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Old Sep 28, 2004 | 05:42 PM
  #1111  
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That I remember.......
 
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 06:50 PM
  #1112  
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(beavis and butthead voice)u guys are old.....haha
 
Old Sep 28, 2004 | 07:09 PM
  #1113  
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Originally Posted by bighoss550
(beavis and butthead voice)u guys are old.....haha
yep.......
 
Old Oct 5, 2004 | 02:59 PM
  #1114  
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Originally Posted by bighoss550
here are the part #'s for MY home-made kit:

nozzle body- SS 1/4TTSS
cap - SS 1325SS
internal chk- SS 4193A-PP100
nozzle - SS SS8001 (ss800067 and ss80015 are one size smaller and larger)
pump -#2687(8000-543-236)

these are out of dultmeier sales

1 800 228-9666
First off....WOW....I spent the last 2 days reading this thread, and I am excited!

I plan on joining you guys in this quest, by duplicating BigHoss's set-up. I am planning on getting a 10-12 gal lawn sprayer tank and mounting the the pump on top of it, with a check valve in-between to prevent draining back. I, too, will be using it mostly for hauling our race trailer, but will also rod on it a little now and then.

My pick-up is an 04 F-350 CC SRW, stock for the moment, other then the EGR disconnect.

I have one question, though, for Big. I can't find the post, but you mentioned that you wired your pump to put out more pressure. How did you accomplish this? After doing this, has your pump stood up good or would I be better off getting a higher pressure pump?


PSD,
You also mentioned tha you were planning on getting a gauge mount to replace the "hook" in the cab. Did you ever find one? If so, where did you get it? I have been looking for a mount like this. I like everything a certain way, and would love to replace the hook with something worthwhile (like gauges).


I also live in North Dakota, which very regularly reaches -50 plus wind chill (yes, thats right, 50 BELOW 0 temps!), so running pure water in the winter months isn't an option.

I was adding up pieces and looks to be all under $100 minus the lines and maybe a couple of odds-and-ends. Where are you guys getting your braided line from? There isn't any place close to here, and like the looks of the braided line.

Looking forward to building my kit, but it may tank a little bit to get done. I work during the day and then my folks farm, so I go and help them harvest after work. I hope to have everything (gauges, water/meth, K&N, and Predator) all in and functioning by November.

For you guys that have the Predator and water, do you also run a larger exhaust? Was hoping to get by without having to replace my exhaust, but don't want to "choke" of my flow too much. Any thoughts?

Lastly, just a little side note, I know some were talking about pressurizing the water tank. If you do this, you need to have the right tank, meaning if you get an aluminum square tank made, they can bulge and explode at 10 PSI !! I would HIGHLY advise AGAINST pressurizing your tanks to overcome the boost pressure.

Thanks for all the great info.


DTR
 
Old Oct 5, 2004 | 08:16 PM
  #1115  
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From: Hendersonville, NC
Originally Posted by DTR
First off....WOW....I spent the last 2 days reading this thread, and I am excited!

I plan on joining you guys in this quest, by duplicating BigHoss's set-up. I am planning on getting a 10-12 gal lawn sprayer tank and mounting the the pump on top of it, with a check valve in-between to prevent draining back. I, too, will be using it mostly for hauling our race trailer, but will also rod on it a little now and then.

My pick-up is an 04 F-350 CC SRW, stock for the moment, other then the EGR disconnect.

I have one question, though, for Big. I can't find the post, but you mentioned that you wired your pump to put out more pressure. How did you accomplish this? After doing this, has your pump stood up good or would I be better off getting a higher pressure pump?


PSD,
You also mentioned tha you were planning on getting a gauge mount to replace the "hook" in the cab. Did you ever find one? If so, where did you get it? I have been looking for a mount like this. I like everything a certain way, and would love to replace the hook with something worthwhile (like gauges).


I also live in North Dakota, which very regularly reaches -50 plus wind chill (yes, thats right, 50 BELOW 0 temps!), so running pure water in the winter months isn't an option.

I was adding up pieces and looks to be all under $100 minus the lines and maybe a couple of odds-and-ends. Where are you guys getting your braided line from? There isn't any place close to here, and like the looks of the braided line.

Looking forward to building my kit, but it may tank a little bit to get done. I work during the day and then my folks farm, so I go and help them harvest after work. I hope to have everything (gauges, water/meth, K&N, and Predator) all in and functioning by November.

For you guys that have the Predator and water, do you also run a larger exhaust? Was hoping to get by without having to replace my exhaust, but don't want to "choke" of my flow too much. Any thoughts?

Lastly, just a little side note, I know some were talking about pressurizing the water tank. If you do this, you need to have the right tank, meaning if you get an aluminum square tank made, they can bulge and explode at 10 PSI !! I would HIGHLY advise AGAINST pressurizing your tanks to overcome the boost pressure.

Thanks for all the great info.


DTR
As for the cab hook thing, I have been searching since you asked me this and CANNOT find it I have it bookmarked somewhere but I cannot figure out where...I know that I posted a link some good while back; it is just the matter of finding that link. I will keep looking for you; at this point I haven't gotten around to the all the gauges or pods I would like to have in the future.
 
Old Oct 5, 2004 | 09:00 PM
  #1116  
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Ok, thanks for checking. If you come across anything, I'm sure you'll let me know. I just thought I'd ask here, since I wasn't sure the the PM worked or not.



