i saw some whitefaced gauges for our 73-79 ford trucks and broncos...same as stock but they are white...eBay has a couple different sets of them....i am gonna take my gauge panel and gauges out and fill the hole with metal and use digital gauges

 

in fact it will be kinda like this but digital http://truckinweb.com/brandpages/for...976_ford_f100/

my truck will be similar too but with a C-notch and 22s dropped to the rockers with 'bags and "Midnight Blue Metallic"

 

digital gauges are cool, but nothing screams classic performance like good, traditional gauges, just my opinion...

(the gauges sitting on my bench were stolen from a 60's dump truck, tach tops out at 4000 rpm's... vrooom vrooom)

 

My Clifford water heated/cooled manifold came with one tapped port for vacuum. The port is located on the side and middle of the manifold. I added a tee and run my brake booster and heater control from this port. I run my dist and pcv valve off the carb. As for a 1985 E150 smog pump, the stock motor runs a V belt.

 

My Clifford water heated/cooled manifold has one vacuum port that I run my brake booster and the heater control from. I added a tee to this port. The carb has ports that are hooked to my pcv valve and dist. vacuum. A 1985 E150 300I6 has a v belt that runs the smog pump.

 

Sorry guys, looks like my path is screwed.......

 

Before u go ape **** and wig out like u did last time...why are u using only clifford pieces? IMO, and from a lot of others, they are sub par for quality and customer service. they also like to blow smoke up peoples asses and claim substantial gains...which no one has seemed to prove.

u can get a complete rebuild kit from northern parts for around $350...quality stuff and good place to deal with.

and why are u still going with a .060 overbore? ur not going to accomplish anything with that much over bore. just bore over enough to clean up the cylinder walls and life is good.

i didnt catch what cam u are going to use...

u can get an electric fan from a taurus with a 3.8 cheap ($30 or less) from the junkyard and a large case 3G from the same car cheap ($20) and ur set. they put out between 150-165A at 2,000 rpm and can be easily rebuild to put out 200A+...why pay for a name...save the $$ and use it elsewhere in ur build.

surf fordsix forums and check out the many head porting threads...u will find all u need there to make a good flowing 300 head without sacrificing low end torque.

u can get a modine raduator from autozoo (special order) for around $200 and its a quality unit.

id opt for hedmen or hooker headers and have them ceramic coated...

its up to u to stay EFI or carb...but an offy 4 bbl intake and 500 CFM carb would be sufficent if ur going carb.

lastly, a duraspark igintion with a good coil and the like is the hot ticket for the carb 300. while ur at it add a power steering cooler, oil cooler and ur set.

what i suggested would save u a lot of $$ and probaly be just as good or better than the name brand components u listed.

 

The clifford numbers of 60% gain, from 1 of their techs on the phone, is with a rebuild adhering to their specs of decking the block, and rebuilding the motor with their intake and their headers as well, basically, if you buy every one of their parts you will gain 60% power. Theres not going to be that much else to do. Your rockers are cool, but you might run into some issues running a higher than stock lift with a higher that stock lift cam, normally 1 is just the substitute for the other. The roller tips also are really only their to help at 6-10K RPMS, which you wont see, or you really should be, because your trying to flow the air for a high reving 8, through the valves of a 6, you got 25% less flowing capability from the start. Dont get me wrong, I love the inline, but your build is probably going to mirror the output of Col Flashmans build in terms of power, and cost you a hell of alot more.

 

There is so much wrong with this it isn't even funny.....

Those two combined will probably gain you about 1.5 points of compression. That's about 5-6% more power. In the process you will probably severely compromise the strength of the block and head and cause cylinder seal problems that you won't be able to fix.


As already mentioned, Clifford gets that output with a complete engine build to their specs. They also claim a 60% increase in power, not torque. That comes with an increase in rpm, which means you aren't going to see the torque gain that comes with that power. If 500 ft-lbs doesn't seem that far fetched, take a look at the Colonel's build. His cranked out 400 ft-lbs at the crank. He spent over $4000 with a PROFESSIONAL builder to get that kind of torque. If you think you can do better in your back yard you should seriously reconsider.

 

Guys (and girls), why all of the criticism? I, for one, would love to see this build. We've seen sensible builds that run strong. Why not something a bit more fragile, just to see what is possible? Money does not seem to be a factor in this build, which is a luxury that I have never enjoyed. Let's encourage this project if for no other reason than educational value for everyone involved, including the builder. I say go for it.

 

only criticism im is that he gets these numbers in his head, and thats what he wants to achieve. I mean I can direct you to a dyno that would have Col Flash's truck reading 500 HP and close to 600 ft lbs, or I can direct you to a dyno that would have his 300 400 combo reading a meager 225 300 or something like that.
Are you going to be content with 450 ft lbs with your build? Or will not breaking that 500 mark break your heart? Also, you quote the added cooling and lubrication and lighter rotating mass, and the roller rockers (higher ratio understood, but with the 'torque monster cam' they are gonna hurt you) will gain you that extra 50 ft lbs (sorry the free flowing exhaust will hurt your down low TQ, and the headers are part of the clifford build plan), your sadly mistaken, all of that helps in the high RPM range, like 6K-10K, not your 3-5K which is where you need to be playing.
Supercharge it for the TQ, and you will see 500 Ft / Lbs, and Im not sure what your builder is saying, but from what I have gathered, is the limit of the stock crank, balanced or not.

 

i agree with twinscrew on this one...yall criticized the 600 HP idea for my 300...i dont listen to criticizm unless its helpful...i do plan on this naturally aspirated...if i get close that way ill opt for a turbo or probably a 150 shot of nitrous oxide

 

is it possible to have a forged crank made for the 300? how much would it cost

 

Rot and Broke,
I dont want you to think everyone is coming down on you. We (I atleast) am not trying to tell you what you can or cant do. I am a rookie here just like you and I do not know alot about much. I would love to see a 600hp 500ft lbs 300 running natually aspirated. Nothing would make me happier than telling some guy with a 514 or something that his truck doesnt have ***** like mine. The 300 is great motor and easy to make extra power but not the numbers you are saying. Im hoping for about 200hp and 300tq out of my motor but wouldnt be suprised if I dont make it. If you dont already know how these motors feel bumped up alittle from the old 1bbl and log manifold you will think you have 600hp and 500ft lbs. Keep on keepin on and youll be fine.

 

thanks STGFordCrazy04 sounds like u might just buy a cam intake and header to make the power your looking for