That reminds me, I still have those A pillar trims for you. I haven't noticed your seat I will have to look at that. My Mustang seats are getting bad, the rear is split along the top edge for about 10 inches, and the drivers seat is starting to pull apart. The back seat is original I just sprayed red vinyl dye on it about 20 years ago, but the front I just had recovered less than 15 years ago, so I am surprised it is already getting bad because it's not like I sit and drive it every day.

Oh ok so that panel with the switches is also related to the clock in the middle panel. That must have been an optional upgrade that neither of my trucks had.

The older couple has been driving the 68 Mustang coupe, instead of the 66 convertible, and I am guessing it must be because he's still not confident in it and afraid of pulling out into traffic and having it fall flat on it's face and die out. If you have any ideas you'd like to try out I can give them a call and we can go over together. The carb is new but may or may not have been properly tuned upon install. I can't remember how long ago he said he got it, but it wasn't too long ago and it still looks nice and fresh. I know some carburetors are very sensitive to backfiring, my Autolite Ford 2 barrel would blow the PV if I had a backfire even just one time.

It was too hot to do much today but I did tackle the wiring for the trailer hookup. I had made the connector piece last night, then ran those wires in, gave both ends a nice squeeze of dielectric grease, and then snapped and / or tie wrapped everything in place. I was looking for a good spot to mount the 7 pin connector panel, the best place looked to be on the lower lip of the panel that runs behind the bumper. But that had it sitting too high, tucked up too far under, so that you couldn't open the flap all the way. Plus the panel is kind of flimsy, I could easily push it in or out so I knew if I was pressing a stubborn trailer harness into the slot I would be in danger of bending that panel. So I got a piece of sheet metal and formed it like a Z to drop it down some, added 3/4 in spacer above it to drop the connector down a little, then tied the back side into the cross brace for the truck bed. It came out very sturdy and just low enough to be able to open the flap with no interference.





After 6 years that battery don't owe you anything
For sure tell Andre how great his S10 sounds. lol

 

I looked closer at the 3 buttons Time / Etime / Date The time is off and maybe the date too as I am afraid to make the needed changes as I know the system is vary fragile.
Maybe after the battery change out this week I will see about adjusting the time /date.

Yea 6 years is not bad and 1 time the trailer killed it at the Peach Cobbler that time.
If it was not for the fuel in the carb boiling and flooding the motor at the show yesterday or evaporating for starting on Friday and killing it and starting all this.

On the way home Pete with the Javelin broke down so I went back to check, wife was on here way, I left the truck running and building heat.
When I went to pull away on 210 the truck started bucking like it was out of gas and the AFR gauge went blank.
I have had this happen before when pulling the trailer and working the motor if I stopped for a long light.
I think the fuel in the carb boils and being vapor the motor runs out of fuel
When I replace the battery I am going to replumb the heater core bypass valve to also bypass heating the intake manifold.
I made a change the other day when I tighten the ALT belt that the valve close to the core and that works for the outting yesterday so it should work for the intake too.

I saw the older couple brought the convert out yesterday. I waited till it was running before I left just to make sure all was good.
When we got to Sound Station they went straight and I turned right thru town so I dont know how they got home as I did not see them pass me when I was with Pete
Kory's dad did turn around to check on us as he was behind me a few cars.

The trailer wiring turned out pretty good. My parts truck had a Tee for trailer wiring. It plugged in between the frame rail harness and the taillight harness.
It has the running, brake / turn, back up so no need to "tap into" a line. I ran 10 ga wire for the brake and power down the frame to the light plug and ground runs to the frame right at the back.
I can unplug the Tee and pull the 10 ga wires and the whole trailer light hook up would be out.

My taillight harness I had to make from the style side one. There is a little harness for the plate light that plugs into the taillight harness.
The plate is to the left and under the bed a little. The style side harness has the plate lights built in and is in the center of the harness.
You learn a lot when you have 2 different model trucks LOL
Dave ----

 

I am glad the 66 Mustang inline 6 was running good, he is happy with it even though he said he had one instance where it stalled out. So it's definitely better and dependable enough to drive out, but still not perfect. I have hinted at the pertronix but he's not convinced it is worthwhile. He says "I read this" and "I read that". I tod him Petronix 1 works great in a case like yours; stock motor / stock ignition. People that put the Pertronix 2 in sometimes have problems, because that one needs full 12v and a stock ignition system from the 60's usually only putting out 9v. I think he would be happy with it if he tried it out but I am not going to get too pushy on someone in their late 70's who has been working on Mustangs as long as I've been alive. But if he'd be willing to buy one and give it a try I would install it for him.

