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After rinsing the pollen off yesterday, I was thinking maybe this year I may need to give it a little more rustoelum in a few spots. LOL It does run well, which is the important thing, I have been driving it a little more lately.
So the last few days have been quite busy... There aren't many pictures but my buddy and I have managed to check off a few items on the completion list...
Rear axle cleaned and painted.
Leaf Spring cleaned and painted, bushings replaced
Complete Rear brake job: Drums, Shoes, Hardware, Cylinders, Hard Lines, Hose and "E" Brake Cables all replaced
Frame Work: New Rear Spring Hangers, Shock Tower Installed, Crossmembers painted and installed ( I ended up using the old diagonal brace from the passenger side for the fuel tank hanger and put the "bad" one on the passenger side).
New brake line from the Porp valve to the hose
Rear Fuel Tank repaired and painted, rear tank straps (upper & lower) painted. Will be installed this weekend.
Old core support removed, new core support painted. Frame area under support encapsulated. New support will be installed this weekend as the mounting hardware will arrive today along with the battery tray.
Front "E" Brake cable installed
Remount axle to to frame. Truck is now sitting on the axle again. Still need to flush the pumpkin.
Gauge Cluster: Repaired the circuit trace and cleaned & applied di-electric grease to all electrical connections.
Items still on the Phase 1 "To-Do" list...
Remove broken valve cover bolt
Change oil filter
install front fuel tank (Will need to steal the sending unit wiring plug from the 86).
Replace rear sway bar bushings and reinstall.
Check Power Steering. Hose might be bad
Repair trans cooling lines to radiator
Replace front brake calipers, hoses and hard lines.
Flush & Fill Rear Diff.
Replace "U" Joint at Diff.
Sand and paint drive shaft.
Clean & Buff rear of cab
Reinstall trailer hitch, bumper and bed.
Install new fuel filters before the selector valve
Pull HVAC ducts and repair the door. (Unknown if it's bad yet but I'll make the repair now as the dash is already apart)
Clean & Paint new "West Coast Style" Mirrors and install. (Mirrors came off a Ford Motorhome)
Test fire and tune carb. (Truck should be running on it's own at this point)
Wash engine bay...
At this point Phase 1 should be complete! There may be other things I didn't think about that pop up. Cluster Restored None of the traces were broken just lifting Lifted traces Lifted traces Lifted traces Rear Fuel Tank Painted Core Support Sitting on it's axle!
Superglue works great for gluing the copper back down onto the plastic. The critical area is where the large wiring plug inserts into the cluster. Often you will have copper traces that get krinkled in this area. Again, super glue works well for gluing them down after you carefully straighten them back out.
Superglue works great for gluing the copper back down onto the plastic. The critical area is where the large wiring plug inserts into the cluster. Often you will have copper traces that get krinkled in this area. Again, super glue works well for gluing them down after you carefully straighten them back out.
Well I haven't posted much lately because not much has been done these past few days. It's not easy working under EZ-UPs when the weather is "Hell's Front Door". I did attempt to cross off some items on my list but I've been having issues...
Items still on the Phase 1 "To-Do" list... Remove broken valve cover bolt I drilled and tried to use an ez out but that failed so I ordered a Helicoil set. Maybe next week when the weather is cooler and dryer. Change oil filter install front fuel tank (Will need to steal the sending unit wiring plug from the 86). I decided that getting the correct sending unit rather than trying to modify the wiring would be a better idea. Plus I don't know what the condition of the old sending unit is. New one on order. Replace rear sway bar bushings and reinstall. Check Power Steering. Hose might be bad Repair trans cooling lines to radiator Replace front brake calipers, hoses and hard lines. Flush & Fill Rear Diff. Replace "U" Joint at Diff. This is one of those items that I'm really stuck with. My buddy and I tried for a few hours beating on it, heating it and using my 12 Ton press and couldn't get it to break free. I am going to check with someone I know to see if they have a bigger press... Sand and paint drive shaft. Not until I replace the "U" Joint Clean & Buff rear of cab Not when it's 95+ degrees out. Reinstall trailer hitch, bumper and bed. Install new fuel filters before the selector valve Pull HVAC ducts and repair the door. (Unknown if it's bad yet but I'll make the repair now as the dash is already apart) I might put this on hold til phase two at this point. Clean & Paint new "West Coast Style" Mirrors and install. (Mirrors came off a Ford Motorhome) Started to clean them but I need my sandblaster and that is in my storage location and needs some work. Test fire and tune carb. (Truck should be running on it's own at this point) I can't do this until the valve cover bolt is fixed and the front end is reinstalled.
