i adjusted the valves, i went into the compression stroke then went finger tight on the push rod so it could still spin and did 1/4 of a turn. i know you can do it in firing order but i went cylinder by cylinder and reset it to the compression tdc then set both valves.

I turn turned the engine back on and it runs, the engine still has a bit of a shudder to it but it feels smooth. i had double checked adjustments and everything looked fine. all but four of my rocker arms are getting oil and the exhaust gasket i put on is total crap ill have to replace it because i saw a bit of smoke coming from the manifold.

for the exhaust bolts i found this:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...982-ford-f-150
i think it could work not sure...
but this stud looks better:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...d+studs&pos=23

does it looks like ill have to replace some lifters because i cant go any looser on my push rods.



so the truck runs, i have not seen it dump any coolant into the oil so that is good, i got my brakes back everything seems to work. i am not sure about that excessive vibration i experienced at low rpm but if you give it a bit of gas it will smooth out.

what is everyone's thoughts on the matter.

 

When up to temp did you check the timing and adjust the carb idle mix?
Dave ----

 

no i did not adjust the carb, as for ignition timing i did not change anything so it should work. i was alarmed i saw a bit of smoke coming from the exhaust manifold and thought i had a leak somewhere so i shut it down. the engine starts up on one pull of the key on ignition. because i dont have enough exhaust bolts i think there might be some leaks. the engine was not bought up to temp.

because i am so new at all this i was worried that i might have overlooked something and have damage to the engine but it seems to be running fine, it just goes to prove how reliable the inline 300 is that even i can work on it and get it running.

 

Smoke for the exhaust manifold may have been some moisture. Was it black or whitish ? When the outside air temp and dew point are right. The tail pipe will put out white smoke until it fully warms up. That's normal.

You'll want to finish bolting up the manifold before you let it get fully warmed up. Once you do that, it sounds like it's time to take it fora drive.

I'm not expert on the 6 cylinder, but you'll want OEM style bolts/fasteners for it, those header bolts you linked above may be too short for the OEM manifold.

 

it was white smoke, i thought something was in contact like a hose that could be burning but i found nothing. ill adjust the carb because the engines rpms are too low to keep the engine on with out at least 10% gas pedal pressure.

 

I assume you mean your going to increase idle speed, not adjust the mixture screws on the carb...?

 

I adjusted the ball linkage to the carb, it does not shut off but the idle is about 500 rpm higher then it should be. i went to lean the mix on the screw but oil was just getting everywhere and smoke was coming out of the exhaust on the manifold along cylinders 1 2 as i dont have enough studs.

 

On the linkage on the side of the carb there is a screw that is the stop for the throttle. Just back it out a little, the idle will come down.

Stop running the engine until you have all the bolts/nuts installed and tight.

 

Yes get the manifold bolts all in and tight.
Smoke I take it is from the manifold in the engine bay not out the tail pipe?
This is some what normal as oil & grease can get in the exh. manifold.
As it heats up it will burn off and stop smoking.

You may need to adjust the idle speed to spec next.

Once up to temp check the timing, dont assume it is ok because you did not touch it.
Then adjust the carb idle mixture. Turn the screw in & out to get the best idle.
If using a vacuum gauge you want the highest vacuum reading.
Dave ----

 

I have not got my bolts in the mail yet so the manifold is on hold.

I dont want to turn on the engine until i get the manifold solved because oil just goes everywhere and smoke from the manifold is spooky. when i turn the engine on i got two fire dry extinguishers near by.

But i got my hydraulic lifters in the mail, i ordered a few extra. i plan to install them without soaking them in oil i saw in another thread that said it had no benefit. Ill remove the fuel pump, and lines to the spark plug and the distributor and clean out the dust from the distributor with some seafoam deep creep. before i remove the distributor ill put cylinder 1 into tdc compression then open the panel on the engine and fish out the lifter with a neodymium magnet.

I found some lifters and i got ones with a hardened head from comp cams 832-1, i still have to get a bottle of assembly lube.

i also got this book a few months back it has been a great info resource because sometimes you just need high quality color pictures.

 

I'm sorry, but why aren't you getting the nuts and bolts from a local store ? You could have them in a matter of minutes. Any auto parts store should have them or the hardware store will have something that will work too. Even the local Ford dealer will have them.

Any smoke from the surface of the exhaust manifold is normal for all the work you've done, don't worry about it.

 

i checked my local store and it was special order.

the smoke is not from the outside of the manifold but inside on the bottom of cylinders 1 2 because i dont have enough bolts.

 

I'm not up on Fords 4.9L 6 cylinders. I gather you need something like these, There are some other links on the page...
https://www.google.com/search?q=1984...client=gws-wiz

 

I forget what factory was as I went with studs and nuts when I went with EFI manifolds.

Now what is this about oil all over?
There should not be any oil spraying anywhere but inside the motor.
Dave ----

 

i fixed the idle speed, its a bit high maybe 100 rpm higher ish but its acceptable.

the oil came from the rocker arms throwing oil over the exhaust manifold no worries no exhaust leaks found.

i opened the engines side panel next to the distributor and replaced 5 hydraulic lifters, i reset valves timing on 1 2 3 4

the issues of no oil on rocker arms on cylinder 4 were solved

no oil on cylinder 1 exhaust no change, intake ok
no oil on cylinder 2 exhaust ok, intake no change
no oil on cylinder 3 exhaust no change, intake ok

i went 1/4 turn looser on effected nuts on effected cylinders no change.
i started and stopped the engine about 4 times and loosened 1/4 turn test

https://cararac.com/blog/hydraulic-l...solutions.html
from this link i think the hydraulic oil feed must be dirty. the engine has all new oil, all new filter and the oil from the dipstick is crystal clean.

so what is everyone's suggestions?

the engine runs fine its just not oiling those rocker arms...


the engine had two oil leaks, on the gasket of the panel that allowed access hydraulic lifters. i removed gasket cleaned it and applied instant gasket and it seems that oil leak has stopped.
the second oil leak was from the engine head cover gasket and that will be fixed when the head cover is placed back on to cover the rocker arms.


*
i put assembly lube on the face of the hydraulic lifters (flat side) and ensured the hole on the side is unclogged so it would have lube on cam when starting up. i inspected engine pannel access port for any debris on lifter heads and it was very clean.

on cylinder 2 intake we have excess oil flowing across the rocker arm while the exhaust is dry with no change

* when i installed the lifters i just smeared lube on the flat face and dropped them in, there is a small hole for oil access on the side of the lifter does that need to be dropped in to point to 3 or 9 oclock position or does it matter?