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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Mar 16, 2023 | 05:58 PM
  #46  
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So i put the stud remover on and to my horror i saw there was no leverage for me to pull the stud off. I have to pull upwards it does not have threads.

Then even if i get the dam thing off there is such little room to tap down a new stud ill need to take the engine head off again and the exhaust manifold just so i can get the stud in while the head is out of the engine bay.

I also put a block of wood and attempted to use a hammer and a pry-bar to pull out the stud but its so tight inside and i have to stand on a crate just so i can get enough length to work with the bolt. If it requires taking the engine head off again i can safely apply a torch to it no where near fuel lines.

Is my thinking wrong? Is there a more optimized method i am not seeing?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2023 | 08:02 AM
  #47  
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I think you better talk to an automotive machine shop. Ask them for advice, IMO if you're not sure and know how to remove the head...some things are better left to the experts.

Sorry, but your thoughts seem to be all over the place. Focus on your stud problem.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2023 | 07:57 PM
  #48  
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https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...0/w83203?pos=0

ok that is the stud puller i got, i put it on the stud and instead of pulling the stud out the remover just locks on to it, so my guess is that its for removal of threaded studs then you just use a wrench after its locked and turn the stud.

is there a stud remover that just pulls up? like this:


I looked for KD Tools No 705 stud puller as in the video

i did find:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66484 but the reviews say its pretty ****ty.

I can take the engine head off easy and put it back on along with the exhaust ect easy easy but idk about studs that are smooth with no threads ?? i keep finding tools for threaded studs while my problem is smooth studs.

If i can just get a tool that locks on to the stud then as i twist it will pull it upward i can do the rest of the job.

I think this might do the job:
Amazon Amazon
(performance w89414 4 piece metric stud puller set)
 
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Old Mar 18, 2023 | 06:00 AM
  #49  
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Why would you need a stud puller for a threaded stud?
You would just unscrew it out of the head.
The only time you may need to mess with a threaded stud is if it bent, broke or needed it longer for a stud girdle.

Most of the time when a pressed in stud pulls out either with age or to much spring pressure you have 2 options.
Drill and pin the studs before they pull out.
Remove all the studs and drill & tap for screw in studs. This is the better way because if you are going to pay a machine shop to drill & pin might as well pay to drill & tap for the better studs.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 18, 2023 | 11:42 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Why would you need a stud puller for a threaded stud?
You would just unscrew it out of the head.
The only time you may need to mess with a threaded stud is if it bent, broke or needed it longer for a stud girdle.

Most of the time when a pressed in stud pulls out either with age or to much spring pressure you have 2 options.
Drill and pin the studs before they pull out.
Remove all the studs and drill & tap for screw in studs. This is the better way because if you are going to pay a machine shop to drill & pin might as well pay to drill & tap for the better studs.
Dave ----
When we ran into this problem at work, I dont know about the other guy or the bossman but I made sure to recommend to the customer to have it drilled and tapped for screw in studs. The pinned upgrade works but its a pita if you ever have to remove a pin to replace a broken stud over just simply center punching the broken stud and using a reverse drill bit to hopefully grab on to the stud and break it loose and unscrew it.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2023 | 02:26 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
Why would you need a stud puller for a threaded stud?
You would just unscrew it out of the head.
The only time you may need to mess with a threaded stud is if it bent, broke or needed it longer for a stud girdle.

Most of the time when a pressed in stud pulls out either with age or to much spring pressure you have 2 options.
Drill and pin the studs before they pull out.
Remove all the studs and drill & tap for screw in studs. This is the better way because if you are going to pay a machine shop to drill & pin might as well pay to drill & tap for the better studs.
Dave ----
its a pressed in straight stud

if it was threaded it would be a super easy to repair

i might want to while the head is off take it to a machine shop just so they can add threading so it will be easier to repair if the need arises.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2023 | 07:45 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Rusty_S
When we ran into this problem at work, I dont know about the other guy or the bossman but I made sure to recommend to the customer to have it drilled and tapped for screw in studs. The pinned upgrade works but its a pita if you ever have to remove a pin to replace a broken stud over just simply center punching the broken stud and using a reverse drill bit to hopefully grab on to the stud and break it loose and unscrew it.
I only posted of the 2 fixes as options but I would do the threaded studs as it is easier and mose likely cheaper.

Originally Posted by Phantom Phreak
its a pressed in straight stud

if it was threaded it would be a super easy to repair

i might want to while the head is off take it to a machine shop just so they can add threading so it will be easier to repair if the need arises.
If you do 1 do them all and with stock valve springs you will never have to deal with them again.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 18, 2023 | 09:51 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
I only posted of the 2 fixes as options but I would do the threaded studs as it is easier and mose likely cheaper.


