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the 7.3 engine came out of a slope truck from Alaska so it has a by pass pulley on it . All the ac stuff is still on the excursion except the ac compressor and line was cut in the picture this picture is the thing I don’t know what it is ? So the top one is pressure switch and the circled one is the charge line ?
I literally strip the new Excursion to a bare skeleton and put all of the 7.3 stuff back in. No wondering or guessing about anything - just look it up in the manual.
The ones I’ve seen that cobbled stuff from the V10 together with 7.3 stuff never ever worked right....
That explains it. I didn’t notice that in pic earlier. Good eye Sous!
The line you circled appears to be high pressure line that will go to the orifice tube and evaporator.
I forget what the split for Excursion rear AC looks like, but basically the rear evaporator is parallel with the front one.
Yes you are right about the other split , one goes to the accumulator and the other goes to the rear but I thought the orifice tube goes in between the lines where the accumulator is ? And could I get away with the both evaporators ? What are the chances of them being no good ? My dog literally today tore my drywall off the house and it’s not even my house so I got more bills now lol
The orifice tube is in the quick connect fitting near accumulator.
If the evaporators don’t have debris in them and don’t leak, they’re good.
How would I know if there isn’t any trash in it ? And I read that flushing it really doesn’t work on new vehicles because of the thin fins and design???
No idea how to know what got in a system that was left open.
If it was MY truck and I had access to a refrigeratant recovery system, I’d probably put the missing pieces on with new orifice tubes and see what happens. If there is an obstruction somewhere, you’d recover the Freon and replace more parts.
I would encourage a customer to just replace everything - scorched earth approach. This provides a 99.99% chance of first-try long term success.
No idea how to know what got in a system that was left open.
If it was MY truck and I had access to a refrigeratant recovery system, I’d probably put the missing pieces on with new orifice tubes and see what happens. If there is an obstruction somewhere, you’d recover the Freon and replace more parts.
I would encourage a customer to just replace everything - scorched earth approach. This provides a 99.99% chance of first-try long term success.
well I have a condenser , accumulator , compressor , O-tube and compressor lines on the way I’ll hook those up and see what happens
How would I know if there isn’t any trash in it ? And I read that flushing it really doesn’t work on new vehicles because of the thin fins and design???
I have to correct my self, there is indeed a high pressure cutoff switch as mentioned earlier on the liquid discharge line at the compressor (7.3). Flushing an A/C system is cleaning the inside of the system, the tubes and all Freon pathways. Your coil fins on the front condenser and both evaporators are cleaned externally without interfering with the Freon system. The front evaporator is a fixed orifice metering method which is after the liquid line split off to the rear, and located in the quick connect joint. The liquid line split off to the rear feeds the TXV, or Thermal Expansion Valve, which is a variable metering device. This allows both coils to regulate separately as long as the compressor is running. When the front system is being used, but the fan for the rear is off, the TXV closes and the refrigerant flows through the front only, if it didn't the rear coil would ice over. The fixed orifice for the front also strains debris from the system, but the rear TXV does not. The system's oil is hygroscopic and therefore a sponge for moisture, oil travels throughout the entire system when running. R-134A and water will create Hydrofluoric acid causing internal system damage. "Pumping a system down", "Evacuating", or 'Pulling a vacuum" after the system has been open even for short periods is really a requirement because of this. Vacuum was and still can be measured in (Hg) inches of vacuum, or more commonly microns. Both require a set of gauges, or a micron gauge. Once your system is back together with all the correct hoses new O rings, and pressure tested with nitrogen, it may be best to just take it to a good shop to have them flush the system with the solvent flush, then evacuate, and charge.
7.3 System pic below.
The blue arrow is your suction line as you know,
The top red arrow is the liquid discharge line high pressure switch already mentioned above,
The bottom red arrow is your compressor high pressure discharge line with the high service port, this line enters the condenser,
The bottom orange arrow is the exit line from the condenser,
The second orange arrow, just under the yellow is the same condenser outlet line with the split off to the rear system,
The yellow arrow is the quick release connector, inlet to the front evaporator, and houses the fixed orifice,
I have to correct my self, there is indeed a high pressure cutoff switch as mentioned earlier on the liquid discharge line at the compressor (7.3). Flushing an A/C system is cleaning the inside of the system, the tubes and all Freon pathways. Your coil fins on the front condenser and both evaporators are cleaned externally without interfering with the Freon system. The front evaporator is a fixed orifice metering method which is after the liquid line split off to the rear, and located in the quick connect joint. The liquid line split off to the rear feeds the TXV, or Thermal Expansion Valve, which is a variable metering device. This allows both coils to regulate separately as long as the compressor is running. When the front system is being used, but the fan for the rear is off, the TXV closes and the refrigerant flows through the front only, if it didn't the rear coil would ice over. The fixed orifice for the front also strains debris from the system, but the rear TXV does not. The system's oil is hygroscopic and therefore a sponge for moisture, oil travels throughout the entire system when running. R-134A and water will create Hydrofluoric acid causing internal system damage. "Pumping a system down", "Evacuating", or 'Pulling a vacuum" after the system has been open even for short periods is really a requirement because of this. Vacuum was and still can be measured in (Hg) inches of vacuum, or more commonly microns. Both require a set of gauges, or a micron gauge. Once your system is back together with all the correct hoses new O rings, and pressure tested with nitrogen, it may be best to just take it to a good shop to have them flush the system with the solvent flush, then evacuate, and charge.
7.3 System pic below.
The blue arrow is your suction line as you know,
The top red arrow is the liquid discharge line high pressure switch already mentioned above,
The bottom red arrow is your compressor high pressure discharge line with the high service port, this line enters the condenser,
The bottom orange arrow is the exit line from the condenser,
The second orange arrow, just under the yellow is the same condenser outlet line with the split off to the rear system,
The yellow arrow is the quick release connector, inlet to the front evaporator, and houses the fixed orifice,
Hopefully my babbling and pics help...
V-10 Suction Hose.
7.3 Suction Hose..
Yes that really helped it kept showing other stuff when I kept trying to look it up ! So if I take it to the shop which like 95 percent are closed now but should I leave every thing unhooked and capped off till the do there flush and charge ?
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