I talked to Pete yesterday afterwards, he didn't see my message for quite some time. His wife brought him 2 gallons, that was enough to get pump primed and then drive to the gas station to fill up and fine afterwards. He told me when it gets less than half a tank it has a hard time sucking fuel and that he thinks going to in-tank pump will be the answer. I said as long as pump is lower than the tank and close to the tank it should be easy to suck fuel, he said it's on the frame rail in the back maybe 2 feet from the tank. So that got me thinking; it sounds like he already has a good spot that should not be causing any issue. But my old pickup truck used to do that when it had less than 5 gallons which I found out was because the pickup tube in the tank was rusted at the bottom, so 2 or 3 inches from the bottom it starts to pull air. I thought maybe his Javelin has something wrong like that. If his float assembly is old maybe it has a pinhole rusted in it that allows it to suck air once it reaches a certain point. Or if it is new, maybe the 2 piece design that has a rubber fuel line at the end, and the rubber is degraded or something. Either way I would love to be able to get a good look in there. He messaged me today and said he thinks his fuel gauge is off and maybe it had less than 1/4 tank and sucked air as it sloshed around.

On your truck experiencing vapor lock, I have a couple of ideas. In addition to you rerouting the heater hose for the hot months. One might a phenolic spacer underneath the carb to shield it from the heat as they typically run that EGR through the intake, if you're at idle and not pulling a lot of air through to keep it cool it starts to bake the intake. The other thing is just insulation for the fuel line, I don't know if you already do this. I slit rubber fuel line and slide it over the metal line and then put corrugated plastic wire loom on that, on the areas where it's too close to something hot.

Doug and Marlene both told me yesterday, today, and previous times before, that their 55 Chevy needs a new carburetor, but they cannot find one to replace it. It's a 6 cylinder with a 1 barrel carburetor I do believe, and I would think most likely a Rochester. But when I google for them I find a million of them online for sale, mostly in the $100 range. I'm going to have to ask him again to explain what it is that it needs that makes it hard to find or unable to use these regular Rochester 1 barrel's that all say "fits 1952-1957" etc

I know my mind & memory must be going because I could swear before that he was saying the 59 Ford needs a new carburetor. I remember us talking about it at the show in Broadway NC and I am 99% sure he had the Ford there. But today they were saying the 55 Chevy is the one that is bad (apparently drank half a tank yesterday for him to go from Benson to Kenly).

 

Yea I think a point replacement kit would be the way to go and would give it a try and if it dont work out swap the points back in.
A lot of guys carry the points in the glove box and tools just in case the kit goes bad on the road.
Maybe run that by him and see what he has to say?

Pete called me today and went over his problem and in the long run he needs to pull the sending unit and see if the pickup goes down almost to the bottom of the tank.
There was also talk of the filter sock being rotten but not that it was replaced? Pete said he could not talk to the owner before he bought the car, was on his death bed, and that the car came with a new sender so it may of had problems before he bought it? He also said today before he took it back to storage he put another 2+ gallons in it so who knows how much is in the tank with the way the gauge reads now?
I do think he will go with a in tank pump but I also think what he has will work if he can get the gauge to work right.
The other thing is the filler is at the rear and is low, it is behind the plate. It could be the pump clicks off before the tank is full but he has work ahead of him.

On my truck the EGR is not hooked up, no exhaust tube even to the valve so no heat from that. I believe all the heat is from heating the intake with hot coolant.
When a change out the battery I plan to change the hoses so the bypass valve will bypass the intake and heater core. I do have to say putting manifold vacuum to the valve did close off the core.

On Doge's carb he may want to try https://www.carburetor-parts.com/ I think they sell carbs but I know they sell rebuild kits and parts and may even rebuild his carb if he sends it to them.
Not knowing what is wrong but if the throttle shave is loose and causing a vacuum leak and cant find a replacement I would send it off for a rebuild.
Dave ----

 

Yeah I do think with Doug it was something like that, so worn and sloppy that the butteries don't seal as well and you get vacuum through the shaft. The case being that carb is no longer rebuildable it's just so old and worn it needs to be replaced. I am going to find out more and pay closer attention this time.

I did google for info on the Javelin tank, hoping it was like a Mustang where the sending unit goes in from underneath - super easy as long as you drain the tank first, but no, it appears to be up top on the back corner and no real room to work on it or pull it out unless you drop the tank. But the fact that the previous owner had a new sending unit to go with the car does kind of suggest to me the same thing; he was planning on putting it in for a reason.

