Just make sure you have constant vacuum to the transmission. Some of the ports on the carb may only have vacuum when the throttle is opened, none when the throttle is closed and the engine is idling. The port with no vacuum at idle is called a "ported" vacuum source. That one goes to the distributor. No vacuum to the distributor at idle will make the idle slower, which will solve some of the lurching when putting it into gear.

 

i took the vacuum line off the distributor and the rpms went down like you said after that i tweaked the carbs mixture as the linkage adjustment on the throttle seemed ok.

i did notice that my brakes felt a bit softer but they did work fine i might have to adjust the brake booster again. its not like im pushing the peddle into the firewall or anything the vehicle does stop quickly it could just be me as i have not driven it in a while and not used to the vehicles peddle feel.

the more pressing issue is the cap with the large black hose that feeds into the air filter still has a lot of gases and oil coming from the engine because the seal is does not exist.



https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ke/ford?page=2

i just cant find one that fits maybe there is a gasket i am missing to keep the gases and oil from seeping out of the bottom of the cap,

ill go test the trucks brakes in my yard but other then that i am not finding any more issues and the oil leak at the back of the engine stopped leaking so i am not sure how that happened but you were right. i am also very grateful for all the help with my endless stream of questions XD


*edit:

i took the truck for a spin in the yard and got to about 10 mph and tried to stop and it worked fine.

i still hear a high pitch almost like vacuum leak somewhere sounds like only 1 everything else is working.

i still have an oil leak from the back of the engine just very minor i think its the gasket for the hydraulic lifters cover, ill take that apart and install a fresh gasket with so of that black goop i was talking about and put some claps in place to hold the gasket in place while it cures. ill just put a garbage bag around the exposed lifters and push rods to keep elements out.

since i did not have to readjust the brake booster i looked at the windshield water pump. i took the water out and flushed it a few times, checked if the hose had any crap in it (it did) and that was the cause of it not working because some light brown / green sludge had blocked the nozzles. so i took that apart and cleaned out the holes with a pin and shot water via the hose and its working again. i had paid like 75 dollars for that specific job at the garage and now i just feel ripped off as the job was simple but took about 20 min of cleaning hoses and flushing the reservoir totally brainless. the problem is trucks and mechanical stuff looks scary but its not as i do have a basic understanding of how things work for the most part and i got the chilton / haynes manuals.

ill want to completely take the engine out of the vehical at some point and have a backup engine. I also want to paint the engine all blue using this pant:

for general protection but it will make it easier to find oil leaks.

I do have what it sounds like a vacuum leak. im going to get a spray bottle and just spray the hoses down and see if i see any bubbles like im checking a bike tire.


i want to just buy this engine as a backup engine: https://spprecision.com/products/for...gine-sale.html
but it says it might not fit my truck as it only goes to 1987 not 82. i think its a good idea for one vehicle to have 2 engines so you can always have one engine out of the vehicle for a biyearly overhaul and full disassembly then just swap the spare into the truck and have maintenance on the other engine as needed.

i did some searching and this seems to work:
ill just order that, take the fuel pump off and close it off, and buy a propane tank and put it in the truck bed. if i need any custom parts ill make it and weld it on.

 

There are 2 things to know about the 87 on up blocks that may be an issue if used in the 86 and down trucks.
Motor mounted fuel pump. Because 87> motors are EFI the fuel pumps are in tank and no opening for the motor driven one.
Some say the bolt holes are there & tapped but no hole for the arm. Also dont know if the cam has the drive part that moves the arm?
If the motor was apart you could open up the hole for the pump but being it is along block metal would get inside ...... not good!
You could run an electric fuel pump and use the 87> blocks.

The other is if your truck used clutch linkage there is a pivot that screws into the block bock by the bell housing.
This hole may not be drilled & tapped for the pivot. You could drill & tap it as no metal would get in side the motor.
I also dont know if you could make a bracket like think used on the v8's that uses the bell housing bolts to hold the bracket or not to hold the pivot?

Other than them 2 things everything should be the same.
BTW the picture they show if of the 86 down block as it has the opening for the fuel pump and the hole for the clutch linage pivot but that dose not mean a lot.
Dave ----

 

You definitely have some "out of the box" ideas. If that engine was fully rebuilt, and you took care of it and changed the oil, it may be 30 years or more before it would need to be taken out again. Depending on the mileage you put on it, which can reach 250,000 or more sometimes before it needs major attention and have to pull the engine out.