If you do 1 do them all and with stock valve springs you will never have to deal with them again.
Dave ----
How do i know if the springs are bad and is it really necessary? I looked it up in chilton and did not find the answer.

https://mechanicbase.com/engine/rocker-arm-symptoms/

I have had many instances where im driving and the engine just dies for no reason total wtf movement. I go under the hood, spark = ok || compression.test = ok || fuel pump = ok || tank not locked = ok || carb = ok, so could it be springs? it does not have any physical damage to rods or broken rocker arms or ticking sound.

when my amazon stud puller comes ill pull the engine head off and send it out so the holes can be threaded, ill just throw out those press in studs as its an inferior part. but this means instead of me doing the repair ill have to spend money and im also cheap lollololo. I had saw it was like (75*12) per threading, ill ask if they want my kidneys too.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2023 | 04:07 AM
  #54  
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It is not that the springs are bad that is causing your problem.
If spring rates get to high, after market race springs, then you can't run pressed in rocker studs as they will pull out.

Sometimes with age even with stock springs they can pull out.

I am going to guess your issue was no spark from an over heated ING module and it would cool off and had spark when checking.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 19, 2023 | 07:06 AM
  #55  
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"This has not happened to my car yet, but in the future, to be on the safe side, I will collect your posts first."
 
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Old Mar 20, 2023 | 04:50 PM
  #56  
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so i called up all machine shops in town and it was so disappointing

me: "ya hi if i bring down a 300 inline 6 engine head can you add threads to the rocker arm stud holes"
everyone: "wut? we dont do that"
phone: (call has ended)
me: fml

so it looks like ill have to make the full repair myself

does the rocker arm stud hole go directly in to the coolant? My plan is ill drain half the coolant, heat up the head and pull the stud out then use a small hammer and tap it in. if that does not work ill take the head off again and make the repair while its off the engine.

fixing the stud i think is going to be harder then when i replaced the headgasket because that was easy even the reassembly. but a simple stud replacement = hard.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2023 | 03:11 AM
  #57  
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If you asked if they did Chevy heads I bet you get a yes.
you should not have told them a Ford 300 just do they pull the press in and tap for screw in.

I don't think they go into coolant.
Besides heating the head to pull the stud put the new press in stud in the freezer for a day or 2 before the work.
Heat the head and when good and hot have someone get the stud that should be ready to drive in so it stays cold and head hot.
Should make it easier to drive in.
Dave ----
 
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Old Mar 21, 2023 | 07:39 AM
  #58  
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From the manual;

Rocker arm studs which are broken or have damaged threads may be replaced with standard studs. Studs which are loose in the cylinder head must be replaced with oversize studs which are available for service. The amount of oversize and diameter of the studs are as follows:
  1. 0.006 inch; (0.152mm) oversize: 0.3774-0.3781 inch; (9.586-9.604mm)
  2. 0.010 inch; (0.254mm) oversize: 0.3814-0.3821 inch; (9.688-9.705mm)
  3. 0.015 inch; (0.381mm) oversize: 0.3864-0.3871 inch; (9.815-9.832mm)
A tool kit for replacing the rocker studs is available and contains a stud remover and two oversize reamers: one for 0.006 inch; (0.152mm) and one for 0.015 inch; (0.381mm) oversize studs. For 0.010 inch; (0.254mm) oversize studs, use reamer tool T66P-6A527-B. To press the replacement studs into the cylinder head, use the stud replacer tool T69P-6049-D. Use the smaller reamer tool first when boring the hole for oversize studs.
  1. Remove the valve rocker cover(s) by moving all hoses aside and unbolting the cover(s). Position the sleeve of the rocker arm stud remover over the stud with the bearing end down. When working on a 302 V8, cut the threaded part of the stud off with a hacksaw. Thread the puller into the sleeve and over the stud until it is fully bottomed. Hold the sleeve with a wrench and rotate the puller clockwise to remove the stud.
An alternate method of removing the rocker studs without the special tool is to put spacers over the stud until just enough threads are left showing at the top so a nut can be screwed onto the top of the rocker arm stud and get a full bite. Turn the nut clockwise until the stud is removed, adding spacers under the nut as necessary.

If the rocker stud was broken off flush with the stud boss, use an easy-out tool to remove the broken off part of the stud from the cylinder head.
  1. If a loose rocker arm stud is being replaced, ream the stud bore for the selected oversize stud.
Keep all metal particles away from the valves.
  1. Coat the end of the stud with Lubriplate®. Align the stud and installer with the stud bore and top the sliding driver until it bottoms. When the installer contacts the stud boss, the stud is installed to its correct height.
     
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    Old Mar 21, 2023 | 07:43 AM
      #59  
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    Old Mar 25, 2023 | 02:09 AM
      #60  
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    i got the new tool coming in the mail that will pull that stud.

    Ill go grab a propane torch because the torch i have is just toooo powerful i need something i can control the heat.

    i put the stud in the freezer and will do as directed tyty.

    ill have a fire extinguisher near by, wrap plastic and tape the gas line closed and have a hose near by on if anything goes south.
     
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