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I did the hutch mod on my f450 with behind the axle fuel tank. The only difference is there are 8(?) Bolts that fasten the sending unit to the tank with a gasket. I went ahead and replaced my gasket because it was almost 20 years old at the time. IIRC I was not able to reach the fill tube to do the harpoon mod. I would strongly suggest doing the hutch mod with a Racor ps120 fuel strainer especially being that you have a metal tank. These metal tanks are known for delaminating on the inside and they also shed little rust particles. I was shocked to see how much junk was coming out of my metal tank even though it appears to be in great condition from the outside. If you plan on keeping the truck I would definitely do the hutch mod👍
Like how low was your FP dropping? If it was holding at least in the low to mid 50’s under full tilt boogie it likely wasn’t affecting performance at all. Some small drop under those conditions is normal, then it rises back up to 62-64 psi at idle and light cruise (with a stock spring).
The OEM Bosch pumps can be had for as low as $100 just for the pump itself. Might want to tinker with a multi-meter and see what kind of voltage the current one is getting. Mine had a noisy aftermarket one on there when I bought it too and I put the right one back in there. Did it make any difference in how the truck ran? Likely not but it made me feel better lol.
I did the hutch mod on my f450 with behind the axle fuel tank. The only difference is there are 8(?) Bolts that fasten the sending unit to the tank with a gasket. I went ahead and replaced my gasket because it was almost 20 years old at the time. IIRC I was not able to reach the fill tube to do the harpoon mod. I would strongly suggest doing the hutch mod with a Racor ps120 fuel strainer especially being that you have a metal tank. These metal tanks are known for delaminating on the inside and they also shed little rust particles. I was shocked to see how much junk was coming out of my metal tank even though it appears to be in great condition from the outside. If you plan on keeping the truck I would definitely do the hutch mod👍
mine has the 36 gallon steel aft-of-axle tank and strangely it was perfectly clean inside when I pulled the sending unit to clean the screens (which were also not very dirty at all). Wasn’t aware any mods were needed for these. I’ve pumped 36 gallons into the 36 gallons tank at least once lol, so it can be filled pretty high the way it is. Normally I don’t run it that low of course and 25-27 gallons clicks the pump off when I fill it. I can force another 4-5 in there if it’s really needed but it takes patience.
I did the hutch mod on my f450 with behind the axle fuel tank. The only difference is there are 8(?) Bolts that fasten the sending unit to the tank with a gasket. I went ahead and replaced my gasket because it was almost 20 years old at the time. IIRC I was not able to reach the fill tube to do the harpoon mod. I would strongly suggest doing the hutch mod with a Racor ps120 fuel strainer especially being that you have a metal tank. These metal tanks are known for delaminating on the inside and they also shed little rust particles. I was shocked to see how much junk was coming out of my metal tank even though it appears to be in great condition from the outside. If you plan on keeping the truck I would definitely do the hutch mod👍
Thanks, so you did the hutch mod and put that filter on the inside of the frame rail?
Originally Posted by Bently_Coop
How have your transmission temps been? Done or doing a 6.0 cooler?
+
I have a 6.0 cooler, I need to take the stupid aftermarket thermostat out, I was told to put one in since we have colder winters and the stat doesnt open until 180ish. It will hold the temps at 190 no matter what I do so far. It wont go under 190 or over 190, which means the trans cooler is kicking ***. I compared it to my 4x4 trans cooler that had that dumb thermostat in it (until I pulled it out) and it would get hot, then back down to 190, then hot, then back to 190. So the 6.0 cooler kicks ***, I just need to ditch the thermostat.
Originally Posted by Brandonpdx
Like how low was your FP dropping? If it was holding at least in the low to mid 50’s under full tilt boogie it likely wasn’t affecting performance at all. Some small drop under those conditions is normal, then it rises back up to 62-64 psi at idle and light cruise (with a stock spring).
The OEM Bosch pumps can be had for as low as $100 just for the pump itself. Might want to tinker with a multi-meter and see what kind of voltage the current one is getting. Mine had a noisy aftermarket one on there when I bought it too and I put the right one back in there. Did it make any difference in how the truck ran? Likely not but it made me feel better lol.
It would run down to 40-45 psi then nose dive to 0, I would let off immediately and it would come back up.
Originally Posted by Brandonpdx
mine has the 36 gallon steel aft-of-axle tank and strangely it was perfectly clean inside when I pulled the sending unit to clean the screens (which were also not very dirty at all). Wasn’t aware any mods were needed for these. I’ve pumped 36 gallons into the 36 gallons tank at least once lol, so it can be filled pretty high the way it is. Normally I don’t run it that low of course and 25-27 gallons clicks the pump off when I fill it. I can force another 4-5 in there if it’s really needed but it takes patience.
Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Harpoon mod adds this 4-5 gallons during the normal 1st click of the pump. No patience needed. It’s the whole point of the Harpoon mod.
I will look into doing the hutch and harpoon mods. On this upcoming trip I am also picking up a 50 gallon Aux tank from a friend. I cant wait to have a range of 500-600 miles. Right now running 20-28k gross and playing it safe on fuel level I go about 200-225 miles before fill up which is annoying.
I just read through this. Love your H3 and I’ve been a 4WOR fan since before Pewe started the UA tours....
Running those RPM’s is no problem. You don’t want taller gears - especially at those weights.
As long as your sustained EGT is below 1250*, you’re fine. ALL DAY LONG. If you peak at 1400* for a minute or 2 cresting a hill, it will hurt NOTHING.
Staying above 40psi fuel pressure is critical. We prefer to maintain 50psi, but 40 is adequate. Delete the mixing chamber and filters in the tank. I do these mods for about $20. A lot of people over complicate this with no benefits. Here is how I do it. It’s exactly the same for your cab chassis tank. The RACOR PS120 will flow significantly more volume and is probably a good idea for your power level.
I see the specs for rear axle and hear the concerns, but honestly I wouldn’t worry about it.
That front axle is wild. Never seen that before. Typically, a coil spring front axle swap is really straight forward. It’s 95% plug and play and no math, measuring or engineering is required. All but a couple of holes are already there and you’ll literally just bolt the spring buckets and hangers from an ‘05+ truck on your frame.
Im officially subscribed and following along. Good work man!!
I just read through this. Love your H3 and I’ve been a 4WOR fan since before Pewe started the UA tours....
Running those RPM’s is no problem. You don’t want taller gears - especially at those weights.
As long as your sustained EGT is below 1250*, you’re fine. ALL DAY LONG. If you peak at 1400* for a minute or 2 cresting a hill, it will hurt NOTHING.
Staying above 40psi fuel pressure is critical. We prefer to maintain 50psi, but 40 is adequate. Delete the mixing chamber and filters in the tank. I do these mods for about $20. A lot of people over complicate this with no benefits. Here is how I do it. It’s exactly the same for your cab chassis tank. The RACOR PS120 will flow significantly more volume and is probably a good idea for your power level.
I see the specs for rear axle and hear the concerns, but honestly I wouldn’t worry about it.
That front axle is wild. Never seen that before. Typically, a coil spring front axle swap is really straight forward. It’s 95% plug and play and no math, measuring or engineering is required. All but a couple of holes are already there and you’ll literally just bolt the spring buckets and hangers from an ‘05+ truck on your frame.
Im officially subscribed and following along. Good work man!!
Thanks, I appreciate it! I will look into using the PS120 pump, I assume I would do the same thing you did on your thread but use that PS120 filter instead of the Wix
Yes I mount the racor ps120 on the frame rail using this angle with holes stamped in it from home depot. there should be holes already in the frame rail about 2 ft behind the transfer case. Here are some pics, you can see all the junk the filter has kept out of the fuel pump. I think it's time for me to clean the filter
Another thing I have found and am questioning is if my tank is delaminating and causing these issues?
Its possible. If so, replace it with a plastic tank. I wish that was an option before because I’ve spent a fortune fixing my tank a couple of times and ultimately replacing it with another steel tank - that is currently delaminating.
Yes, install the PS120 instead of the WIX I used in my write-up.
I do not recommend running rubber hose all the way to the tank. Just put the PS120 in a similar place that I put the WIX 33972.
Rubber hose should be 30R9 or similar that is ‘lined’ to prevent internal degradation over time. ‘Cheap’ hose like 30R7 has a much shorter service life.
I use the PS120 on all of my vegetable oil conversions. I mount it horizontally because water separation doesn’t work on VO the way it does on diesel. You’ll want it to be vertical.
I also add a valve so fuel isn’t running out when I service filter.
Agreed with above, sounds like delamination in the aft tank. A way to temporarily clear the screens inside the F250 F350 mid tank is to blow shop air back thru the fuel hose to the tank. Pull fuel cap so air can escape. I expect this will work for a delaminating aft tank as well, assuming there are screens in there.
I would not recommend anything other than an OEM Bosch pump, if it comes to that.
The fuel is a lube inside the injector, so running at low fuel pressure for long will harm those nice new injectors.
And thanks for sharing the build! It's a hoot and a holler!
I am going to try and drop the tank today. I have 1/4 tank of fuel. I will probably siphon it out to put it back in if it isnt bad. I was looking at numerous tanks to get an idea on a price point. Titan is pricey which sucks but the right answer....
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