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Alright. After not having much time yesterday I was able to test the pip today. Ran a test based off a video or two that involved removing the distributor and turning it manually while grounded to spark a plug with the ignition on and everything plugged in. The plug has spark which tells me both the tfi and pip should be working. On my way to get a 15/16ths socket to turn the crank and check the base timing again now and put it back together
If you have it out still, heat it up really good with a blow dryer or heat gun and test again. See if that drops it (like if it was running in the engine.)
Make sure you have the compression stroke!
Last edited by 90project5.0; Jan 14, 2026 at 05:23 PM.
If you have it out still, heat it up really good with a blow dryer or heat gun and test again. See if that drops it (like if it was running in the engine.)
Make sure you have the compression stroke!
Well, can acquire a blow dryer on my way to get a 15/16ths, so I'll try it. Any particular part of the distributor to head up? I'd imagine closer to the top/middle
Well after trying to turn it was a breaker bar I got harshly reminded how much of a pain it is to turn the crank pulley manually in daylight let alone in the dark, so that'll be a tomorrow problem. Tempted to wait till Friday to try the heat method due to it planning to be significantly warmer, thus easier to keep heated up since I'll have to go back and forth from my apartment to plug in the blow dryer
Where the pip plugs are. Remove the spark plugs, that will help the engine rotate.
Welp, ran the test after leaving it under a blow dryer for some 5-10 minutes. Worked just like it did before. Retimed it, got it to where it let out a big gust of air out of cylinder 1 and then backed it off a bit before putting the distributor in with the rotor pointed at number 1. Currently it doesn't start with or without the spout now so thats fun though the battery was running low again so its going back on a charger and going from there
Why did you back off? I’m guessing you’re at least a tooth off. Place a long screwdriver in cylinder 1 carefully and turn the crank until it’s all the way up (if it starts going down, then back it up again. Stab the distributor there. That will still be a little retarded, but will run.
Why did you back off? I’m guessing you’re at least a tooth off. Place a long screwdriver in cylinder 1 carefully and turn the crank until it’s all the way up (if it starts going down, then back it up again. Stab the distributor there. That will still be a little retarded, but will run.
To get to the rough idea of 10 degrees btdc. Chances are I backed it off too much, though even turning the distributor as much as I could to retard it it didnt seem to want to make it run, nor advancing it either.
Did you look for pip signal since putting back together?
No we only put it back together and tried it a couple times before calling it as it was a good bit after dark and the battery was running low. I suppose I'll redo the timing again tomorrow, though I really didnt back it off much at all so we'll see I suppose
When you get at it tomorrow, if it doesn’t start, put a timing light on while cranking just to see if you’re getting signal from the coil. That can tell where to focus.
Map sensor is the cause of vehicle shut down like at a stop sign, not to far from home. And won't h
Originally Posted by DJ17490
Alright I guess I'm back again cause this pile wont stay running without breaking something. Got to a stop sign the other day and it died on me and wouldnt start back up. Ran some tests the fuel pumps turn on and it gets to the rail fine so I doubt its fuel, I've put new battery terminals on cause I've had electrical bs in the past like this, I got it to turn over once or twice but it would only run for about 2 seconds soundin like it was on 2 cylinders before dying again. Now back to square one. Thinking its a spark issue, however this truck has a new distributor, new tfi module, and I just ran a resistance test on the coil and it tested out fine there. Anything I might be missing that could have gone bad of perhaps that I'm blind to? I suppose without spark testing the coil theres no guarantees but I dont have the extra set of hands to properly test it I think
Map sensor is the cause of vehicle shut down like at a stop sign, not to far from home and will not start back up until the next day I've replaced everything coil packs, plugs,fuel pump, and all the sensors except (map) sensor. As soon as I replaced it WOW how did I not know that was the problem. Try it
Map sensor is the cause of vehicle shut down like at a stop sign, not to far from home and will not start back up until the next day I've replaced everything coil packs, plugs,fuel pump, and all the sensors except (map) sensor. As soon as I replaced it WOW how did I not know that was the problem. Try it
Guess I could but I'm not sure that would be the cause when it ran without the spout connected. It only doesn't run with the spout connected for one reason or other
When you get at it tomorrow, if it doesn’t start, put a timing light on while cranking just to see if you’re getting signal from the coil. That can tell where to focus.
Have to see if I can acquire one from a buddy. I know last time I tried to use one I couldnt get jack worth a reading from it myself. I know Saturday its supposed to drop to like 20 with a windchill making it feel like 5 so tomorrow is the day for some new developments
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