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Now that I've got my project stripped down to the frame it is time for some reassembly but many of the nuts and bolts are in no condition to use again. I need some new ones to bolt some of my brackets back onto the frame, etc. Is there a specific type of bolt I should be looking for as opposed to the bolt bin down at the local home improvement store? I've searched the threads unsuccessfully for automotive fastener info. A short nut and bolt primer would be greatly appreciated.
Actually, the nuts and bolts in most of the major assemblies are called out on the exploded drawings in the "Ford Chassis Parts Catalogue" for your year (I'll see if I can scan mine and post it but it's 48-52). In the back there is a standard hardware table that has the specs for nuts, bolts, screws, washers, etc.
That is an invaluable book to have. I see the 48-52 books for sale on E-bay for about $45 all the time. I've never seen one for 53-56 (but I never look for them either) I'm CERTAIN the books all come on CD which is less expensive.
I would definately recommend picking one up - has exploded drwaings of every thing on your truck!
Good Luck,
Julie
PS. I haven't done a frame off but just about as close as you can get. In any assembly that doesn't require specialty bolts (grade 5 or 8) I would definately go with stainless steel. But be prepared to pay. Last time I counted up my reciepts, I had over $1500 in Hardware alone!
I went the size of the original bolt however I got everything in grade 8 bolts. Probably the ones that would make a difference are in the doors which you can get from MF or DC If you aren't trying to make it original or a show truck just get grade 8 bolts from any hardware store.
IMHO using grade 8 for all bolts is expensive overkill since grade 8 are 50-100% more expensive than grade 5, the grade I use for non structural uses.Grade 2 bolts (common with no head markings) are the softest, but should only be used for hanging trim or other light duty applications. Grade 5 (3 raised radial lines on head) are the universal automotive assembly grade, Grade 8 (6 radial lines on head) are high strength bolts for structural applications. Always use at least the same grade washers, lock washers and nuts as the bolts, a grade 5 nut for example is designed so the grade 5 bolt will break before the nut will strip.Most SS bolts are approximately equivilent to grade 5 unless otherwise certified by the manufacturer.NF (fine) thread bolts are less likely to break, can be torqued tighter, and are less likely to loosen from vibration than NC (course).Most of the fastening bolts used by Ford on 53-56 trucks were 5/16" x 24 NF in various lengths. There are hardware sellers on ebay that sell assortments of bolts and matching nuts and washers and will even make up assortments to your needs. (all one size in various lengths, all SS button heads, etc). Fastener dealers typically want you to buy full boxes of each component. Enthusiast suppliers like Mid Fifty sell sets of the appropriate size, quantity and quality bolts and nuts for the various sub assemblies as well. Contact me if you'd like recommendations of people I have had good luck with.
Most of the fastening bolts used by Ford on 53-56 trucks were 5/16" x 24 NF in various lengths.
Sounds like grade 5 of the above will suit my purposes. Do you know if these are available thru Home Depot, Lowes, or an automotive retailer such as Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. I'd like to obtain locally as opposed to internet if possible.
Thanks all for the good info. It helps stretch my budget a little further.
I been getting most of my grade 8 bolts at Traitor Supply, You can buy them by the pound. They just don,t have fine thread at the location I go. Also if you live near a Fastenal they have a large asortment of all grades and sizes. Most of the catalogs like MidFifty are LMC have bolt kits for various locations of the truck
Ps. The Lowes and Home Depot near me are priced on the high end.
For applications that just hold stuff together, use whatever you want.
Besides the grade of the hardware - you need to consider the source.
For applications that are safety or integrity related use quality sources that are approved by the "Fastener Quality Act". This just means that the sources are certified by testing labortories. You won't find this stuff at Depot, Menards or Lowes. Go to a real hardware distributor. Aircraft is also bulletproof.
I replace all my bolts, nuts, washers, etc. with Stainless Steel.
A number of on-line sites have downloadable parts catalogs with charts, diagrams, sizes, prices etc. to view and learn about the various fasteners that are available, e.g., Totally Stainless, Bolt Depot.
Local hardware stores, Home Depot, etc. are expensive since they usually sell packaged fasteners or small quantities. i prefer to use the Internet since many have low shipping cost and no sales tax. I have had good service/prices from Fairway Fasteners, Inc.
It is best to buy kits where practical. I just replaced my bed and bought the entire SS bed kit from MAR-K. It is cheaper to buy non-polished and to polish the bolts yourself.
Unless the bolts are completely rusted through or damaged, you should be able to reuse the hardware. Investing in a parts tumbler/vibrator (available through Eastwood) would be a good idea. You can throw all your rusty hardware in the bowl filled with the appropriate media, let them tumble for an hour or two, and the hardware will look brand new again. After the tumbling process, you'll either need to apply a zinc or black oxide finish to prevent corrosion. Eastwood offers zinc and black oxide finishing kits, or you could send all your fasteners off to a company specializing in plating bulk materials for about the same price. The parts tumbler/vibrator can be expensive ($300 or less) depending on the bowl size you order, but the investment will pay for itself after your first restoration.
Regarding the grade 8 fasteners--overkill and expensive. Most of the bolts on the suspensions and steering components are working on shear pressure. You'll rip your truck's frame apart before a grade 8 fastener will ever see enough shear pressure to fail. Ford used grade 5 for most of the chassis components, which may be identified by three hash marks.
I tend to go to my local ACE hardware store over the big box stores if I need just a few bolts and nuts. Mine carries grade 5, 8 and SS. Northern tool also carries some grade 5 and 8 as well. If you want to buy locally by the box, look in the yellow pages under "fasteners" many medium sized cities have a fastener supplier or two. be prepared for sticker shock tho, I bought a box of 100 SS 5/16 x 1" button heads, a box of flat washers and a box of nylock nuts, and my change from 100.00 wouldn't buy me lunch at quiznos.
We have a place in San Diego called Marshals Industrial Hardware that sells anything you can imagine. If I need just one or two bolts, I will try NAPA for Grade 5 or better, but if I need a bunch I go to Marshals and just throw one or two of each thing I need in a bag, write down the SKU and take the bag to the counter. Sometimes that little bag of stainless bolts, nuts, washers and lock washers is $35 - $40!!!!!!!
AX is right, I don't think many folks fealize how muchthey spend on nuts and bolts - I do. When I re did my interior, I bought the stainless kit on e-bay - it was perfect. When I finished my engine rebuild, I did th esame and it worked out great. When I rebuild something that has two screws that are bad, I scoot over to Dixieline or NAPA (usually because they are close), but hwne I actually plan a large project, I flow out a fasteners list and go to Marshals.....It's almost as much fun as shopping for new shoes!
We have a place in San Diego called Marshals Industrial Hardware that sells anything you can imagine. If I need just one or two bolts, I will try NAPA for Grade 5 or better, but if I need a bunch I go to Marshals and just throw one or two of each thing I need
Simply the best Hardware Store on Earth..... If they don't have it , you don't need it.
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