Supplier issues can be terrible. We have an ongoing thing with one supplier that keeps sending us crap metal. I think the hemi is a design issue raising the cam in the block and the angle of the pushrods. You have to remove the head to get to the lifters.

Ford knows how to build old school. I think it's inconsistent quality in their supplier and maybe like us they need the product and don't have a good alternative except to try to hold them accountable.

We have even been to the mill where they produce the metal and they have too much variability in their process to be able to make consistent good product like our other suppliers but our other suppliers can't produce enough so we use them anyway.

It would be interesting to know if Fords camshaft supplier gets all their blanks from one place. Or if they use different suppliers for different engine groups. I think its a metal issue rather than design.
They need to get a handle on it for sure.

 

you're comparing a flat tappet cam to a roller cam. They fail differently.

 

I agree with almost all of your post. I do have one question. Do you know you have to pull the heads on the Godzilla to get the lifters out just like the hemi? Also, it's not the camshafts that fails first it's the lifters failing causing the camshafts to fail.

 

Decided to check oil pressure on my 22 with forscan after reading, I let the truck warm up about 15 minutes and dead idle pressure was bouncing between 19.6 - 20.8 psi. Was very easy to do

 

That is a very good point. Lifters are probably a crap shoot then as Ford makes some in house and uses a handful of suppliers as well including some international. I don't know if 7.3 lifters all come from one place and if they do why some last longer than others.

The 7.3 doesn't use double valve springs but tall behive instead presumably to lessen spring pressure while still being able to run high lift.

I think using top quality oil and changing it every 5k is all you can really do. Probably starting a thread to see who has the highest mileage and how many engines are at high milesge would be good data and how hard you use the truck. I know the 10 sp can keep rpm high towing heavy loads yet fingers point towards box trucks that idle a lot.

 

Agreed... My point being back 40 years ago GM learned they had a problem, identified the root cause and fixed it relatively quickly.

 

In today's day and age none of the manufacturers identify or fix issues quickly. They buy LARGE quantities from suppliers and usually wait until they've exhausted all of those before fixing an issue if they fix it at all. They are still having camera issues that started in 2017. The 10R CDF drum issue went on for 3 years before addressing it. The leaking oil pans on the 6.7s is still going on years later. It doesn't help their soft dollar bottom line to address all these issues. I am a Ford shareholder but Blackrock, Vanguard and State Street have more pull than the private shareholders.

 

I haven't seen anyone who had this done with this recall or TSB. Am I missing something? Fake recall?
I crap my pants eveytime I idle it taking my much old age needed nap in sub freezing weather on the road. Worrying how much or if any damage will be done. My dealer last summer said my vin wasn't on the list. Truck built Nov 2023.

 

The thought of a fake recall has crossed my mind too.

 

What can happen sometimes especially if reading forums is that some issues get over blown and this doesn't mean that folks aren't experiencing problems it's just that it starts to seem that every 7.3 is doomed and maybe they are?? I personally did not by a truck with the fear of it dieing and maybe it will.... who knows? But I'll use this 7.3 no different than any other gas engine that's been used in my use patterns including idling for hours on end if need be.

Forums and you boob can can regurgitate lots of garbage from users that read info and their knees start knocking from fear of lack of knowledge then spew the fear to others. Maybe I'm regurgitating garbage and just blind to it. 😕

Idle away and nap peaceful just put the exhaust pipe direction at the up wind side. 😉

 

I call this "Internet Amplification"....

 

Hey there can you confirm a few things?

Looks like non phone version of forcan and you have a 2022 7.3. What ob2 adapter are you using?

I am only able to see voltage in the android version and not the actual value you are seeing. Also using nonsupprted ob2 adapter and wondering if I need additional protocols to see that value.

 

Alright guys i'm bringing this one up from the dead because i had it bookmarked for good information, maybe what I'm sharing may help others. I have a late 2024 and I was concerned about the oil pressure at idle. So I decided I would do a little experimentation. I bought a filter sandwich adapter to add an oil pressure gauge because I'd heard the debate that the fords have switches rather than sensors. Switches are usually 1 wire, the Godzilla has a 3 wire sensor. So instead of getting a deidcated oil pressure gauge I got a Scanngauge II. They had a PID that wasn't published on their website that showed it on the gauge (they were very responsive to my questions A+).

Engine Oil Pressure (PSI)
TXD - 07E0220838
RXF - C46205083638
RXD - 3010
MTH - 001D00C8FFF2
Name - EOP

So onto the meat of it. My idle pressure (measured after towing at 82F for 1.5 hrs) is at around 19psi. Pressure through the rpm range was pretty much as expected. Nothing super surprising. Summary, I don't think oil pressure is the lifter issue root cause, at least not on the 24+.

But I had a new observation. The oil pressure was pretty darn high for the engine RPM when the engine was under load. For example when you have a conventional oil pump pressure pretty much is dependent on rpm. With the gauge on I noted when I held a long climb under load. Even at low RPM, it was getting pretty high oil pressure. For example (42% load -> 27psi) then ( 89% load -> 48psi) At 1200 RPM, same gear, just different engine load.

I know we're used to OEMs doing dumb stuff for fuel economy so the variable pump first thought is that its for fuel economy. But what if the primary reason is to increase pressure under different load conditions, even moreso than a conventional pump.

 

Couple things:

1) Did you install a manual gauge to verify the PID info? It wasn't clear in your post. We would love to see actual pressure vs. PID readings.
Three wires could be two switches, one high, and one low pressure.
It seems that for quite some time Ford has been using a calculation to output pressure readings based upon rpm and possibly other inputs, without actually reading the pressure. So they are giving you a "you have oil pressure, and here is what we think it should be, so no need to worry about anything."
On one hand, having a precise measurement available to the driver is useful info, so they can watch and be aware of potential problem before the become bigger. On the other, most people would not understand what is happening (especially with a variable pump) and would assume there might be a problem, which could cause a service nightmare.
The current "your oil pressure is perfect" gauge on the dash seems to be there just to keep people satisfied.
The PIDs might be there to give you info, in case you are looking, but still be providing a "everything is working as expected" type of readout.
If they wanted to keep it simple for the average, uniformed driver, but also provide useful info it would be cool if they took the actual reading, compared it to the calculation, and showed the difference, even if it was a red-green-red gauge. It would show if the difference was a little high/low, or getting too high/low.

2) It is likely that when towing or working hard the pump produces higher pressure to help cool the valve train. Pressure is volume times restriction. The engine's restrictions don't change, other than oil visconsiry and filter condition, so more oil flow will create higher pressure.
Going back to 1, there is a chance some people would freak out seeing the oil pressure change suddenly and assume there's a problem. Just picture the first time someone takes their brand new truck out with their camper/trailer, heading on a vacation, and they see oil pressure fluctuate. Might ruin their trip. (If they read the manual it wouldn't be so bad, but so few people do.)

 

The 20-22s have a switch. The 23+ have a sender.