When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well not much was done to Ol' Red Friday due to rain so we worked on some lawn mowers and yesterday I spent the day doing some cleanup and research.
The one thing that is currently stumping me is the Holley Carb and trying to find a rebuild kit for it. The number is 2383 but the Holley website says it doesn't exist. I remember reading somewhere that it's based off the 600 but I am not positive about it. Napa did tell me that they showed 3 kits, this is before I had the number, and the price was between $100 - $175... I don't remember carb kits being that expensive... Can anyone point me in the right direction of a less expensive rebuild kit?
Well not much was done to Ol' Red Friday due to rain so we worked on some lawn mowers and yesterday I spent the day doing some cleanup and research.
The one thing that is currently stumping me is the Holley Carb and trying to find a rebuild kit for it. The number is 2383 but the Holley website says it doesn't exist. I remember reading somewhere that it's based off the 600 but I am not positive about it. Napa did tell me that they showed 3 kits, this is before I had the number, and the price was between $100 - $175... I don't remember carb kits being that expensive... Can anyone point me in the right direction of a less expensive rebuild kit?
Are you stuck on using the original carb? It was calibrated for emissions and has lots of ports on it for things you will not use if you take the emissions stuff off the engine. Any generic holley 600 or Edelbrock carb will bolt on. I personally like the holley #1850 600 cfm with manual choke. A new one is around $400. But you may be able to find one used.
Rock Auto has a rebuild kit for $58.79 It is a Standard Motor Products 1440B. They also have a WVE 2G1910. Your carb is a 4180C.
I plugged in standard motor products 1440B in google and Amazon has it for about $90. Summit for $77, ebay $68, etc. I did not try the WVE 2G1910.
Are you stuck on using the original carb? It was calibrated for emissions and has lots of ports on it for things you will not use if you take the emissions stuff off the engine. Any generic holley 600 or Edelbrock carb will bolt on. I personally like the holley #1850 600 cfm with manual choke. A new one is around $400. But you may be able to find one used.
Rock Auto has a rebuild kit for $58.79 It is a Standard Motor Products 1440B. They also have a WVE 2G1910. Your carb is a 4180C.
I plugged in standard motor products 1440B in google and Amazon has it for about $90. Summit for $77, ebay $68, etc. I did not try the WVE 2G1910.
Thanks Dave... Yeah the plan is, for now anyway, to use the stock carb to save a little scratch. I plan to swap the 351 for a 4.9 300 in the near future. Once I find the 300 and get it in I plan to sell the 351.
$60 is a whole lot better than $100 for a rebuild kit. I was going off the numbers on the front (2383) and nothing was coming up. 4180 seems like a better number.
Thanks Dave... Yeah the plan is, for now anyway, to use the stock carb to save a little scratch. I plan to swap the 351 for a 4.9 300 in the near future. Once I find the 300 and get it in I plan to sell the 351.
$60 is a whole lot better than $100 for a rebuild kit. I was going off the numbers on the front (2383) and nothing was coming up. 4180 seems like a better number.
You have to "love" the 300 six to purposely swap it in. It has somewhat a cult following, but in comparison your 351w will run circles around it. I suppose the 300 six is like the old 7.3 non-turbo diesel I have in my truck. A very reliable workhorse, but a powerhouse it is not.
Well today was productive.
We got the box off and I had a little surprise... Thankfully the front tank on the 86 looks fairly new so that's getting swapped.
We also worked on the engine trying to get it to start but it wouldn't run on it's own. 95% sure it's the fuel pump. New pump and filter is on order from NAPA.
I put fuel into the rear tank and after about 3 or 4 gallons we found a substantial leak. Lost about 1/4 gallon before I was able to get a pan under it. I'm going to use some JB fuel tank putty as a temporary fix just to get the truck to run on it's own. I'm also going to check the rear tank on the 86 to see if that one is good.
Another surprise was the rear tank strap on the front tank, it's rotted where it mounts to the frame. Not sure if I can get a replacement or if I need to try to salvage the cross member or just the part where the tank strap is off the 86. That crossmember does have a couple of rot holes in it but they are very small. I might even be able to mig the holes before I treat the rust.
A 40 year old Ford with no rot... I knew it was too good to be true... I found the rear cab corner & cross brace / cab mount on the driver's side to be rotted. It's significant but early enough to not be a big deal I hope... You can kinda see it in the picture above.
I had to get a set of valve cover gaskets. When I was putting oil in some of it was leaking out and onto the exhaust so I picked up some engine cleaner and a couple of other things as well.
All in all it was a little disappointing today but still not quite to the point of asking myself WTF did I get myself into... I knew there was going to be work needed.
@Franklin2 Yeah I know it's a little different. I used to have a Bronco with the same 351W and that thing would pass everything except a gas station and that's partly my own fault... I had a K&N and a Flowmaster on it and I couldn't keep my foot off the floorboard because I loved the sound... That 300 is bulletproof and has a lot of low end but the top end isn't so hot. I might do some upgrades to it after I see how it runs.
Yesterday was a real step forward. After replacing the spark plugs and fuel pump she fired right up and idles smooth as silk. I can't believe how smooth she's runnin. Need to replace the accelerator pump and really work on the throttle linkage but not bad after sitting 20 years according to the PO. I need to swap the front fuel tank and maybe the rear one as well but hey at least she's running on her own.
Today's plan and for the rest of the week...
1) Replace accelerator pump
2) Replace valve cover gaskets
3) Start pulling the rad support out of the donor truck
4) Pull the front tank out of the donor truck and check the strap mounting brackets. **Maybe I'll get lucky and it'll be in good shape**
5) Take everything off the frame, wire brush it and paint with rust encapsulator
I might get to more this week or I may not... It all depends on the weather lol
Glad to hear she started and idled, must make you feel good. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with to hang that tank...
Yeah it really felt great to hear her purring.
I was looking at the parts truck today and that hanger looks to be in decent shape so we'll be taking that out maybe tomorrow or Monday.
Yeah well... LOL
So progress was made today. We managed to get both tanks out, removed the trailer hitch run the wire wheel over most of the frame and worked on the carb. Replaced the accelerator pump and free up the linkage, the secondaries are still stuck pretty good but they are starting to get looser.
I've set a goal that I want to have this truck in use next Friday. I know it'll be tough but I think we can pull it off.
I was under my truck this weekend and thought about your issue with this support. Instead of trying to fab a brace, how about a rectangular/square piece of plate that goes behind the brace (and between the x-member)? Then, cut that triangular hole and use the tank strap and weight of the tank to hold that piece of plate in-place. I can provide the dimensions for the triangular hole, if you'd like.
I was under my truck this weekend and thought about your issue with this support. Instead of trying to fab a brace, how about a rectangular/square piece of plate that goes behind the brace (and between the x-member)? Then, cut that triangular hole and use the tank strap and weight of the tank to hold that piece of plate in-place. I can provide the dimensions for the triangular hole, if you'd like.
Thanks Dave that sounds like a better idea than what I started today... The brace on the other side isn't as bad so I was cutting the rivets to just flip the crossmember. Unfortunately my flap disk found my thumb so I'm runnin a little slow for the next couple of days.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.