Yes they are Yellow/White LED flashers that I will most likely remove because they weren't available till the 2000's and don't fit the era.I did test them and they do work. Besides white flashing lights are not legal in NY for civi vehicles and I don't need the headache.

 

For cleaning the parts, maybe contact a local auto machine shop and see what they will charge to run them through the "hot tank".

 

I was thinking that as well... I'm assuming it would be best to disassemble the heads before hot tanking?

Side note... I bought a set of service manuals on CD off "Fleebay" to put on my laptop for use at the shop, there's no interwebs at the shop, and I found a discrepancy. In the vin breakdown, under the engine code, it says code "H" is supposed to be a 6.1L 370 big block but everywhere else it is supposed to be a 351W carbureted engine. I'm 99.9% positive it really is supposed to be the 351W and the book is wrong. The copy I have was scanned from the actual "1984 FORD TRUCK SHOP MANUAL PRE-DELIVERY LUBRICATION MAINTENANCE LIGHT MEDIUM HEAVY"
I'll attach a PDF copy of said page below...

 

I have a 07 Crown Vic and I cant remember if it is the owners manual or on like but my VIN for motor dose not show up in some places and not for a Flex Fuel car as it has the badge for it.
I would not run E85 unless I really had to but found it strange it not being listed.

Gary's sight has also come up with wrong information in the Ford factory books and when its posted on the sight a note is made saying so.
Dave ----

 

So the last couple of weeks have been very slow and not a lot has been completed as I've been busy with work. I did manage to locate the primary source of the oil leak. All along I had been thinking it was the rear main seal and the passenger side valve cover gasket (I still need to drill out and fix the broken bolt, it currently has a helicoil that didn't seat correctly) but, now that the truck is being driven more, I've been seeing more oil in other spots on the engine. The oil pressure valve in the oil pump is stuck or not opening and closing properly and oil is bubbling out of the breather on the valve cover and the dipstick. So at this point when I pull the motor, I will be replacing the pump and cleaning the pickup tube. The local machine shop is going to get the heads for hot tanking and properly fixing that broken bolt.
I think I found that noise I was chasing. I believe it's coming from the transfer case but I haven't gotten under the truck to check the oil level yet.
This weekend I did finish the intake manifold. I decided to powdercoat it and it came out great, the water neck didn't turn out as well as I had hoped but it still looks good. I still need to do a little bit of cleanup on the intake. I also took Red to a swap meet / car display show on Sunday. No prizes were awarded to any of the shown vehicles but I did have a good time.
As per usual, here are the latest batch of photos.

 

I hate to tell you this but if you have oil being pushed out the dipstick and breather, this should go to the air filter and if so check it for oil.
It is caused by bad rings and blow by. You can check the PCV to see if it rattles when you shake it, motor off. Or it could be the wrong one for the motor.
If the PCV was working and blow by not bad, if you remove the oil fill cap and hole your hand or paper over the hole it should get pulled to the hole and no smoke blowing out.

If the oil pump bypass was not working, it could blow the oil filter apart.
If you had an aftermarket oil gauge you should be able to see the psi spike when the bypass was not working.
How many miles on the motor?
Just my .02
Dave ----

 

Mileage is 138K
I did a compression check and the numbers were all good, tho I don't remember what they were off the top of my head.
There is no PCV valve, it wasn't there when I got it so I put in a breather filter.
In the coming weeks I plan to pull the motor and check it out.

 

Well that is the problem, no PCV!
The valve pulls the blowby vapors out of the crank case and burns them.
Where you have that filter in the right valve cover is where the PCV should be.
In the other valve cover there should be a oil fill cap that has a grommet / fitting and hose that goes up to the air filter where there is a small filter inside.

Air comes in the air filter thru the that little filter, down the hose and into the left valve cover, thru the motor and out the right valve cover, PCV and burned in the motor.
With out the PCV the blowby pressure just builds up and out that filter you have in the right valve cover.
https://www.agriculture.com/machiner...ine-is-crucial
Dave ----