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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Jul 10, 2024 | 03:27 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Shadow_D
I have no idea as to the age of the booster but if it's like a lot of other things on the truck, I'd say it's original.
I just installed a new booster on my truck. I think it was $75 from Amazon. You can get them with the master cylinder but it sounds like that ship has sailed.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2024 | 09:22 PM
  #122  
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Well again the heat, heat index, humidity and rain have not been my friend these last few days and not much has been done. Brake pedal is still pretty soft but I did manage to "test" the booster. It has a pretty strong vacuum and I can't pull the hose out of it but once the engine is off I can pop it out with a fairly large hiss and I don't hear anything leaking around it with the engine off so I think it's good. Soft pedal might caused by some trapped air in the master.
That plug actually showed up and I installed it so now I have a working fuel gauge.
I managed to address the valve cover leak, it was slightly tweaked by someone over tightening the bolts.

That's about as far as we were able to get before it got too hot the other day. Thursday looks to be a little cooler so hopefully we can get this thing buttoned up...
 
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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 07:40 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by Shadow_D
Soft pedal might caused by some trapped air in the master.
It's been disgusting here, too. I still manage to get an hour or so in after work every day. But, I don't work outside all day like you do.

There's an adjustment between the booster and the master cylinder. You did check that before installing the master, yes?

If not, you can still check/adjust it as the master can be unbolted from the booster with the lines still attached. But, yeah, soft pedal sounds more like air.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 09:06 AM
  #124  
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Yeah, you guy's in north central NY got some good storms yesterday. Cooler weather is coming later tonight.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 09:12 AM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by Bronco638
It's been disgusting here, too. I still manage to get an hour or so in after work every day. But, I don't work outside all day like you do.

There's an adjustment between the booster and the master cylinder. You did check that before installing the master, yes?

If not, you can still check/adjust it as the master can be unbolted from the booster with the lines still attached. But, yeah, soft pedal sounds more like air.
Not sure about that adjustment so no I didn't check it. Can you explain it a little better for me?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 09:15 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity
Yeah, you guy's in north central NY got some good storms yesterday. Cooler weather is coming later tonight.
Fortunately the tornados that have hit have been far enough away from me that they didn't affect me much, just been a little breezy.
Yeah the temps are going to be in the low to mid 80's the next couple of days... It'll be a welcome relief..
 
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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 09:17 AM
  #127  
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I know it's been talked about here, but here, I have not had to do this, but others on here have.

I refined the search to a 1984

https://www.google.com/search?q=mast...t=gws-wiz-serp
 
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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 10:51 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Shadow_D
Not sure about that adjustment so no I didn't check it. Can you explain it a little better for me?
When you bolt the master cylinder to the booster, there's a push rod that protrudes from the booter (the rod actuates the master cylinder). The tip is adjustable although my shop manual does not mention how to adjust it (I think the shop manual for my '85 Ranger had the procedure) or what the measurement is supposed to be. IIRC, the rod is supposed to be just over an inch (1 1/8"?) so that it engages and disengages the master properly. I checked my new booster and it was spot on so maybe they come pre-set?

If you re-bleed the system and the issue is resolved, then it was air. If not resolved, then it might be something to check, the push rod could be slightly short.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 01:41 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Bronco638
When you bolt the master cylinder to the booster, there's a push rod that protrudes from the booter (the rod actuates the master cylinder). The tip is adjustable although my shop manual does not mention how to adjust it (I think the shop manual for my '85 Ranger had the procedure) or what the measurement is supposed to be. IIRC, the rod is supposed to be just over an inch (1 1/8"?) so that it engages and disengages the master properly. I checked my new booster and it was spot on so maybe they come pre-set?

If you re-bleed the system and the issue is resolved, then it was air. If not resolved, then it might be something to check, the push rod could be slightly short.
I dont know how long it should be but the book shows there is a Ford tool you use to measure / set it to.
This tool is like a U with a measurement in the center. You fit the U over the rod so the "feet" set on the booster and the rod should just touch the inside of the U.
The measurement is just under 1 inch something like .9xxx IIRC
Think I set mine a pee pee hair under the 1" mark and it has been ok.
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 17, 2024 | 01:43 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity
I know it's been talked about here, but here, I have not had to do this, but others on here have.

I refined the search to a 1984

https://www.google.com/search?q=mast...t=gws-wiz-serp
That search did the trick... I found a thread here on FTE that explained it however the measurements were for the F-350 and are different than the F-150...

Originally Posted by Bronco638
When you bolt the master cylinder to the booster, there's a push rod that protrudes from the booter (the rod actuates the master cylinder). The tip is adjustable although my shop manual does not mention how to adjust it (I think the shop manual for my '85 Ranger had the procedure) or what the measurement is supposed to be. IIRC, the rod is supposed to be just over an inch (1 1/8"?) so that it engages and disengages the master properly. I checked my new booster and it was spot on so maybe they come pre-set?

If you re-bleed the system and the issue is resolved, then it was air. If not resolved, then it might be something to check, the push rod could be slightly short.
I plan to rebleed the system again just to be sure there isn't any air then I'll check that adjustment if they are still soft.

​​​​​​​Thank you guys!
 
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 07:41 AM
  #131  
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I think Dave @FuzzFace2 might be correct, just under one inch.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 08:20 AM
  #132  
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I’ve been trying to upload a screenshot from my Haynes manual since last night but I guess the file type isn’t allowed as it just hangs in the process. Either way, per the manual, the measurement is 0.995” of exposed pushrod from the booster.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 08:25 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Staticbuster
I’ve been trying to upload a screenshot from my Haynes manual since last night but I guess the file type isn’t allowed as it just hangs in the process. Either way, per the manual, the measurement is 0.995” of exposed pushrod from the booster.
You can always take a picture of the page and load it like you load pictures to your files.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 10:16 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Staticbuster
I’ve been trying to upload a screenshot from my Haynes manual since last night but I guess the file type isn’t allowed as it just hangs in the process. Either way, per the manual, the measurement is 0.995” of exposed pushrod from the booster.
See I told you just a Pee Pee hair under 1 inch
BTW my rebuilt booster that adjustment was loose and if I did not have issues getting a good pedal I dont know if I would have ever checked it?
Dave ----
 
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Old Jul 18, 2024 | 11:29 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by Max Capacity
You can always take a picture of the page and load it like you load pictures to your files.
True, but I’m at work and the paper book is in my truck at home.
 
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