Wash engine bay Same as above
Items I forgot to put on the list above...
R&R the core support SEE NOTE BELOW
Rear fuel tank reinstall. DONE!
Install new rear shocks.DONE!
Secure the new "E" brake cables to the frame
Bleed rear brake lines DONE!
Secure the fuel lines, brake line and electrical lines. DONE!
Modify the "bushing" that goes over the front "E" brake cable where it goes through the floorboard.
Remove the bumperettes so that I can fix them and reinstall
Core Support Note: The old support is out of the truck but I needed to repair the crossmember that sits under it. Someone hooked a chain or something to pull it out of something and twisted it all to hell. Once I straightened it out I encapsulated it... I'll reinstall it once I get the valve cover bolt fixed as it is easier to get to it with the support out of the way.
The trans cooler lines are something I need to figure out. I haven't found any new, pre bent replacement lines so I'm thinking I might be able to slip some rubber hoses over them and clamp them tight but IDK if that'll work.
I had planned to have everything buttoned up so that I could drive her next weekend but it doesn't look like I'm gonna hit that goal, there's still too many items that need to be checked off the list.
Just like brake lines, you should be able to go to the store and get universal Ni-Copp lines in 5/16 and 3/8 sizes. And then you can bend your own new transmission lines. The Ni-Copp is very easy to bend. An no worries later on about long pieces of rubber hose cracking and leaking.
Just like brake lines, you should be able to go to the store and get universal Ni-Copp lines in 5/16 and 3/8 sizes. And then you can bend your own new transmission lines. The Ni-Copp is very easy to bend. An no worries later on about long pieces of rubber hose cracking and leaking.
I was actually thinking about that as a probability. Thanks Dave.
So the last couple of days have been very productive.
Items that have been checked off the list...
Rear diff flush and fill: CHECK I'm actually glad I opened the rear diff as it had a fair amount of water in it and there was a coating of rust on some of the mounting hardware and rust sludge that came out of the tubes. There was so much that I think I'm going to do this again during the 2nd phase of this job.
Valve Cover bolt repaired. I reluctantly used a "Helicoil" as the bolt would not come out at all
Trans cooler line repair. I ended up just using a rubber hose for now and will replace the lines during the 2nd phase.
Core Support and Radiator installed
Battery Tray Replaced.
Installed the fuel tank.
Replace "U" Joint. The one I got was wrong and need to exchange it. I worked on the old one and was able to pop it out.
Items to be done today:
Double check all nuts & bolts making sure they are tight.
Replace front calipers and hoses.
Flush cooling system / check for leaks.
Reassemble the dash.
Install rear bumper and trailer hitch.
Scratch my head trying to think of anything I may have forgotten....
Test fire!
You got a lot done
Some times a white board and markers works wonders like this.
Mark down the jobs you know you have and as you get them done cross it off.
Dont remove it, cross it out as done. This way you can look back and see just what you did.
If you remove it the list is still there and may look like nothing has been done.
Even more so to cross it off because as you work you may be adding things to the list and it will really look like nothing was done.
Dave ----
Trans cooler line repair. I ended up just using a rubber hose for now and will replace the lines during the 2nd phase.
I tried to reply to your PM but your inbox is full.
I do have about 50% of the trans cooler lines after all. Both have the flare nuts to connect to the trans and looks like both were cut near the front of the engine. You may not want to put them on your truck but you could use them as patterns to make new ones. I also have two of the O.E. support brackets (that attach to the engine block, I think, to support those lines). LMK you you want them.
Sadly, not much interested in the tailgate. Looks like it's headed to the scrapper.
You should flush the old brake fluid out also. We like to use a power bleeder, like the Motive Power Bleeder. Summit Racing them for a decent price. You can get qt's of DOT3 from Walmart for about $8.00 each.
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