My Mustang sending unit was rusted out and the sock was crumbling and being held on by a little string of rust. I cut it off and tried to clean it up as best I could, let it dry real good, then I goobered up the whole outside all the way around with JB weld and then slid a piece of tubing (whatever the next side up that would fit, maybe 3/8) and just turned it slightly from side to side as I worked it up the shaft. When I got close to where I thought the end should be, I stuck it in the gas tank without a gasket and pushed it until seated. Then removed it and let the JB weld dry. Reinstall it with a gasket. So it is at a a slight angle with the bottom of the pickup tube one gasket thickness away from the bottom of the tank. Has worked great for 10 years or so! But I know with no sock on the end it can pull any crap it finds up through there to the pump..

 

I posted this in the wrong thread:


I need a vacation from my weekend. I spent a great three days with my kids in NYC. Non stop the whole time. The city was packed with so much going on. Flights were delayed both ways but we did get there and back safely.

You name it, we did it. I love visiting, but so glad to be back home. Crazy how the 24/7 hum of the city gets in your head. And now all I can hear is the ringing in both my ears from long term tinnitus.

Yall have a good week.



John, The trailer wiring and connector look very clean.

Dave, Sorry your Javelin is acting up.

 

I haven't been to NYC in about 20 years, and in 10 days I am going to Long Island for what is probably the last time I will ever be there.

I got some stuff to brag on. I cleaned up my faceplates and vent registers (including a run through the dishwasher), then sprayed them with SEM trim satin black. It looked beautiful but when I came back through with a silver paint pen to give it the pop it originally had, it really came out nice. This was my first time using a paint pen, originally I had thought (and dreaded about) using a small paintbrush with some silver model paint. But the paint pen was 100 times easier.



Next of course I have to do the big kahuna - the bezel that houses the instrument cluster and warning lights.

Dave maybe you can help me on this (I asked in the Bullnose group on facebook and nobody has given me a clear answer yet). This black rubber disc is part of the heater / AC control, but it's lose and comes off easily. I don't know or understand what is supposed to hold it in place, and I don't know if it is supposed to rotate with the arm, or be stationary while the arm rotates around it. I looked at my other dash, and that control unit is much different.

 

Wow, those trim pieces came out great. They look brand new.

John, I think that is your heat/AC selector. And it appears to be missing some parts. I think you need a spring and the little slot on the "disc" goes into the plastic "pin" at the one o'clock position. There's a star-lock washer that holds the spring down. If you google "vacuum selector" or "heat/AC selector valve" for your year model you should get some hits on google.

 

A lot to digest here when you dont check in for a day or 2

John: On Dougs carb if he cant find a replacement have him talk to Mike's carb shop as they do rebuild carbs and I am sure they can install bushings for the shaft.
Even if he picks up a used one he could send it to Mike have him rebuild it and when he gets it back install it and either have his old one rebuilt and sell it or just sell it or like we all do put it on the shelf

Them dash parts look great. The paint pen is a game changer for things like that. Sorry to say I dont think I would be able to do that again because of my hand shaking.
On the HVAC control only the ones for factory AC use vacuum the other is all cables. I thought I had a picture of that control but not the right angle
I will have to dig the bad ones, broken studs that hold it to the face, out and see what that plate does or is on the control. They should be on the bench in the work room with other dash parts IIRC.
I do know the control in my truck leaks so vacuum does not get full vacuum to the motor to move it. I dont know how the broken ones are like as I had no way to test them.

James: It was not my Javelin, it is up on wheel dollies and is used as a shelf at this time
This was a club members Javelin and because I have Javelins and Gremlins / AMC's I guess I am the go to guy
He has not had the car all that long so he is still getting to know it. He was having a fuel problem before this and had a Holley Sniper EFI installed by 1 shop and when he found a shop that could "tune it" they did not like a few things so they were changed. That shop did say an in take pump would be the best way to go and think that is the way he is going to go. The fuel gauge also does not work so I am guessing when they deal with the pump they will replace the sender with one that came with the car then.

Happy you had a good time in NYC. Most if not all wife's family moved off Long Island to SC & FL a few years ago.
Still has an ante in Brooklyn, cousin out on Staten Island and a good friend in NJ not far from the family so we stay with them in NJ when we go up. I try not to go up if I can help it.
Mary worked in the city. took train from CT each day. She always wanted to go into the city to do things and I did not. Well now she does not want to go up there other than for the family.
Heck I cant stand to go to Raliegh, too city for me with 1 way streets and no parking unless you pay stupid money for it.
Also nothing is cheap, pay way too much for food etc. and for why? Call me cheap, anti social and I will stay home but that's me.


