Your large turbine housing won’t work with the small turbine version. So it requires purchasing both a super core and housing. And yes, most are running the .91.

I’m picking on you though. The 364.5/73 should be spooled up and working well at the rpm you’re running.

Prices and availability have changed lately. When I did the swap I was able to resell my almost new turbo and not lose too much.

 

I have been able to log some drive time on the Andrew Arthur (AA design) tunes. It’s a 40HP tow tune and a 80HP tow tune. They seem much much peppier then the 1023 diesel heavy tow and medium tow tune, which makes sense since those are probably more like 20-40 HP tunes.

anyways, it much more sensitive to the throttle which I like! It seems it wants to accelerate much quicker then the 1023 tunes. With that said, I noticed HPOP pressure jumps much quicker to throttle response where the 1023 gradually increases HPOP pressure with throttle input.

is snappy HPOP pressure a long term issue with HPOP longevity?

 

Not at all. It just shows how some tuners are better than others.

I am not convinced that calling for over about 2800psi is advantageous and it may cause a high IPR DC or even decreasing ICP during sustained WOT.

 

Thanks, I didn’t see higher HPOP pressures per say. I have seen both tunes hit similar HPOP psi under similar conditions but the rate at which it hits desired HPOP pressure is different.

The best comparison I can give is watching a speedometer climb from 0-60.

1023 tune HPOP pressure rising is like watching your speedo go from 0-60 at part throttle.

AA design HPOP pressure rising is like watching your speedo do 0-60 when you stomp the throttle and you accelerate much quicker.

that comparison is done with similar throttle position and load. It just seems if I touch the throttle AA design tune jumps to the desired HPOP pressure much quicker.

Not sure what’s better or worse, or if it even matters.

 

Update: My brother is picking up a 50 gallon transfer flow tank from my buddy this afternoon and will be delivering it to me when he comes to visit for the 4th! I cant wait to fill up once and just drive for 500+ miles! Even at 7mpg that is about 630 miles.

I am also taking a leap into the unknown and am picking up a spicer 7041 on wednesday. I have been giving it a lot of thought and I found one that looks new and has been sitting in a shop for years and years. I may scrap the idea and resell it but if I want to do it, this is the one to do it with. Here are pics of the 7041.



















I think the lady is selling it on behalf of her husband (who probably isnt on social media) and to her knowledge it was never installed. Not sure how true it is but it doesnt have flanges or a mounting girdle.



If that is the case I would assume $750 is a good deal.

Here is a chart I put together. As you can see lets say I am going 70 at 2500 rpm and start going up a hill and lose some speed, I downshift to 3rd at 56 mph since I dropped to 2000 rpm. When I hit 3rd I bounce back up to 2800 rpm. I am kind of out of the powerband and wont gain much more speed. 4th under (.71x1.21=.86) brings me up to 2400 which I think is in the powerband and gets me accelerating again. I guess thats all theory. Also, I have some drives where I am unloaded and driving back home loaded. In a few weeks I plan to drive to So Cal unloaded and back with a friends jeep. I am in the middle of nowhere where the speed limit is 80 in some spots. Towing I wouldnt do 80 but unloaded, having 4th over would be nice to cruise at 80 mph at 2300ish rpm

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You are going to love the added fuel capacity. I have 75 gallons of fuel when full and it is great filling up when I want instead of when I have to.

Especially when towing heavy, being choosy of the fuel stop is a great luxury that I will never go without from now on.

 

Aux transmission will be badass! OD for empty highway and low for moving loaded trailers. Looking forward to how this works out for you!!!

 

I cant remember if your truck is a 4R100 or ZF6 but that would sure be cool and unique. I can't really picture how that would work with an automatic main box but know that was common to have a set of sticks in older big trucks before Fuller boxes became common. (I've seen Fuller boxes swapped into Cummins pickups as well)

 

With an SAE bellhousing adapter, we can bolt almost any medium duty truck transmission to our 7.3’s. BUT, this would require a lot of body lift or extensive transmission tunnel and firewall modifications - or both.

 

thanks guys! I’m excited. I unfortunately have a 4R100.

this guy shifts with an Allison auto in his. crappy video and I don’t like how he uses the speedo to make his shifts compared to RPM but the theory is, shift it into neutral and basically rev match it, I have seen similar videos where guys are shifting their aux trans with manuals still in gear and they don’t use the clutch. My assumption is that I’d have to do the same

 

Our speedometer signal comes from rear axle, so no math required.

Shifting should be no different than floating gears in any manual transmission. I only clutch from a stop in my ZF6.

 

badass!!! Now I just have to learn how to float gears 🤣

 

Is this the frame mounted, under the bed, mid ship fuel tank?

Or is this a rectangular fuel tank that mounts on top of the bed, typically behind the cab?

 

this will mount off the side of the bed as close to the cab as possible to keep the weight more on the front end.

the best comparison is those side mounted tool boxes cab and chassis guys use

 

Something followed me home today