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Alright I guess I'm back again cause this pile wont stay running without breaking something. Got to a stop sign the other day and it died on me and wouldnt start back up. Ran some tests the fuel pumps turn on and it gets to the rail fine so I doubt its fuel, I've put new battery terminals on cause I've had electrical bs in the past like this, I got it to turn over once or twice but it would only run for about 2 seconds soundin like it was on 2 cylinders before dying again. Now back to square one. Thinking its a spark issue, however this truck has a new distributor, new tfi module, and I just ran a resistance test on the coil and it tested out fine there. Anything I might be missing that could have gone bad of perhaps that I'm blind to? I suppose without spark testing the coil theres no guarantees but I dont have the extra set of hands to properly test it I think
It would probably better to have posted on your previous thread since it is the same unresolved issue. There were a couple of people who commented before you said it was fixed. Did you check the things that they suggested. The problem seems to be TFI/PIP related, but it could be something else. The last suggestion told you how to check for the PIP signal.
It would probably better to have posted on your previous thread since it is the same unresolved issue. There were a couple of people who commented before you said it was fixed. Did you check the things that they suggested. The problem seems to be TFI/PIP related, but it could be something else. The last suggestion told you how to check for the PIP signal.
My last post from a while ago? No I fixed that. Turned out the plug to the coil had broken so one of the wires wasnt connected. Now its a different issue entirely
If it doesn’t run on spray, then you have no spark. Start with coil and Tfi/pip signal.
Got a new coil to test. Didnt work at first, plugged in a spark tester at the coil, has spark there, tried it at the distributor side and has spark there. Tried at the distributor end of one of the plugs, spark there, tried on another and it started briefly. Got it to start again and gave it some throttle and itd Rev up fine but would come back to idle and sound like it was missing on around half then quickly got worse and died again. At this point my battery is now low so ill have to charge it before trying anything else while it was running it definitely smelled rich as **** and was a bit smokey if thats any indicator for yall
The smoke clear up after running for a second or rich the whole time? Check actual pressure on fuel rail.
I didnt think to check. The trucks been running rich for sometime after I did some gasket work and added the new distributor and I could never figure why. Suppose could be the regulator gave out at this point and its just flooding the **** out of it
Did you do as @My4Fordtrucks suggested on post #4 of your other thread? He was asking if you double checked that the distributor rotor was in fact pointed at number one on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?
Did you do as @My4Fordtrucks suggested on post #4 of your other thread? He was asking if you double checked that the distributor rotor was in fact pointed at number one on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke?
I am 99% certain it was yes, because I've been driving it around since that summer as its my daily and its been fine other than the running rich. I feel like if it was on the exhaust stroke itd be running a lot worse if at all
Well. As I've learned itll start and run with the spout disconnected, albeit not great but it wont die either. Adjusting the timing seemed to help some, so off to get a new spout I go to see if that fixes it
The spout is just a connector that when removed, breaks the computers ability to control timing. Replacing that won’t fix the issue. The only way it would be bad is if it was broken and not allowing the computer to advance. It would run like it was unplugged. Seems like your issue is when the computer is allowed to control things.
The spout is just a connector that when removed, breaks the computers ability to control timing. Replacing that won’t fix the issue. The only way it would be bad is if it was broken and not allowing the computer to advance. It would run like it was unplugged. Seems like your issue is when the computer is allowed to control things.
Meaning what at that point? Bad wire somewhere or maybe my ecu dying? Which I hope is not the case. Definitely no expert on these but it dont seem like theres a whole lot it could be