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Also, noob question, what is the torque specs on the nut for the compressor wheel? I assume no balancing needs to be done? In all honesty, I have never pulled a turbo completely apart before lol
I got the truck finished. I, personally, never had issues with Dorman UCVH after I got rid of that first defective one. What that said I figured it was best to go to Motorcraft. I started the truck and everything acted fine. I let it idle and it ran fine. I shut it off in a week or two later I went back to pull it out of the garage. I drove it out of the garage fine. I then turned it off and worked on my exhaust brake. After adjusting my exhaust break for more back pressure I turned it back on, and it ran poorly. It had a service engine soon light on I went to forscan and I had a P1316 so I did a KOEO injector test and it came back with P1272, P1274, and P1716. I am kind of surprised it isn’t the entire side of that engine. I assume that this is a UCHV issue. Do you have any recommendations on where to start? This is random, but could this issue be caused if I tightened the bolt too tight on the 42 pin connector?
got it fixed, it was literally not fully plugged in bottom right is the most recent run. This is with the 11+0 wheel. I did the 11+0 wheel because that wheel prevents the surging issue. It also picked up more low end and id say that is because of more backpressure which forces more spool up on boost down low. I was very happy with the low end gains with the 2 turns from closed on the VGT, stock 7+7 wheel but feared snapping a turbine shaft when it surges....I will probably open it back up another turn or two, it will put me back to where I was with the stock wheel 2 turns from closed but now I dont have to worry about the stress on the turbine shaft as we have seen them break from surging with this VGT when you let out on the throttle and snaps the vanes shut.
You can see bottom left is where I was happy. Bottom right is current. Top right (I did have the truck loaded) and not accelerating but maintaining speed so not apples to apples but similar in the ratio.
I am glad I have the pushrods and valve springs in. So now with pushrods, valve springs and head studs, my top end is set....now I will just crack the block because the bottom end cant handle the torque and weight at low rpm, atleast with the laggy turbo it forced a downshift so I always lived at higher rpms
I did go the route that I would use a bolt through the uppipe and turbo exhaust housing instead of a stud for that top right bolt on the T4. Much easier install, will it hold? I dont know.... we can hope. More testing will continue
Anyways, this is the fine tuning and detail I am trying to go through. The VGT was so much better but I had to fix that one flaw of surging and I think its fixed now.
It’s been a while! First long trip in a year and a half. I’ll be grossing about 19-20k, typical load. 1800 mile trip. Through nowhere land, eastern NV down 93. maybe I’ll see some aliens by Area 51.
anyways, I have the 11+0 in, valve springs and pushrods in, my biggest fear this trip is a blown turbo flange gasket. I reused mine….whoops, and this is the first test using a through bolt on the top driver side bolt. I ditched the stud, and did slightly smaller bolt to go through the hole so I can unbolt the turbo from the backside for that one bolt/stud. It’s literally physically impossible to get it off without removing half the t4 mounting kit. We shall see. I bought some cheap t4 gaskets on Amazon to hold me over if I have an issue. Let’s hope not….
I also mounted a box under the bed to store a bunch of crap but I don’t have a picture. I’ll get one up soon.
I have taken to adding high-temp gasket maker to all my exhaust flanges. This is because I noticed little soot squirts the last time I took the turbo off the flange.
Well, my wife’s expedition Max with the Max tow package came in to save the day.
I’ve been driving this truck for a couple weeks doing pulls, data, logging, driving it and making sure it’s all good…. And it was.
10–15 miles into my drive, I have a boost leak.
Since I was so close to home, I turned around. I went back home.
It ended up being the boot off the turbo, so I tightened it back up and hit the road. It immediately had the same leak so I changed boots. After changing the boot it’s still leaked at that point. I wasn’t sure if it was that same boot or somewhere else, but I had already wasted hours and I had to hit the road.
This truck has been phenomenal, I’ve put 25,000 miles towing between 25K – 30 K gross but crap like this pisses me off. I am not sure if it is time for a change my first 1800 mile trip with the VGT went flawless the second trip, which is this one, with the 11+0 wheel ended up being problematic thankfully it was close to home.
I need to find out if this is VGT related or T4 related or just bad luck.
I have a S363/73/VGT with a 11+0 wheel. The 11+0 wheel picked up low end maybe I slap a .83 exhaust housing on it because I had a .91 before
Maybe I go to a KC GEN3 stage 1? It will alleviate boot issues. It will make turbo installation and removal easier. The T4 set up was a little bit of a pain, but the VGT set up is an absolute nightmare to work on while I do like it.
I guess I would love to hear some feedback and I will ponder this over my trip. The T4 is given me many good miles towing and the VGT has significantly improved school up, but hope this is not the cause of today’s issues
I am slightly over GCWR on the expedition. I know the engine and trans are the same as an F150. The max tow package puts in an F150 transfer case in it. I assume my only real concern is the rear diff. Let’s hope I don’t burn it up on this 1800 mile trip.
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bottom right is the most recent run. This is with the 11+0 wheel. I did the 11+0 wheel because that wheel prevents the surging issue. It also picked up more low end and id say that is because of more backpressure which forces more spool up on boost down low. I was very happy with the low end gains with the 2 turns from closed on the VGT, stock 7+7 wheel but feared snapping a turbine shaft when it surges....I will probably open it back up another turn or two, it will put me back to where I was with the stock wheel 2 turns from closed but now I dont have to worry about the stress on the turbine shaft as we have seen them break from surging with this VGT when you let out on the throttle and snaps the vanes shut. 
