ok the thread diameter is less then the bolt diameter so it must be a positive stop equipped rocker. Ill upload a pic in a bit.

I tried to use nut cutters and its taking pie like slices out of it but I just cant get the angle. Ill see if i can remove the entire bolt out and just replace it as the rocker arm is getting in the way of the nut cutting tool. I did pull out the rod to get the rocker ram to fall and give more access but it was not enough.



**

ok i got the angle and some how cut the nut off the bolt it was very hard

the bad news is the bolts threads are damaged so how do I extract the bolt from the engine head. I also noticed when threading a nut on cylinder 5 it took a lot of effort to get it on and no it was not cross threaded. I got a all new set of nuts ill swap out and get what i got and just throw it out.

(let me be clear the stud is not broken just thread damage)

 

Can you get a thread die and clean up the threads ?

 

To extract the stud, you take a bunch of washers and stack them up, and then crank down the nut against the washers to pull the stud out. It will be touch and go since your threads are messed up, hopefully in just one area.

 

You may be able to buy a coupler nut like this and it would have enough good threads to pull the stud with the washers.

 

how about a tool like this:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...stud-extractor

 

Coming out is the easy part how do you put the new one in?
Or do you tap the hole and thread then new one in?
Dave ----

 

I assumed you just wack it into place with a hammer and that the bottom had no threads if it did i would have to screw it in.

 

Screw one of the old nuts down flush with the top of the new stud to help protect it from the hammer. I would use a brass piece of round stock or something to have the hammer hit directly on, and not let the hammer hit directly on the top of the stud. However you can do it without damaging it.

 

I would also heat the head up or the post where the stud goes in with a torch and freeze the stud before you drive it in may help too.
Dave ----

 

The tool i needed to get the stud out came, along with a new stud and i have new bolts. this will require resetting the engines intake / exhaust again but that is no big deal now i want fresh parts on everything.

The weather is really bad today so ill have to work on it tomorrow because i work under a large ramada with no walls. With these parts ill be able to have the engine run.

But this experience has been really interesting in that i never thought i could take apart much less put back together a inline 6 300 engine and save thousands of dollars instead of taking it to a garage. On another truck we had a door handle break - a 20 dollar part and they charged us 400 dollars for a fix. I looked up how to repair it on yt and its not complicated at all so i feel the garage is just stealing from customers. But i do understand you need to charge high labor fees to keep the lights on ect but 400 dollars for a door handle that is excessive. I had looked up how much a gasket replacement would cost and it was upwards of 4000-5000 with labor for a 50 dollar part. The engine is built very solid but it does have "wear parts" like pistons, valve seals, lifters, cams, rockers ect and that just the engine, i still need to replace barrings on the wheels then do a front end alignment job for steering and it should be good to go in all respects. Maybe i could add a more modern suspension system and i know your going to think im totally evil and insane but it would be nice to convert the truck to run on propane or at least be dual fuel so i could get more life out of the engine between rebuilds. I found that i would have to contact the dmv and register the vehicle for alt fuel or i could get in trouble for potentially skipping out on fuel taxes if it was not reported so im very much by the book but that is much down the line as for repairs.

 

Your learning...
On the wheel bearings, depending on how your rotors are, it may be easier to buy new rotors and bearings, install the outer races, grease the bearing with high temp grease and install new brake pads while thing are apart. Or drums if you have drum brakes.

Please click on the "user control" link up top and add your trucks info to your signature, like some of us have done. We'll all thank you for that.

 

I got to ask how much you plan on driving the truck per year, 100K 200k or more a year that you want to go LP gas to have it last longer?
How many miles dose the truck / motor have on it now?
If you will be driving it that much where you think LP will help where can you get fuel for it?

If the motor is in good shape and you do the normal up keep (oil & filter changes) it will live for a vary long time running on normal gasoline.
I have a 21 year old SUV with 247k on it and would drive it anywhere at any time all because I do oil changes every 3000 miles.
That is a 360 v8, the 300 six I think is built a little more heavy duty.
Just my .02
Dave ----

 

We had engines where I worked once that were LP gas. Two of them were very large forklifts with 350 chevy engines. Those engines had special cylinder heads with special stellite valves. The LP burned hotter and was harder on the valves and the valve seats. They did burn clean though, the oil looked like it was brand new when it was changed.

https://www.valvemagazine.com/articl...-and-processes

 

Ya i had heard that if an engine burns LP the oil is like new on an oil change so you could (maybe) do the oil change ever 5000 miles? Ill still change it out as it will have micro partials of metal that can do damage.

I have around 200k-250k miles on it and i am crazy about doing my oil often, doing the filters and cleaning / waxing it but such maintenance is not enough. I had rotted vacuum lines going to the front of the engine that need to be replaced or just removed and might as well swap all belts out. I bought some plastic vacuum lines and ran it to the distributor, then this black vacuum reserve can and a line to the egr, i then added vacuum caps on the ports on the front of the engine. I ran all vacuum lines from the carbs manifold at the bottom - ill get a picture of how i did it, i assume it will work. Since i live a distance from town the engine gets a solid hour at around 55-60 mph so there is no water build up in the oil from short trips where the engine does not fully warm up. There is a propane fill up about five miles from me so its no burden at all.

I mainly use the truck to head to go to walmart / home depo / lowes to pick up supplies when working on the house or hauling my yard waste to the dump and pulling trailers. Since i got zero social life i don't really go anywhere except doctors appointments but i do find the truck only gets around 10-13 miles per gallon and i consider that low. But i must take into account when the truck was made, the technology used and aerodynamics of the truck body and its a manual transmission. The truck is stock in mostly all regards so i should be getting around 20 mpg @ 55 mpg. The insurance on the truck is crazy low only 35 dollars a month so i am happy about that.

I saw: https://www.fuelly.com/car/ford/f-150/1982 mpg = 9 and was like no way that cant be true his carb must be so badly tuned or some kind of damage but still running. But i did find the carb was leaking fuel into the exhaust so ill need to examine that another day but the carb is only a year old.

I am wrapping my head around inline engines and my long term goal is to have a small car with a inline 6 engine(170 or 200 straight 6) drop that into a car so its small and fuel efficient yet easy to work on and dead reliable. I doubt the motor will just drop in as the mounts will be different so ill need to weld or fabricate new ones idk then making sure i can connect to the transmission so some kind of adapter will be needed or just get a car body that already fits that engine. That is just what i have in mind.

 

Bunch of Ford cars in the 70's had the little inline sixes stock. Like the Mavericks, Ford Granada, etc.