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Crank No Start

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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 03:56 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 90project5.0
When you get at it tomorrow, if it doesn’t start, put a timing light on while cranking just to see if you’re getting signal from the coil. That can tell where to focus.
Well. I got it working again. It seems to even run with the computer hooked up again. I'm kinda thinking my plugs are done. Running rich for as long as it has probably fouled some of them out, as cylinder 1 has spark on both sides of the wire, but if I have it unhooked it doesn't change like it would if it wasnt missing before. I probably haven't put every spark plug back in the same spot it was originally so maybe the new combination allows it to fire at least somewhat well enough to run properly now. I probably need to go ahead and buy an adjustable fuel regulator for this and bring it down a bit. Maybe that would fix that whole issue from arising again. On to get new plugs at some point I suppose
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 04:52 PM
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What exactly got it running again? Redoing timing?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 04:55 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by 90project5.0
What exactly got it running again? Redoing timing?
I put it at tdc before taking the distro out and then moved it over a tooth
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 05:02 PM
  #64  
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Good deal! Did you use a timing light to get it to 10 btdc with spout removed? If it smells rich, that could be normal with all the trying to start. I would run it a few days to see if that clears up. Also, verify you have the wires following the firing order. They could be fouled, you could try removing them and cleaning with brake cleaner or something like that.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 05:16 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 90project5.0
Good deal! Did you use a timing light to get it to 10 btdc with spout removed? If it smells rich, that could be normal with all the trying to start. I would run it a few days to see if that clears up. Also, verify you have the wires following the firing order. They could be fouled, you could try removing them and cleaning with brake cleaner or something like that.
Its been rich for sometime. Assumin the computer didnt like the new tb I got for it plus all the carbon deposits I removed from everything last summer. Didnt have access to a timing light so I adjusted it to where it sounded the best. Theyre definitely black with carbon buildup so I could try cleaning them up first
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 05:20 PM
  #66  
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timing lights can be cheap and good to have when you can get one. A tune up is never a bad idea. Royal purple deep clean max is a great injector cleaner if you haven’t run one. That could clean up the injectors and spark plugs more after you give them a quick cleaning. If they are old enough or look rough, replacements wouldn’t hurt either.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 05:24 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by 90project5.0
timing lights can be cheap and good to have when you can get one. A tune up is never a bad idea. Royal purple deep clean max is a great injector cleaner if you haven’t run one. That could clean up the injectors and spark plugs more after you give them a quick cleaning. If they are old enough or look rough, replacements wouldn’t hurt either.
They're a probably 5 years at this point, 2 years of daily use. Older than the wires since I had to get a new set last year when one went bad. I usually put sea foam in it every once in a while for injector cleaner
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 05:26 PM
  #68  
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If you can afford it, I would just toss a new set in then.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 05:50 PM
  #69  
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Now that she’s running again, I would check for codes as well. If she’s been running rich for a while, something is off somewhere. It could be a crack or hole in exhaust before O2 sensor, O2 sensor itself or a sensor like intake air temp, coolant temp, etc that isn’t allowing the computer to adjust correctly. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be a mask and you would need a wideband O2 sensor to see actual air fuel ratio to dial it in. Just something to think about!
 
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Old Jan 18, 2026 | 06:39 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by DJ17490
They're a probably 5 years at this point, 2 years of daily use. Older than the wires since I had to get a new set last year when one went bad. I usually put sea foam in it every once in a while for injector cleaner
please post a photo of your wires and plugs from the side of the engine without the black duct on the engine , and send here

The comment the other person made about the wire placement is REAL (ive had a cap with the 1 placed in the incorrect spot, and technically speaking the thing can run fairly well out of order or shifted, and i would like pictures of the plugs in question or take 2 out and send pictures , including the porcelain and tips where wire grabs
 
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 10:35 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by 90project5.0
Now that she’s running again, I would check for codes as well. If she’s been running rich for a while, something is off somewhere. It could be a crack or hole in exhaust before O2 sensor, O2 sensor itself or a sensor like intake air temp, coolant temp, etc that isn’t allowing the computer to adjust correctly. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be a mask and you would need a wideband O2 sensor to see actual air fuel ratio to dial it in. Just something to think about!
Yeah probably. I eventually do want to get a wideband and standalone ecu for it anyway. Already replaced the O2 in the fall so in theory shouldnt be that. I'll see if I can get the damn cap for the obd port off again when its not 20 degrees outside. New plugs helped for sure, though probably still need to adjust timing as it currently sounds like it has a cam at idle after cold starting. Unfortunately this morning it stopped working with the computer again but it drove fine with it unhooked, so thats another problem in itself to figure out
 
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 10:37 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by AuroraGirl
please post a photo of your wires and plugs from the side of the engine without the black duct on the engine , and send here

The comment the other person made about the wire placement is REAL (ive had a cap with the 1 placed in the incorrect spot, and technically speaking the thing can run fairly well out of order or shifted, and i would like pictures of the plugs in question or take 2 out and send pictures , including the porcelain and tips where wire grabs
I'll get those to ya when I get off work. Tried cleaning them up but they remained pretty black. My distributor cap has a 1 placed in the plastic on it so that makes it relatively easy to go from there
 
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 11:08 AM
  #73  
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What was unplugged during the drive? The computer? Or spout connector?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 11:14 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 90project5.0
What was unplugged during the drive? The computer? Or spout connector?
Spout. I drove it last night with the spout connected, then this morning it started and died after about 20 seconds and refused to start. Disconnected the spout again and started right up and continued to run
 
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Old Jan 20, 2026 | 11:44 AM
  #75  
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Go back to post 38 and do those tests. If it runs without spout connected, it’s computer, Tfi module or distributor.
 
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