 

Yeah, I'll have to agree with that. These guys know, Sept 1991 dad and I had a Ford create motor (302) put in his truck at 96,000 miles. That truck now has 143,000 miles, that engine runs great. The truck has been mine since the early 2000's.

 

i took the truck and got up to 45 mph driving around the block on closed roads. there were no issues, brakes worked perfect, hydraulics steering worked fine acceleration was smooth. i did not exceed 45 because even when i "broke in" the lifters i still want to take it easy.

the engine of the truck sounds deeper when it runs, it does not sound like how it did before the head gasket exploded so i guess its a good thing or i have a exhaust leak. normally when i would drive the truck i smelled a bit of gas after i turned it off but there is no unburned gas smell just exhaust smell.

ill burn my tank of gas and put in a fresh tank and add a can of seafoam because i hear engines love it.

*edit

also i looked at the exhaust pipe and there is zero black soot coming out like before that just spooked me to no end. so what ever happened during putting the engine back together its fixed.

also scotty kilmer (the youtube guy) says seafoam is crap so im just not sure. i bought the can about a year ago so i hope it does something.

 

I'm sure you can find people who say the same thing about most products.

I was told by someone I trust to use Chemtrol Berryman B12, it's a q/3 of the price of seafoam and works well.
https://www.google.com/search?q=berr...hrome&ie=UTF-8

 

If you have a carburetor that is half clogged with old ethanol fuel, sea foam works great to bust that loose IF THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. If your tank has a lot of old fuel in it, the ethanol fuel separates into fuel and water, so the sea foam will help get that out of there also. I don't see much use for it other than that.

 

i changed out the oil (before adding seafoam) and it was very dirty for not being driven much. i swapped out the oil filter and that completes the lifter break in process.

i put in fresh oil / air filter / oil filter and took it around the block and besides that vacuum leak i just cant find it runs fine. i have isolated the leak is coming from a tube in the main manifold area but still unknown. i might just have to measure the vacuum tubes and just replace all of them.

i also added a bit of seafoam to the engine oil about 5 oz and the rest of the bottle into the gas in the tank with fresh gas.

 

i did around 15 miles on the truck today and the engine ran smooth, brakes worked, power steering worked. there is still a vacuum leak i cant find. also this truck has always had a wiggle in the steering that is annoying. it presists after tire rotation so it has to be the alignment.

 

You might want to do a smoke test of the vacuum system, the smoke will show the leak.

There are threads here about the better steering box. something about a red top or blue box.

 

the truck has always had excessive play in the wheel so i bought a steering box (rebuilt) and ill just install it and rotate tires so that will fix that annoying wobble.

the wobble was so bad i was worried i was going to get pulled over because drivers might think im driving drunk lololol

the only thing i still need to buy is more power steering fluid because im going to lose most of it when i open the lines.

 

i set the ignition timing to 10 degrees

14 | 10<- (runs best here) | 6 | 0 | 6 <- (started here)

when i checked it was at +6 so it was too far advanced so i set it to -10 and the engine runs very smooth and it does not diesel after i turn it off. on the carb it was running a bit rich i had it open 1+ 1/2 turns so i closed it all the way in only moved in +1/4 of a turn. i went to 1/2 then 3/4 but it was just too fast for idle so i went back down to 1/4 and it seems to run fine.

my next project is ill be removing the steering box this week.

 

Get it right. It's the way you think about it, think about it like all the engineers think about timing. When you advance the timing, you are firing the plug earlier. So for it to run good, you have ti set at 10 degrees advanced. As you rev the engine, you should see the mark move further advanced. If you were on the other side of zero at 6, you must have been after top dead center or very late in the timing.

Don't worry, it does get confusing sometimes. But you did the right thing and moved it, tried it, and then moved it again. You can't always trust the marks on the damper are correct. But sounds like yours are.

 

if the truck is flat and i turn off the engine it does NOT diesel...

if the truck is on the wheel blocks and we have about 15 degrees then when i turn it off it does diesel

the truck had been set at +6 for at least 7 years since last rebuild so im glad its at the correct timing now.