i got the pullers, they worked so good i was able to get it out. the stud does go directly into engine coolant so about 2-3 tsp came out and i mopped that up with a towel. I then opened the plug on the coolant to drain about a gallon out but it made a siphon out of the reservoir because i forgot to remove hose.

here is where things turned to total **** like really really bad... i heated the block up got the new stud out of the freezer, rushed over to the engine, got the torch heated the block back up, i put a wrench over the top of the stud threads and tapped it into place with a hammer. as it cooled it got harder and harder to work in. i got to the correct depth but the first 1-2 threads of the stud pancaked when i examined it so i totally screwed up because i was tapping into place for about 5-7 min all while it was cooling.

i cant rethread the pullers on the stud to pull it out...



so my guess is ill try this:

this seems to work:
take a grinder and smooth the very top of the bolt, to get the pullers back on and replace with a new bolt.

Ill need some type of metal cap that i can place over the stud during installation to prevent thread damage.


*
ok i got a file and was getting a bit of a angle to get past the mushroomed threads, i put the stud puller on to see if it would bite and it did but it failed to pull out the stud, it actually destroyed the internal threads on the stud puller, the metal is so soft.

 

You were to put a nut on The stud and have it even with the top of stud so when hammering it would not do what it did.

I was going to say leave the stud if it is in all t he way, hope you did not pull it outt any.
File the top of the stud lime I think you did and see if you can get a die on it to clean the threads up to get a nut on.
Dave ----

 

i have ordered a thread repair file, and ill get another stud puller then pull it out and add a fresh one then when hammering add a nut to the top like you said. but wont smacking a nut just destroy the threads under the nut?

 

Should not as the nut grabs more threads so I won't mess the threads up.
Could. Also put the nut down all the way and drive the stud in like you did then taper the top where it. Peened over.
When you remove the nut it should cut / clean the threads up when coming off.
Dave. ----

 

Yep, put a nut on the threads before you hammer on the stud. You could put two nuts on the stud, tighten them against each other to prevent the nut from moving as you strike it.

 

Hammering directly on anything is going to tear it up. It's better to lightly hammer to get the stud started straight, and then take a short piece of shafting (brass works great, steel is better than nothing) and hit directly on your homemade "punch" which will be contacting the stud. It's very easy to cause damage by having the hammer hit directly on the stud. If you want to use the nut method, do that AND use a punch. You can put the stud in the freezer overnight also.

Since it has coolant under it, I would smear some permatex or something on the stud to prevent nuisance leaks.

 

This might work too, to strike on it and protect the threads at the same time. More thread contact with this type of coupler nut if you can find the correct thread.

 

so some upgrades got done





but i got another new problem, i was adding the engine head bolts and one of the bolts is not biting into the thread. i checked to make sure i corrected added the engine head and all the other bolts line up in thread holes. i poked a camera into the hole that is not threading and everything looks good but its not working. i think i need to use a thread cleaner on it, i dont see any damaged threads in the hole with the camera.

 

Sorry to hear that. I assume you have not tighten any head bolts yet ?

If not, just remove the head and check out that bolt hole.

Just to verify, was the head rebuilt by a auto machine shop ?

 

ya i took it down and had it professionally done, the head is on but nothing is tightened. these small issues are driving me batty

 

It looks like you are using head studs and not bolts is that right?
Not that it is a good or bad thing, studs, just asking as that is what it looks like.

Studs or bolts what if you take one that is already threaded in the block and see if it will go in that hole.
If using studs what if you pull the head back off, put all the studs in the block, gasket on and drop the head on over the studs?

BTW the screw in rocker studs were the way to go, good job.
Dave ----

 

Yes, studs are normally installed first, as far as I know. That way, it is easy to tighten them using the double nut method. Did the studs require some type of lube or sealant on them ?

I'm not a 6 cylinder guy...

 

the studs at the corners of the engine head thread into the engines water jacket so i have to not apply arp thread assembly lube but use thread sealant on those four.

the studs twist out as smooth as butter due to the assembly lube im really shocked. i thought i did not torque all of them down to specs but i did.




im using arp fasteners and i just love how easy it is to put the head on. I dont own a lift or crane so i pick the engine head up and lower it on with my hands and its heavy. i put two fasteners on the engine and use them as a guide.

taking the head off with these headless fasteners is really awesome because i twist off the mounting screws so i am left with just a rod, i pull the rods off then just slide the engine head off the engine.

 

"taking the head off with these headless fasteners is really awesome because so i am left with just a rod, then just slide the engine head off the engine."

I'm sorry, but I find that hard to follow.


those "headless fasteners", are they the studs ?

"i twist off the mounting screws", are those the studs you're talking about, again ?

"i pull the rods off", what rods ?

 

I take the nut on the top off, then i take the washer off under it, i apply a hex key into the top and twist the stud out. the nuts on the studs are removed in reverse order of how they were applied on to the engine head. I simply pull the stud out and the engine head slides right off.

for reference: http://www.carid.com/images/arp/perf...s/247-5401.jpg