Crank No Start
Thats inside the distributor right? Gonna be annoyed if thats bad due to it bein a new distributor. I guess whats the best way to test that then? Be a tomorrow after work problem but can at least get an idea
The only thing I can see wrong with the computer is the pins. I doubt it is factory dielectric grease, since dielectric grease does not conduct electricity. I would clean the pins and put it back in. The fact that your truck will run with the spout disconnected, but not connected, says that the ECM is commanding timing as it should. Double and triple check that everything is correct with your timing. Make sure that you have the distributor installed with the rotor pointed at the #1 terminal on the compression stroke and that every wire is in the correct position on the cap. Are you using the correct firing order for your engine? Are you using the correct cylinder as your #1 cylinder? You will learn, when someone tells you what they believe the problem to be, it is still up to you to diagnose that it is in fact the problem. Nobody on this forum but you has access to the vehicle, so it's still all on you. If you believe the issue to be the PIP, watch videos on how to properly test it. You are going to need to buy a lot of tools to work on these old rigs, but you will save yourself a lot of money when you learn to diagnose and not just throw parts at it.
The only thing I can see wrong with the computer is the pins. I doubt it is factory dielectric grease, since dielectric grease does not conduct electricity. I would clean the pins and put it back in. The fact that your truck will run with the spout disconnected, but not connected, says that the ECM is commanding timing as it should. Double and triple check that everything is correct with your timing. Make sure that you have the distributor installed with the rotor pointed at the #1 terminal on the compression stroke and that every wire is in the correct position on the cap. Are you using the correct firing order for your engine? Are you using the correct cylinder as your #1 cylinder? You will learn, when someone tells you what they believe the problem to be, it is still up to you to diagnose that it is in fact the problem. Nobody on this forum but you has access to the vehicle, so it's still all on you. If you believe the issue to be the PIP, watch videos on how to properly test it. You are going to need to buy a lot of tools to work on these old rigs, but you will save yourself a lot of money when you learn to diagnose and not just throw parts at it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...g-the-pip.html
I thought you said the Tfi was replaced? You just said you returned it.
I thought you said the Tfi was replaced? You just said you returned it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...g-the-pip.html
I thought you said the Tfi was replaced? You just said you returned it.
I thought you said the Tfi was replaced? You just said you returned it.
Sounds like a plan. I'm hoping its not just for the sake of not buying another one but we'll see. I'll reset the timing as best I can while I'm there as well just in case
Where are you getting them from? Do they not have a warranty?
I'd have to look but off hand probably rockauto for the distributor. I don't remember on their warranty system but I feel like it wasnt particularly great for one reason or other
Mine was lifetime remanned Oreilly, after the 3rd failed, they swapped it for a lifetime new one.
expensive parts I always get at a physical store for that reason.
I warrantee’d a part once with Rockauto and I’ll never do that again, such a pain.
expensive parts I always get at a physical store for that reason.
I warrantee’d a part once with Rockauto and I’ll never do that again, such a pain.








