be proven doable it should be possible to get the 300 up to 351 cubes which will really confuse everybody when you tell them what you are running. I have also considered a custom tall deck block, but that is probably a bit far fetched and would be a definite liability at high outputs.

 

HAHAHA 351 6 eh? Thatd be ausome, cept for the flow restrictions on the head, TQ wise though... MMMMM

 

i like the idea of a 351-6...if i find another 300 ill try that..and if it works ill put it in my truck and then rebuild the old one...why use 87 octane? might as well use 93 for better performance anyhow

 

Silver Streak, that is the kind of stuff I need to hear. I have quite a bit of engine building knowledge, but not much custom engine building knowledge. Here's the thing, if I am going to do this, I want to do it right. I really don't want to stroke this engine, as it is already a stroked engine. I don't want to sleeve the block, and after seriously thinking about what optikal said, I don't want to bore it too much either.Custom pistons are probably going to have to be used. Tell me if I'm on the right track here. If I have the cylinders bored to around 4.03" (I will probably have to get them bored .030" over to get them up to snuff) leave the stroke 3.98", use forged stock style con rods, I would either have to find, or have pistons made that will have the right pin diameter, piston diameter, stroke height and compression height, right? now aside from tearing my engine down and mic measuring everything, how would I find those numbers? Sometimes I think I'm getting in too deep, as this is my first custom engine build... sometimes I wonder why I don't just get a 351 and do a mild build on it instead. Those are the times I just have to hit myself and say, don't be such a wussy conformist type.

As far as cooling goes, if I can't find a high volume water pump, I did find a part called a Flow Kooler water pump impeller disc on Summit. It says that it improves cooling flow by 60%. In the magazine it's on pg. 178, part number (for small block Ford) is BRA-3875-03. I don't know if it works, but its only $6, so it couldn't hurt to try it.

 

hell for $6 if try it as well...as long as it dont fly apart.

i think 352 pistions are a workable swap for a 300 to yield more compression. not exactly sure, but a quick search on f0rd sixzors should yield the results ur looking for.

ill email u more if u'd like.

 

right on, thanks.

 

I saw an old kw sitting in someones yard, weeds up to the doors, I wonder if they would part with the turbo for cheap. all this talk makes me want to build a hot 6 too.

 

The little impeller backer plate from Flow Kooler does work... but if you buy a new water pump they'll already have a backer plate installed. The water pump isn't the weak link in the cooling chain for the 300... it's the radiator. Get a "with A/C" radiator made for a van and that'll give you plenty of cooling. If you're thinking about doing a turbo the required add-on would be a nice fat oil cooler and a high volume oil pump.

 

I would seriously consider the Evans cooling system for a serious build. The impeller on my water pump was cast iron which is very difficult to rivet the impeller disc to. The Evans system replaces the existing coolant with more modern (and expensive) technologoy and will work wonders.

Ford stopped using the small Windsor pins a long time ago, maybe late 60's/early 70's. For the kind of power you want you will probably be going with a bushed floating pin anyway, so you'll have some leeway with what you do.

High volume oil pumps are not all that great unless you want to run loose bearing clearances. Otherwise you are using power that could be turning the wheels to pump oil that isn't needed. The 300 does have a lot of bearings, but they are all fairly small.