DTR
 
Old Oct 5, 2004 | 10:42 PM
  #1117  
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Originally Posted by DTR
Ok, thanks for checking. If you come across anything, I'm sure you'll let me know. I just thought I'd ask here, since I wasn't sure the the PM worked or not.



DTR
The braded line looks great but is not really necessary. Mine is braded but I had removed it from a nitrous system on a drag car along with the fogger nozzle and had it in my garage. This fairly low pressure, non flamible mixture really only requires some quality hose like on a pressure spray rig. It is one place to save money.
 
Old Oct 6, 2004 | 07:42 AM
  #1118  
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From: North Dakota
Originally Posted by Choctaw Bob
The braded line looks great but is not really necessary. Mine is braded but I had removed it from a nitrous system on a drag car along with the fogger nozzle and had it in my garage. This fairly low pressure, non flamible mixture really only requires some quality hose like on a pressure spray rig. It is one place to save money.
Ok, thanks Bob. Also, can you tell me what part number you used for your fogger nozzle? I got to thinking about the ag sprayer nozzle and am not crazy about having that much hardward hanging in my intake. IMO, it will restrict the flow too much.

Thanks,

DTR
 
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 08:03 AM
  #1119  
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Originally Posted by DTR
Ok, thanks Bob. Also, can you tell me what part number you used for your fogger nozzle? I got to thinking about the ag sprayer nozzle and am not crazy about having that much hardward hanging in my intake. IMO, it will restrict the flow too much.

Thanks,

DTR
The fogger nozzle is an old Nitrous Oxide Systems Fogger nozzle that is 8 or 9 years old. I would think any would do. You will need a .030 jet to go with it. Hook the line to the fuel side of the nozzle and cap the nitrous side unless you want to hook a 2 stage system to the same nozzle. Some sort of bracket to support the weight of the hose would prevent the load from destroying the threads in your intake elbow
 
Old Oct 6, 2004 | 08:41 AM
  #1120  
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From: North Dakota
Originally Posted by Choctaw Bob
The fogger nozzle is an old Nitrous Oxide Systems Fogger nozzle that is 8 or 9 years old. I would think any would do. You will need a .030 jet to go with it. Hook the line to the fuel side of the nozzle and cap the nitrous side unless you want to hook a 2 stage system to the same nozzle. Some sort of bracket to support the weight of the hose would prevent the load from destroying the threads in your intake elbow
Ok, I will look into that. Thanks for the info. One other question, when you say 2-stage, and I know PSD is builting/has built a 4 stage system, what are the advantages? In my thinking, 1 nozzle sprays at a given point/pressure, and then shuts off, ans another nozzle sprays at a higher pressure. Why not just let 1 nozzle spray constantly? Or are the 2 nozzels of different size orfice, meaning the lower pressure nozzle sprays so much, and then the 2nd stage is a bigger orfice to spray more?

Thanks Again.

DTR
 
Old Oct 6, 2004 | 08:51 AM
  #1121  
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Most two stage systems have two pumps because the high cost of a pump that could maintain volume and pressure when the second stage came on plus cost of regulators and so on. The cheapest would be to use the boost pressure for a second stage.
 
Old Oct 6, 2004 | 09:31 AM
  #1122  
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Ok, I think I've got it, but let me re-cap once more. Please pardon my ignorance!!

With a 2 stage kit, a second pump is used so that the amount of water/meth being injected is the same at high boost as it is at low boost.

With 1 pump, as your boost increase, the amount of pressure being put out by the pump decreases (it has to overcome the intake pressure).

However, if you pressurize your tank from the turbo, only 1 pump would be needed, because the inlet to the pump would be subjected to the same pressure as what is in the intake of the motor, and then the pump would still put out its rated amount of pressure.

So the idea of a 2-stage is to create a consistant amount of water/meth being injected regardless of what boost level you may be at.

Does this sound correct?
 
Old Oct 6, 2004 | 03:04 PM
  #1123  
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DTR
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From: North Dakota
Where is the best/cheapest place to buy a N.O. pressure switch? I'm thinking about having my system controled with a pressure switch in conjunction with an on/off switch. That way I can turn it on when I want, but it will have to be over a certain pressure as well.


DTR
 
Old Oct 7, 2004 | 08:51 PM
  #1124  
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From: stoneboro, pa
Originally Posted by DTR
Where is the best/cheapest place to buy a N.O. pressure switch? I'm thinking about having my system controled with a pressure switch in conjunction with an on/off switch. That way I can turn it on when I want, but it will have to be over a certain pressure as well.


DTR
summit. unless u can find a hobbes switch on the net for less at one of those warehouses. a 2 stage system defeats the idea of a full throttle power adder....u dont need to worry about the pump losing volume when the water is only on at 22psi and above with ur boost switch. besides, the volume lost is next to nothing when ur pump is pushin 150-200psi(my cheap northern tools pump does just that) against 28psi in the intake.

thats all i have in my setup. a boost switch, toggle switch, relay, and pump.
works extremely well.
 
Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:32 PM
  #1125  
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Originally Posted by bighoss550
summit. unless u can find a hobbes switch on the net for less at one of those warehouses. a 2 stage system defeats the idea of a full throttle power adder....u dont need to worry about the pump losing volume when the water is only on at 22psi and above with ur boost switch. besides, the volume lost is next to nothing when ur pump is pushin 150-200psi(my cheap northern tools pump does just that) against 28psi in the intake.

thats all i have in my setup. a boost switch, toggle switch, relay, and pump.
works extremely well.
Hey Kenton...how you been?
 



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