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Not totally happy with my 1023 experience, I still get reminded every time I hop in my truck and see the 1023 diesel logo on my hydra selector. I reached out to Dieselsite to see if they would let me buy one of theirs, as I noticed that Jelibuilt and 1023 both charge 6 bucks a pop for theirs. Not only did Dieselsite hook me up, they sent me 2 of them, shipped to my door for free!
Dieselsite has continually put out great products and has killer customer service.
Now that I had the cups pulled, I took a break and cleaned up the AA's to be sent back to 1023 Diesel and pull the AC's out to get them ready. Ultimately I wish I would have gone through Riff Raff for the AC's, as the shipping was 167 back to Wasilla, AK where 1023 is located. I'll get more into that later. I sent the cores back on the 18th of May.
Onto injector bore cleaning. The brush kit I bought from Riff Raff is good in a sense, but it isn't aggressive enough with a handle to get anything done. Maybe if the old loctite in the bottom of the bore was picked out with a screw driver, it would have been fine. I took a different approach....The Riff Raff injector cup tool is a MUST.
I chopped that handle and chucked the thing into my drill. Now we're talking!
Here you can see the old loctite still stuck on the right side of the bore. That is what needs to come out for the new cup to seal correctly. If it's left in there, it's not going to seal.
Here is my vacuum mod in order to get into the holes to pull the old crap out as I'm picking it off. Worked like a charm.
Here you can see a bore that I had not gotten to, and you can see the perfect ring of loctite still left in the bore.
These bores need to be perfect pristine clean if you expect the new cups to seal. The rear cups on each side are going to be much harder to get to, mainly because there is just no room to get to them. After going back and forth with the drill, and a screw driver I was able to get all the old loctite out. If I were to do it again, I would skip the brush kit, and get some brushes you can chuck into a right angle drill to get all of them. This would have been cheaper and more effective.
Once the bores were clean enough I wiped them out the best I could with Acetone since it flashes quick. Then onto the second part of seating the new cups.
I started on the driver side head and got the Riff Raff tool set up. On the first two I goofed up a bit and didn't set them far enough in. Thinking I was screwed, I set them all the way in and saw that green wet loctite was oozing out. I panicked and call Clay to ask his opinion. He was pretty confident that as long as the goop was still coming out wet, there wouldn't be any issues.
I got extemely lucky as my coolant level has not changed. Due to the 60+ PSI of the fuel vs the 12+ PSI of the pressurized coolant system, you'll see the coolant system level rise in your degas bottle as the fuel forces it's way past the cups into the cooling system. You can also get a coolant pressure tester on there to make sure everything is holding rock steady. I didn't have the luxury of that tool, so I had to follow my gut and press on.
Now that the cups are installed and sealed, you'll want to let them cure for a minimum of 12 hours. I cleaned up my garage and got everything ready for installation.
I worked on getting the cooling system installed, here is a good side by side of the IDI over flow next to the PSD degas configuration. Once I got the cooling system installed, I switched gears a bit and pulled the PCM for the hydra install. At some point it looks like my PCM was refurbished because it did not want to come out, was covered in blue tape, and had a CAR-COMPUTERS.COM sticker on it. A quick google search shows that this was a Cali shop in Redding that did it. I couldn't find the 4 character hex code for it, but since this is a Federal truck, and not Cali specific, the PCM was still a DPC-202 and I ended up using the TDE1 calibration for it when I sent in my tuning form to 1023 Diesel.
Once you get the PCM pulled, this is the J3 port that any TS style chip or PHP hydra will mount on. Cleaning is very straight forward. The entire board is coated in silicone, and the brass brush supplied won't hurt it, so go to town. You can use the back side of the brush to scrape the goo off between the pins as well. Once the pins are clean, lightly buff with the small scotch pad and you should be all set. Here is the chip seated and the cables ran. If you look closely you can see I do not have a 90* USB cable. This is why most folks recommend getting it, but if you're careful and route it well, it's a non issue. Here I went overboard with tape to make sure everything was in place. I mainly wanted to do this to make sure both the ribbon cable and the USB cable weren't going anywhere.
Now I usually try to give companies the benefit of the doubt, but 1023 missed the mark on multiple occasions. When I put in my order for the injectors and chip on their website, I decided to purchase the Hydra through them as they offer 6 custom tunes included in the price when you order injectors through them. I figured that was a good deal so I did it. The injectors showed up 3 or 4 days later, with no tracking number or anything supplied from 1023. This was red flag #1.
