I started out cleaning this panel as best I could, and then running it through the dishwasher with water only, no detergent. There was still brown discoloration up in the alert windows, like dust or dirt. So I "scrubbed" it with a small paintbrush and soapy water, then ran it through the dishwasher again, this time with detergent. Still looked dirty in there, so I got a small brush and flat black paint and did the best I could to get the insides of it nice and black.


I masked everything off and cut up some sponges to stuff into the holes where the high beam and directional indicators are.


Two coats of SEM satin black and she looks lovely!


After silver paint pen on the edging...

 

My craw space from what I remember you can get through the door on all 4 but a few feet in you are on your belly to get under duct work that runs to the left.
To the right you have plumbing that you had to almost belly craw. I have only been to the far corner maybe 2 times in 11 years and that is where my well booster pump and tank is.
I only went back to put air in the tank and why it has been only the 2 times. We are on county water and the well only works 1 outside spigot and that is at the farthest end from the driveway
I have not used the well in 2+ years, power off to the pump so dont know if it would still run?

Looking at your HVAC panel it is different than mine. Off is the same but mine then has the AC settings and then vent where yours is vent then AC.
I guess that is why the plug is different between the 2? If it was not such a PITA to pull the panel I would pull it and see if I could fix it from leaking vacuum.
When I got home from the Father's Day show I tried the HVAC settings, it was on vent, and it blew air out the vents so I guess the temp fix was the ticket.
I will have to do a better fix at so point. I may also look into wiring that vacuum bypass valve closed so no hot water goes to the intake & heater core.
When I tried the air vents the air was a little warm like the hoses were when we were looking things over but is was not hot like it was before the re-plumb.

I do got to say the truck started a lot easier this morning to go to the show and at the show for the ride home where it has not done that when this hot out but I still want to do more testing
The next thing I need to do is get the AC working again and hopefully find the leak.

When it cools down a little I need to get back on the Jeep. I do not want to work with the fiber glass rosin when really hot out as the work time is shorter.
I should have enough plastic food trays I can use to mix the rosin in and got a box of cheap brushes just got to get to it.
Dave ----

 

That's good news that the truck is behaving better in the heat. Rerouting that heater hose was the right way to go.

You know you can increase the drying time of the resin by using a little less hardener. But I never know exactly how much to use anyway I just squeeze a few squirts and pray for the best.

These are the two panels I have, the top one being the one with the round rubber pad, and the bottom one being like the one you had. I can see some of the settings are different, so anybody who replaces one with the other not only has to deal with the electrical connectors being different, but also making sure the vacuum lines match up.


I hope I can finish what I need to go and get the dash installed into the truck before I leave for my trip on Thursday. I am finished with the wiring and now I need to clean it really good and mask everything off for a coat of SEM vinyl spray. And then it should be ready.

 

I dont know if the vacuum plug lines are in different places or not as I dont think anyone got into it that deep but as a guess they are not.
Just the face plate and they could make the insides point to the same nipples between the 2 controls.
I know the 2 I brought to show have the studs broken that hold the vacuum plug in place. I wonder if they work better than mine and I can maybe wire the plug to stay in place if needed?
I will have to look over that one still with the face plate to see?

I was taking to Ken & his wife on the Thing not wanting to run right.
He says it starts and runs good cold but when it is up to temp it does not want to start or gives him a hard time.
As you know he is still running points and he said he wired in a "hot start" relay that when cranking the coil gets a full 12 volts and did not help.
I asked when was the last time the points were set and how? He said been a bit and kind of set with a match book cover
He also said the timing was jumping and the only thing that could cause that is a bad upper bushing in the distributor.

Told him he should first check the distributor shaft for play and if bad to replace it**.
Then to check / set the gap with filler gauge and then really dial it in with a dwell meter and see what happens.
Could be the condenser could be failing when it get hot and to maybe replace it.

** He also told me he has a electronic distributor he won somewhere but the wires were cut.
I said if the distributor in the car now has bad bushings to add longer wires and use it.
So he has somethings he can check and do to maybe get it to start hot.
Then he can mess with balancing the carbs.
Dave ----

 

Well when I said the vacuum line difference between the 2 styles, the connector is different so it wouldn't be a direct swap. So you have to know which lines goes where.

I found a HVAC vacuum diagram on here last night somewhere in the Bullnose forum and saved it. Do you have a vacuum pump? I'm trying to think how I can generate vacuum for testing all the ports and functions.



I bet it would take less than 30 minutes to extend the wires and install the new electronic distributor in Ken's Thing. And I bet that would clear up a lot of issues!