Monday I bought a battery for the pickup and yesterday installed it so it starts right up now
I also picked up heater hose as I wanted to replumb the bypass valve to also bypass the intake manifold.
Once I got the truck running moved it to my garage and made that change.
The little testing I did it seams to work as the lop from motor to valve only got hot till I took vacuum away from the valve.
In doing the swap I broke one of the plastic vacuum lines to the HVAC control and thought I fixed it but ..........
When I was moving the truck back to the house garage I tried the fan to see if heat was coming out the dash vents and only air out the defrost
I am going to have to dig into why vacuum is not getting to the dash control. At 1 time the plastic lines going thru the rubber firewall plug broke inside the rubber, that was fun to find.
I think it may have done the same thing again and may just run new rubber hose to inside but need to see what is going on now that it will be hot as hell out

Maybe I will look into this before I return the old battery?
Dave ----

 

I found a picture of one on ebay that is complete, so I can see I have a lot missing. I don't know if it's broken down inside there. Most of the ones I found were the style from my other dash, but what I've been seeing I gather 80-82 is this style.


My red dash has the 83 and up style. Looks like a better and less complicated design, however it's not plug & play for me as the 4 pin connector is different, and the vacuum maze is a little different also. When I removed it from the red dash, there was no connection on the 4 pin block that is part of the vacuum tree. I went through the harness connector by connector looking and can't find one for it. So I don't know why it had no connection there, one the blue dash it has a 4 pin connector but it is laid out different. Maybe if I knew exactly what wire goes where I could cut the plug off and then make individual connectors, but I don't know what goes where.


I fixed up the weather stripping that gives a seal to the vent register outlet. Whatever was on there was halfway falling apart. It pulled off pretty easily, then I cleaned the surface with 100 grit sandpaper and brake cleaner, once it was dry I just stuck some generic vent seal that I had in my box. It was kind of old and didn't stick very well so I put some weatherstrip adhesive on and clamped it to keep it in place, once it dried it came out great.






Dave that is good news on the new battery. And if you have a spare one of these HVAC controls I would love to look it over and see if it is something that might help me. The vacuum idea has me shaking my head. Doesn't seem like the best design. But only about half the ports have a vacuum line attached, are they all supposed to be capped off? Nothing was there before. Also I have one that is cut or broken, I was thinking to slide a good one in there and use heat shrink tube to hold it together and seal it. Maybe it's better just to get a rubber vacuum line that fits over it?

 

After reading your first half of the post and thinking about this vacuum control there were 2 different ones but can be swapped out as a whole IIRC.
If you have the face plates look at them and where the "vent" is located as I think that was in a different spot between them.
I think because of that the hose out puts were different too. It has been a bit since I played with this so it is a little fogy.

Friday morning we have to take the 2 dogs for their yearly check ups but after that should be home all day and will go out and dig the controls out so you can take a look at them.
What is the 4 pins you talk of is it the electrical plug or vacuum? Unless when it gets cooler and I get out there.

I took the truck to return the old battery and then for a haircut and it started up both times
I still need to look into why I dont have vacuum to the HVAC control. By the time I did this it was way too hot to mess with it.
I think I broke the plastic tubing were it passes thru the firewall oh joy
Dave ----

 

I had a lot of stuff to do today, but nature threw a monkey wrench into my plans. When I got up I noticed a "sssssss" sound from the floor underneath the refrigerator, so I went under into the crawl space and found a leak. As Dave pointed out before mine is high enough not to crawl, so let's call it a "hunch space". Naturally my back is killing me after being under there for 45 minutes making all the repairs.


How many vacuum lines do you show coming in, I am looking at mine and I have two, both cut, at both ends. I don't know where either go. I'll have to go through the parts truck to see what all I cannibalize

On the HVAC controller there are 2 electrical plugs on both panels, one plug connects to the back of the fan switch on the left, and the other plug goes on the same as the vacuum controller. They are both 4-pin, on the earlier (82 and less) the 4 pins are stacked 2 and 2, and on the newer one (84) they are all in line. I don't know what they do but on the 82 the wires are thick (say 12g) with these colors: brown / white stripe, brown / white strip, light green / brown hash marks, and brown / red stripe (or maybe orange stripe).

Looky what I found when I started poking around, looking for missing stuff.

There's my hat and the end piece, I can see now, this broke off. Not just disconnected, the plastic sheered off.

And there's the spring, straight down where it fell.

I disconnected the vacuum tree assembly and steam cleaned everything, then after it dried I sprayed brake cleaner through every vacuum hole. Each one blew out somewhere on the tan disc.


