It's in my sig Dave...
1984 Ford F-150 4x4 Long Bed 351W Vin Code "H" C6 Trans

 

My truck has (had) this same bracket. All the emissions stuff was hacked out before I got it, so this is how it looked when the truck came to me:


But same as yours, mine is a 351w 4x4 C6. Since this didn’t seem to go to anything I pulled it off. I’m definitely interested in finding out what it was for.

 

If it had vacuum lines going to them as it looks to have, then they should be on the vacuum line routing sticker on the radiator support.
It will not say the full name but have 2 but most likely 3 letters ie: EVC Egr Vacuum Control (just made up)
Once we know that the letters are we can then tell you what they are and maybe what they did.
Dave ----

 

Unfortunately that sticker was damaged but is mostly readable. IF I'm reading the diagram correctly, it looks like the 2 valves / switches would be 2 "SOL V" & 1 "VCS".
The only things that have vacuum connected, that I can tell, are the Dist, Cruise Control, HVAC, Brake Booster and a line that goes to the trans. There is no PCV, EGR or anything going to the exhaust.

The last 4 pictures are of my latest purchase. I've deemed the original carburetor beyond repair so I got a "new" carb. This carb appears to only be a couple of years old and the only reason it was replaced is the woman that drove the car it was installed on kept forgetting to open/close the manual choke and didn't know enough to be able to instal an electric choke so she just bought a new carb. Other than that, the carb ran great. Today I will be swapping the electric choke from my original carb and installing this one and tuning it. Right now this is the only thing keeping me from driving this truck and if all goes well I will finally be able to do the first test drive this afternoon!




The black mark is damage to the sticker and NOT dirt.


This is the "AUX Elec Panel I made. It's still a work in progress but it's in operation. I will be cleaning it up once I get the rest of the equipment installed.

 

I installed the "new" carb today! I needed to swap the linkage from the old one due to the fact that the "new" linkage was for a 71 Plymouth Roadrunner. The original plan was to swap the baseplate with the linkage but that proved fatal as I found about 5 or 6 cracks that were causing vacuum leaks which in turn was the main issue that I couldn't find before. So after pulling the butterflies I was able to pull the linkage off and swap it to the new carb. Popped it on the truck and did some fine tuning and got her idling beautifully. I hadn't her this truck run this smooth... All was great until I hit the throttle. She fell flat on her face and popped flames out the carb, same as before. Adjust the accelerator pump and try again, a little better this time but not much. Turns out the Accelerator Pump cam was warn to almost nothing so I swapped the new one and it ran a lot but she still kept popping and stumbling but not as much. Turns out that cam is also a little too small so now I'm on the hunt for another cam that is bigger...

I did some work on the HVAC today and found that the controls are actually working, I'm just not getting much air flow. I need to pull the heater core and the AC condenser to look for blockages. I'm pretty sure I'll find the AC to be clogged as there's signs of oil leaking out ot it. Not too sure what I'll find with the heater core but I suspect that too will be clogged. I might pull the blower motor to make sure it's still fully intact as well. Maybe tomorrow afternoon I'll finally be able to drive her around the block, I've got a fairly steep hill at the end of my street that should be a good test...

 

This looks like some idiot tried to take it off without unbolting it. The bottom photo looks like casting marks with carbon buildup. It's been a long time since I had bought a base plate, so I imagine that they're expensive. I looked at a carb that I was going to suggest and it's now $200 more than when I bought mine. Of course it was kinda pointless as there didn't seem to be a listing for Ford's🤨. On the plus side is you shouldn't have to worry about the power valve blowing. But if it was installed and taken off for any length of time it needs a rebuild kit. This is the only drawback to Holley. Get the one with the reusable fuel bowl gaskets. That way if it needs to sit more than a month, clean it out. It may or may not need to be rejetted but you won't find out until you drive it. What state are you in?

 

The carb only sat for about a month and the bowls did still have fuel in them. It's running great except for the lean popping when I get on it. Currently, I found a set of cams that I'm printing out on my 3D resin printer to try out today.
I'm in the Albany, NY area...

 

Besides the cam what size is the nozzle? Think most are 28 and I find then too small.
I go with 31 and the tube type have worked the best for me.

