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That is not stamped like any of the Holley'S I have or seen
All the ones I have seen use number stamps. Yours looks like they took a punch and just made a bunch of punches to make the numbers?
If all you can find is the 1850-10 then I guess that is all you can go by as a start.
Dave ----
1850 is a very common 600 cfm carb that they have made for years. It's all I used to run. Your manual choke is very simple. Just grab the lever and move it to shut the choke. The throttle should open some as you shut the choke. There is a screw on it somewhere that you can adjust the ratio of how much the choke is shut versus the rpm the engine is turning.
Work on this project took a turn that I wasn't expecting and now I need to make a big decision, a decision I wasn't planning to make until phase 2... We got the carb tuned just about perfect as in we got the backfiring through the carb to just about stop and there was slight hesitation then she backfired through the exhaust. I know this was caused by the distributor moving because I forgot to tighten it back down after making sure the chain didn't stretch. This backfire was hard enough to blow out the valve device on the driver side manifold (Not sure exactly what it is). I can't tell if it's part of the manifold or if it bolts between it and the pipe. Either way it's not going to be easy to get off without breaking things. If it actually is part of the manifold and I brake it that will force me to get a new manifold and if I'm doing that I'd prefer getting headers. My original plan was to swap out the 351 for a IL6 300 but I've been back and forth in my head as to weather I should or not. On one hand keeping the 351 would keep in line with original but on the other hand the 300 will help save on fuel costs and should still be powerful enough to do what I need this truck to do (hauling landscaping trailers and some plowing).
If I decide to do the swap, I can get an EFI 300 out of a local boneyard for $300 - $400. First thing that I would need to do to that motor, besides making sure it isn't bad, is get rid of the EFI and get a carb and intake. I'm thinking the EFI because they have the split exhaust manifolds. This motor should bolt up to my C6 but there are going to be other things that I'll need to convert to make it work.
On the other hand, I've invested a lot of time and funds into the 351 to get it running and I'm sure I could recoup most if I sell it as a good running 351 is easier to sell as opposed to a non running engine.
Honestly I'm kinda leaning toward keeping the 351 and fixing things.
Like I said, I don't know what this part is. I had to have my buddy crawl under the truck and take a picture of it and I'll attach it here... IF it's not part of the manifold I'd like to take it out of the equation but then I'm left with about a 1-2" gap that I would need to fill somehow. Maybe I can cut the butterfly out of it and plug weld the hole and be done with it??? Hopefully some of you have dealt with this and can help point me in the right direction...
The sad part of this is I thought yesterday was going to be the day I got the truck inspected and had planned to bring the truck to a local car group gathering last night
Ok so I did a fair amount of research on this issue today and some things I learned...
1) This valve (heat riser) is most likely the culprit causing the backfiring through the carb due to it not being locked open.
2) To remove it will be a bit of a PITA and I'll most likely damage the manifold while doing so. I could wire it open and that might solve the running issues but it won't fix the exhaust leak issue I now have.
3) The manifolds tend to rot out especially if the vehicle has been sitting. This truck has been sitting since 2005 as far as I can tell. So in a nutshell I expect that there is already damage to at least this manifold.
4) If I need to replace the manifold / s I should replace them with headers, this is assuming I keep this engine.
5) If I go with headers I will need to rebuild the exhaust system, this is something I'll need to do no mater which way I go with the engine swap idea. The more I think about it, the more I think I'm going to keep the 351 at least for now...
6) I priced out having a shop do the exhaust work and found that there is only 1 place locally that would even think about doing the job and they said the starting price would be in the $1500 range...
There's a really good video on the tube of you I found regarding the easiest way to remove exhaust manifolds without snapping bolts so I plan to attempt that this weekend.
I've been looking on the Marketplace of FB and found a couple of sets of "Shorty" headers for around $100 that I might go for that are listed as SBF or 302 however I've found conflicting information that a set for a 302 will not work on a 351W. Can anyone confirm any of this information?