The second issue that came up, was about a week after I received the injectors, I still have seen no signs of a Hydra, or tracking number for that matter. After multiple emails and calls to Dusty about it, he assured me he would look into it. 4 Emails later I finally had a tracking number for the chip, Red flag #2
Red flag #3 happened when Dusty's shop received my $800 dollar injector cores on the 21st of May. 2 weeks go by and I still had no sign of a refund. I called up and got Dusty on the phone and he told me to send an email. This was really Red flag #4, as I immediately sent the tracking number for the cores with the order number as soon as I had it. I also up to this point had sent two emails prior to calling asking for the status. Dusty had finally responded and let me know they received the cores, and that they had been misplaced because they were moving shops. While I understand these things happen, $800 dollars worth of cores is a big deal to misplace.
Another FTE'r had told me prior to any of this purchase that they were no longer a proponent of 1023 Diesel due to customer service and the tune quality has gone down. I can't speak to the tunes, as I generally am pleased with those so far, coming from an un tuned truck, but the customer service is a big deal to me. Sure, this could have been the perfect storm due to all the COVID-19 happening, but not once was that used as an excuse, and I would generally dismiss it, but 4 different things that stood out to me, something just isn't right.
Rant over, onto the reassembly!
Did you put your injectors in and torque them down when the glue was fresh? I'm in the middle of doing cups right now. I have heard of it done both ways.
Did you put your injectors in and torque them down when the glue was fresh? I'm in the middle of doing cups right now. I have heard of it done both ways.
I didn't, Riff Raff's instructions said to seat them let them sit. I briefly thought about putting them in, but I didn't want to chance possibly disturbing the cups while they were curing.
I didn't, Riff Raff's instructions said to seat them let them sit. I briefly thought about putting them in, but I didn't want to chance possibly disturbing the cups while they were curing.
Makes me wonder now as well. I'm at the cleaning phase of things right now. Usually Clay is always spot on. The tool is a life saver for sure.
Makes me wonder now as well. I'm at the cleaning phase of things right now. Usually Clay is always spot on. The tool is a life saver for sure.
The funny thing is I thought about buying Rosewood's tool for the job but there is no way I would feel comfortable on those rear cylinders using it while the engine is still in the truck. Clay's tool is a real winner for a DIY guy like me who doesnt wrench for a living.
Either is just fine and SOP for install of the cups.
Thank you for the response Clay. It saves me from calling and pestering you. Should have the tool back in the mail tomorrow or the next day at the latest.
Thank you for the response Clay. It saves me from calling and pestering you. Should have the tool back in the mail tomorrow or the next day at the latest.
So someone at my work tested positive for COVID, so here I am, quarantined for 11 days (huh, shouldn't it be 14?) I figured I'd fix my E fuel conversion I did in Jan of 19. While it worked, the line routing left alot to be desired, as I had a few union joints, and a bunch of hose clamps everywhere.I put in an amazon order for the following:
The fuel line is the same stuff Dieselsite supplies in their kit which I must have gotten some of the old roll that had the Goodyear marking on it, as I can no longer find that hose it's only Continental.
Here is the fuel pump and 100 micron filter. I never cared for the hose wrapping back around to just fill the front, but at the time I didn't have a pipe cutter to work with, so I left it. The ground and power wire coming from the oil pressure sensor also wasn't ideal, and it's a good thing I dove into it as the power wire's crimp fell off. This was prior to the heat shrink crimp style I have now.
I mounted the fuel filter and cooler so high also due to the stock metal fuel lines, which is good in terms of clearance, but since this truck isn't geared towards heavy off road where every inch counts, I plan to move it down and back a bit. Here you can also see how I have feed and return lines coming over the top of the cross member and that nasty union joint I had to use when I cut the hose too short.....
Fuel cooler hanging out, I always thought it was cool this was included in their kit as I haven't seen it anywhere else. Does it make a difference over not having one? Can't say for certain, but cooler fuel returning to the tank definitely doesn't hurt anything.
I ended up flipping the T bolt clamps down to make it easier to get a socket on for removing the pump and filter. I loomed the power and ground wires, and used the stainless clamps to make sure they were fixed in place and weren't going to have any movement. At some point the rubbing against the parking brake cable started to dig into my post filter line, so I opted to drill 2 3/4" holes into the frame to run the fuel line through there.