You did not say what your vacuum is at idle in gear at normal temp?
IIRC you start at half that on the power valve and adjust from there.
Dave ----

 

I hate to say this but I don't know what nozzles are in it and I don't remember what the vacuum gauge was reading.

I finally got'er out for the test drive today! This gave me more things I need to address...
1st She was actually running rich and still popping which is making me think I'm flooding her when I get on the throttle... We will work on getting the mix right before we work out the popping issue.
2nd The steering was all over the place. I had about quarter turn of play and she's pulling to the right.
I need to tighten up the steering box then I'll see if I will worry about the pulling later.
3rd The valve cover is still leaking on the passenger side so that'll need to be addressed.

I only put 2 miles on her but I was so happy to finally get to drive her...

 

Post #178 said something about back firing up out of the carb and blowing out the power valve (PV).
If that is blown it will leak and run rich.

You first need to check the float level and set it. To high or low it will run rich or lean.
Motor up to temp, adjust the idle speed and then mixture.
After the mixture that you adjusted with a vacuum gauge drop it in gear and see what the vacuum is and note it.
As a start the PV is half of vacuum in gear.

Also you should stop the secondary from opening and only work on the primary side.
Once you get that working right then work the other half.
Dave ----

 

Thanks for the info Dave. After post 184 it's a new carb. Depending on how I feel tomorrow I'll go out and start from scratch (I'm still in a fair amount of pain from the pinched nerve and shoulder issues)... 1st I'm going to pull #1 and roll it over by hand just to be sure the timing mark is true TDC. Next reset the needles to 1.5 turns out then open the caps to see where the fuel is... Then use the vacuum gauge and adjust the needles for max vac. Once that done I'll adjust the idle speed as needed. After that I'll check the timing and adjust as needed. That should get me in the ballpark.Then we'll see...

 

Sounds like a good plan.

I just was pointing out if the carb you have on it backed fired and it does not have the back fire check you could of blown the PV
Dont push your self the truck will be there when you are better and it run so if you have to move it you can.
Good luck
Dave ----

 

I love it when a plan falls to pieces...
Being the fact that I am not in a building doing any of this work but under a couple of EZ-Ups I'm at the mercy of Mother Nature. I neglected to check the weather for yesterday and went out to start working as I normally would. I first went to the gas station and got 10G of fuel so I was sure there was enough fuel in her for the test drive later. I also reattached the fuel fills to the bed as I had forgotten to do that the other day. Then I moved to the engine bay and literally 5 minutes after I got setup with tools and equipment needed and climbed under the hood, the sky opened up... I got as far as closing the needles and turning them out 1.5 turns (they were 2 turns out BTY) before I had to scramble to get everything back inside. I decided to have lunch on my front porch and just relax. After about an hour it was drying out and the sun started to come out so I went back to work. I cleared the EZ-Ups of the water that had collected then started to get ready and the rain came back... I guess yesterday I wasn't supposed to work on things.
A little history on this "new" carb I got. The person I bought it from had it installed and running well on a 71 Plymouth Roadrunner with a 383. Now it makes sense as to why she's running so rich...

 

What size is the carb 600 / 650 larger?
You can go to Holley's web site with the list number, it is on the choke horn, to see what it left the factory with for jets, pump cams, pump size & squirter(s), vacuum spring and power valve,etc. It could be the other person made changes to that carb, jets, PV, squirter, cam or even the pump size to work with the 383 motor.

When you can take a vacuum reading at hot idle in gear. The power valve should be half what that vacuum reading is as a start. If it is open at idle it will run rich.
2 turns out is not that bad as some say 1.5 to 2 turns out as a start on a rebuild.
Dave ----

 

That's the strange thing... I put the number in but it doesn't show on Holley's site or even in their carb list... It took me a bit to find a manual for it but not exact. The closest one I found was 1850-10, mine is 1850-16. I'm sure they are the same carb and I'm positive it's a 4160, 600 CFM with a manual choke but that's all I'm sure of. Most everything else should be the same but that different number tells me that they changed something. Could be the jets or anything really...
Below is a pic of the numbers on the horn...

Something else that I need to check is if the choke is actually working properly. I've looked at it but just didn't pay attention to it and when I do look at it the butterflies are wide open. Next time I'm working on it (today or tomorrow) I'll double check it...