I am going to try and mimic this guy's repair so that I can reuse the old one.

I got my tow dolly back from the welders, I'd had him weld in two braces on either side of this riser thing to sturdy it up. That was because I envision putting this receiver on it, and then sliding my receiver mount winch tray in here whenever I need to pull a car on. I also have a hand powered winch that works fine for lighter cars.

 

John, Bummer about the plumbing. Glad you got it fixed. My "crawl" space is actually a military training course. It's so low you need to start out on your belly for certain repairs. Or your back for others. There's no flip flopping around once you get in there. Plus the air handler is under there so you have to navigate that as well.

Glad you found those missing parts for the selector. I don't see why using that video wouldn't work. They look identical.

Nice little winch contraption you fabbed up. It should work great.



Dave, Hope the wife is feeling better. Also, hope everything goes well at the vet. I'm taking mine for her annual check up next week.



Yall have a good weekend.

 

John, when we bought the house it had a mix of copper & PEX thinking it must have dont the same as yours.
When we remodeled the center bathroom we had all the supply lines replaced with PEX. The water down here I guess kills copper pipe.
We also have a whole house water softener and filter system and that was just replaced last week as it was starting to fail and the tanks were no longer made.
Even the LED display was starting to go bad and could not read what it was spitting out LOL We should be good for another 10 years on that.

I will have to watch that video to see what it is all about to see if it may help what mine is doing.
Mine does not send the full the to the motor needed to be moved and you have to play with the control to get it to work.
It is hard to find good ones because of the age and the heat they get in the cabs. Most of the time I leave it on vent or AC when it works.
I did not look into yet why it is doing nothing, too damn hot and I got other cars / SUV that has AC to use

James wife is doing better everyday as she is starting to bend over to feed the kids when I dont move fast enough for her.
The dogs check up went good and dont have to go back till next year unless something happens god for bid.
At 11 for the boy and 9 for the girl they are doing really good.

Tony called this afternoon and he want the trailer to the Saturday cruise so had to do the trash today as I was going to do it in the morning but I will not have time and get there for 10am.
I will hit the garage later and look for the controls so you can look at them John, I am sure they are on the table in the work room still.
Oh I also filled the truck up and the front tank sender is working. I guess it was lower then I thought and why I thought it was broken.
I ran the tank empty and ad to switch tanks to keep it running and it took 15.5 gallons on a 16 gallon tank think it was empty LOL
Dave ----

 

James it sounds like you gotta choose your approach wisely, because you can't change your mind halfway! Mine starts (entry point) you can bend hunch over, once you get halfway (which is where my well switch and pressure tank are) you have to be on all 4's, so it's a crawl space at that point. Far end of the house, I have only been to one time, when I was running cat 5 cable so me and the kids could all connect to a LAN and play warcraft together. Back before wifi! That far end you gotta crawl on elbows and knees.

Dave that gas tank was just a tad bit low I'd say Glad to hear Mary is getting back to doing more things, how are her headaches? The pipe originally in my house was the "thin wall" copper tubing that some cheapskate rolled out in the late 80's to cash in on the housing boom, people started having failures soon after. My house was built in either 88 or 89 (I forget which) and I bought it in 95, had my first leak that same year and when I went underneath I saw the previous owner had been under there to repair leaks before as well. I'm at the point now where it's about 75% PVC, each time I get a leak I try to replace the whole section instead of just patching it.

Thanks for bringing that control panel, different from the one that goes with my harness, but the same as the one that was in the red dash. The vacuum tree and the 4-pin electrical post are a little different.

I saw what the guy in the video did, looked simple enough. I think he ran 1/4 inch bolt down the center, I used a 5/16. Instead of a screw head at the bottom I just ran a tap down it (turned it was not needed, as the inside ID is 5/16 but years of crud build up had me feeling resistance and thinking it was smaller). Then I JB welded some 5/16 threaded rod in, had to let that sit and cure for 24 hours. Snug it on with a nylon lock nut (just tried to imitate the same installed height as before so as to keep the same amount of spring pressure) and it works well, you can feel the notches as you move it from vent, max AC, floor, defrost, etc. But the threaded rod kinda moved from side to side a little bit, the shaft broke off flush with the piece. So I took it all apart and redid with a little 3/8 spacer in there, snugged it down against that, it's far enough to give good spring pressure but firm enough to stay nice and vertical. Also since I had taken it apart for the final time, I smeared a little petroleum jelly between the plastic piece and the rubber to help it turn smoothly. I hope that was ok and not a "no-no".