I moved the filter/cooler assembly down and used two of the same holes for the bracket as I did the filter to make drilling less holes. You can also see where I used existing frame holes to mount the clamps for the fuel lines to keep them in place.
Eventually I plan to make the engine side look a bit better, but I need to figure out what to do for the fuel hose. The factory supply line is 5/16's back at the selector, but at some point near the engine gets bigger and exits near the fuel bowl at 3/8's. Not that I really want to go down in size, but if I can change the feed line to 5/16's all the way through and not starve my 160/0 injectors I think I'll be fine. I'll call Dieselsite and see what they recommend when I get around to it.
My fuel pump is making noise lately so I suspect my in tank screens are clogged. I was hoping to not spend a bunch more money after doing the injectors, but I may be doing the 38 Gal tank in the near future. Does anyone have any experience getting rid of the in tank screens altogether? Or is just worth to drop the tank and replace them?
-Jake
Last edited by Khan; 06-24-2020 at 07:17 AM.
Reason: Typo
I've run the Diamond Eye exhaust on my truck for awhile now and it's been awesome, however due to how it routes unless you start hacking away at it, you can't mount the spare underneath the tank. This also takes room of the 38 Gal F26E tank I plan to mount so the exhaust had to be dealt with.
I worked with the limited exhaust and bends I had, and it turned out pretty good.
Luckily I kept all the old mounting hardware, which came in handy as I needed to use the longer hanger and move it back on the frame a few feet. Ford must have planned for this at some point as I already had the holes there for the bracket to bolt to the frame.
Home Depot mock up, The bend and exit of the pipe is just in front of the front of the rear leaf hanger.
Finished product. I put an angle on the pipe to make it look like it's meant to be there vs. someone hacking away with a sawzall.
Nice work. You have brought this truck a long way.
Thanks for the kind words! It's sort of scary when you think back to where you started to where the project is now. I've put enough hours and swear words into this truck that I can't remember them all. From what I can tell, the PO didn't do much to this truck except for weld the Reunel bumper to the frame and some hack wiring on the ICP plug and EOT sensor? whichever one threads into the HPO reservoir.
The orange boot on the turbo intake fell apart when I took it off the first time, I don't think that was ever touched.
I'm still doing research on the 38 gal tank swap, looks pretty straight forward. @red mistress's tank set up has me envious so I'm going to try and "compete" with his.
I called Dieselsite and they said I could delete the pickup foot in the tanks if I wanted, so I plan to do that when I get to it, as well as the "fast fill" mod stuff. I'd rather have the junk getting to my filter where I can reach it vs. in the tank where I can't see what's going on.
Why did the spare not fit? Mine does with a Diamond Eye
I actually dropped the rear tire about 6 months prior to this, but I have plans of putting it back after the 38 gal rear tank. I don't have any pics of it, but the way the Diamond Eye bent around the rear axle was in the way of the spare tire. I could have messed with it more, but I didn't because..... Well the tire wasn't there.
Hit, did what kit did you use when you installed the kit? I used the "Offroad" kit with no cat/ muffler around 2018 time frame. I would ASSume the bends are the same between kits, but that bend over the axle was a good foot or so under the rear tank. Then again I'm a DIY guy with minimal experience as I work in IT for the Air Force, could have been I'm a dummy and didn't orient it right when I put it together the first time.
That being said, boy is the exhaust obnoxious exiting in front of the tire, though I'll get used to that. Does anyone have any real world experience with rubberized under body coatings? I was debating doing that for the front and rear tank, but I've heard negatives about it as well.
I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on a couple orders, I just received a foot of 3/8 stainless 316 tubing from McMaster-Carr and some 316 stainless compression fittings from stainlessteelfittings.com to work towards this 38 gal swap. I'm looking to splurge a little and use AN fittings.
That being said, I siphoned my fuel out of my front tank using the SiphonProXL kit, and it's pretty cool.
It comes with a pump to help get the flow going as well as a crimper to cut the line off to remove the pump to get the full flow. The clear hose that was supplied barely fit, which is 1/2 ID, so I can't wait to to the fuel neck mod and get rid of that crap. That along with the 1/4" rollover valves is why I have to pull the fuel handle out half way to even try the first click to fill both tanks. Big truck pump aside, if I can use the regular pump and full blast I'll be happy.
06-09-2020, 09:42 AM
