Now on to this,

"i was adding the engine head bolts and one of the bolts is not biting into the thread. i checked to make sure i corrected added the engine head and all the other bolts line up in thread holes. i poked a camera into the hole that is not threading and everything looks good but its not working. i think i need to use a thread cleaner on it, i dont see any damaged threads in the hole with the camera."

I assume you are talking about installing the head studs, "after" you set the head in place, and one of the studs would not thread into the block ?

But, it seems you have removed the head now. Have you inspected that thread hole in the block ?

 

yes i pulled the engine head off inspected the threading on the holes and its totally fine, a bit of the gasket moved when i put the head on so it had a physical obstruction.

when i took the head off i noticed metal shavings coming out of the machined engine head so i blew the engine down with compressed air, got a shop towel and got some oil and wiped a coat of oil on the cylinders. i then smacked the engine head around a bit to knock more of the metal shavings out, it seems to be coming out of the coolant channels. I shot compressed air but nothing came out. should be fine right? good enough for government work?

 

head on and torqued down by applying 25 pounds then 60 then 85 pounds across the engine head using the tightening pattern in chilton manual.

heres my issue the nut is not going on in the correct direction. it goes on totally smooth just the wrong way.

context here: yes i am using chevrolet parts on a ford inline 300 because the pressed in studs are removed and the only fitting part came from a small block chevi


also you will notice the arms are on in the wrong directions and thats ok. as i set the intake and exhaust i flip it around then i tighten so i can see and not get lost as i work up because i dont add the bolt until setting timing.


what is going on here or is that how the nuts just go on? i assume the error is me right?

 

I don't understand what is meant by going on smooth but wrong way?
They look like normal crocker lock nuts.
Thing I don't like is you need to screw them down a lot before they touch the rocker.
Dave ---'

 

i set the timing of the intake and exhaust and got everything screwed down on all cylinders. now i need to get the spark plugs in, wires on those, then get the exhaust manifold on. i can do that tomorrow and show pics of progress.

 

In post 79, are you talking about left hand threads, or you put the nut on upside down ?

"heres my issue the nut is not going on in the correct direction. it goes on totally smooth just the wrong way."

These are self-locking nuts, they will thread on by hand until you begin to engage the self-locking feature.

 

i have never used self-locking nuts before and the ford parts thread the nut differently. the nut had the flat part facing upward and the smaller rounder front pressing on the ball of the stud. thats why it looked off to me because the flat part faced down not up. i did everything right it just looked off. dont worry ill get plenty of pictures tomorrow so you can authenticate XD.

 

i put the entire thing back together, i was charging the battery it was a bit low then i added the coolant and it started to leak.... so i might have crunched the gasket when i put it on because it was so heavy when i lugged it on the engine. but solving that problem is no where near as hard as fixing an engine head. it will take 2-3 hours to take it apart, swap the gasket out lol again and put a new one on then reassemble.

 

Because the head is heavy some use a engine hoist to lift it off & on.
Dave ----

 

I was thinking, maybe use some wood to set on the block to protect the HG from impact dropping the head on. You can slide the pieces of wood out in sections between the studs.

Something like paint stirring sticks.

 

I reassembled the engine, added coolant no leaks

i did valve timing for intake exhaust and reassembled exhaust manifold.




at the upper top we have a small stainless steel tube, i don't know what it does. i assume vacuum something?



the engine does turn on now but it runs badly then sputters to a stop if i dont take the key out as i fear damage of some kind.

note: not all rocker arms are getting oil. i only saw 2 working correctly.

starting left this will show all the vacuum lines i have reassembled. note i forgot to add a line to the egr ill connect that with another black line directly to the carb.


so we have spark, we have fuel, compression????? not sure i am also not sure if i did the timing of the intake / exhaust.

as for the oiling issue on the rocker arms i fear ill have to disassemble the engine and replace all lifters and push rods. i cleaned the push rods before reassembly and assembled them in the order i wrote down.

on a positive note, i can now disassemble the engine down to the head gasket and reassemble including exaust + valve timing in 8 hours. ya im slow hahaha well at least it moves at this point rofl


**

another thing:

I dont have enough exhaust manifold bolts grrr lol i searched around and could not find.

++
when i installed my push rods i made sure there were no obstructions that could block oil flow, maybe the engine does not have enough oil pressure to start lubing all rocker arms.

also the method for intake / exhaust valve adjustment:

i start on cylinder 1 and rotate until we are at the start of the 4 cycles where intake is starting to close, i then tighten exhaust valve as the lifter is pushing the rod to the top of the lobe.
i rotate until the exhaust valve starts to open on exhaust cycle and tighten intake valve.

i work on one cylinder at a time and i poke in a borehole camera so i can see timing, i also observe rocker arms move up and down. for cylinder 1 the closest valve is exhaust then we have intake.

the goal is not to bottom out the lifters, i tighten the rocker arms until it does not move and it applies little if any down force on the rod then i tighten with 3/4 of a turn.

 

I know the books say get #1 intake valve open and adjust the exh valve and turn and do .......... the next.
To me that is way too much work.
I adjust them in firing order. #1 at TDC and adjust both valves then turn motor so next in firing order is at TDC and adjust and so on.

Now when adjusting I rotate the push rod with my fingers till it just stops then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn more on the nut and move on to the next.
I am thinking you may have gone to tight on the nuts and why no oil up top.
I would try backing them off 1/2 a turn and see how it runs and if you get oit top side.
Dave ----

 

just being clear i did use the correct method for valve adjustment? i even poked a camera inside to see and be more accurate.

 

I know but for me that is just to confusing qnd qhy I do both valves when that hole is at TDC to fire.
The other way you are jumping all over the place and could mess up is all.

I would back off all the nuts 1/2 a turn and see what you get.
Dave ----

 

i start on cylinder 1 and rotate until we are at the start of the 4 cycles where intake is starting to close, i then tighten exhaust valve as the lifter is pushing the rod to the top of the lobe.
i rotate until the exhaust valve starts to open on exhaust cycle and tighten intake valve.


That is not TDC.

Do what Dave G. says in post 87... at TDC on each cylinder, set both valves, then move to the next cylinder in the firing order. It's been about 50 years since I've had to do this, but I seem that's how I used to do small block chevy's. Even had a valve cover with the center top cut out, so we could adjust them with engine running.