IF I can get the manifolds off without braking any of the bolts this weekend that will save a huge chunk of money as that muffler shop would only need to make a set of pipes to go from the headers down to about where the stock muffler would be and I can finish with a pair of "Cheerybombs" I have from my race car build days that I never used. Next question is what is the advantage of a crossover or "H" in a dual exhaust system? I know it has something to do with equalization or something like that...
Is that the passenger side? If you look the manifolds up (just go to rockauto to get a selection and some part numbers) you should be able to find a manifold that did not have the hear riser provision.
When you get it apart, you will find the stock y-pipe will have a flare on it, and sort of look like a huge brake line. The heat riser will have a "ball socket" that accepts that flare and seals it. The actual manifold is flat where the heat riser bolts to it with a gasket. But usually you can find a manifold that is a little longer and has the ball socket made onto the manifold like the driver's side. Ford made both versions.
I would not go to headers. As you already stated the whole exhaust will have to be modfied, and another reason you can't find anyone to do it, technically it's not legal to put headers on it unless you get some shorties that are carb certified and accept the original y-pipe. You could probably go to shorties if it's not a manual transmission, but you will have to pick a later 351w that had EFI and you will have to plug the O2 sensor holes.
Look up and see if you can find a stock manifold for the pass side with the ball socket on it.
Is that the passenger side? If you look the manifolds up (just go to rockauto to get a selection and some part numbers) you should be able to find a manifold that did not have the hear riser provision.
When you get it apart, you will find the stock y-pipe will have a flare on it, and sort of look like a huge brake line. The heat riser will have a "ball socket" that accepts that flare and seals it. The actual manifold is flat where the heat riser bolts to it with a gasket. But usually you can find a manifold that is a little longer and has the ball socket made onto the manifold like the driver's side. Ford made both versions.
I would not go to headers. As you already stated the whole exhaust will have to be modfied, and another reason you can't find anyone to do it, technically it's not legal to put headers on it unless you get some shorties that are carb certified and accept the original y-pipe. You could probably go to shorties if it's not a manual transmission, but you will have to pick a later 351w that had EFI and you will have to plug the O2 sensor holes.
Look up and see if you can find a stock manifold for the pass side with the ball socket on it.
this is the driver side.
the guy that said he would do it but if it comes into his shop with cats he, by law, must replace them BUT if it doesn't he doesn't have to...
The trans is automatic (C6)
Here is the left side with no heat riser. I had to go to the year 1988 to find it. You can see it is universal, and comes with a plug for the O2 sensor and the AIR fittings.
I can tell you from that picture there is nothing left of the nuts & studs holding the Y pipe to the manifold so they will snap.
Not even heat will work on them. I would look into replacing both manifolds.
Then you can get a replacement Y pipe on back from the parts store / Rock Auto and install it in your drive.
Just get pipe to replace the cat.
BTW I would stay with the 351 over the 300 being you have a 351 and money into it.
Yes my truck dose have a 300 and I like it a lot.
I also used a 66 Bronco with a six to plow snow with around the shop I had. Low range was the only way to do it!
Dave ----
@shadow_d what's this great video you speak of? I'll one day be pulling the long pipe headers from my truck and they look pretty crusty, so I'm all for any info I can get.
@shadow_d what's this great video you speak of? I'll one day be pulling the long pipe headers from my truck and they look pretty crusty, so I'm all for any info I can get.
If I need to replace the manifold / s I should replace them with headers…
Myself, I’m a card-carrying member of The He-Man Header Haters Club.
Now if you had asked how you can bake the starter to decrease its lifespan? Or how to increase the likelihood of vapor lock by increasing underhood temperature? For either question, the answer is a resounding yes to install underhood heaters headers. Otherwise? Not so much…
Hey Darrin, how did you fix the lifted traces? I notice I have three lifting where the tracing ends, in the rectangular well where the wiring connector goes. TIA.
Hey Darrin, how did you fix the lifted traces? I notice I have three lifting where the tracing ends, in the rectangular well where the wiring connector goes. TIA.
Superglue the traces to the clear plastic. Works very good.
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