It wouldn't hurt to get everything connected, and pressure tested with nitrogen. You can leave a small charge of nitrogen in there too.

 

when you mean pressure tested you mean with a vacuum pump

 

If it holds a vacuum, it probably won’t leak. He is referring to ‘charging’ the system with nitrogen and see if it holds pressure.

 

can I order that off the Internet or is it something I’m going to make ?

 

A vacuum is measurement of which is below atmospheric pressure. Atmospheric pressure is what's around us. A leak can be present under vacuum but not pressure sometimes. A perfect example was my own system this march, I did a few repairs and had trouble getting it to pull into a vacuum. A few nitrogen pressure tests at around 125psi sitting for days with no change on my gauges had me thinking no leak. But the system wouldn't pull into a deep vacuum. The analog gauges would read 32Hg, but the micrometer was dancing all over the place. My compressor shaft seal was one of the culprits, never leaked when charged with Freon and my X sits in the garage mostly. The whole reason I opened the system up was to replace the front Evaporator. The V-10 I bought had a leaky front coil so I bought a new coil and box assy from the dealer, installed it into the 7.3, and used my good coil in the V-10. My system would hold pressure, but not a vacuum. I then mixed Freon with nitrogen hoping the nitrogen would would push the Freon to the leak, which it did. This is probably because of the molecule size is different between various freons, and nitrogen. Numerous leak tests later, the compressor was replaced due to a shaft seal leak, body half seal leak, and the rear evap coil leak. Once all those were replaced, I could pull a proper vacuum.
Nitrogen is something you can usually get at a welding supply, there are various tank sizes, and you'll need a regulator. If you're planning on having the system professionally flushed, evacuated, and charged very soon after your repairs, than you can add a small amount of 134A (say 5psi) rotate the compressor by hand several turns to circulate and test for leaks, you'll need a suitable leak detector.
Assembling your hoses with new O rings coated with a little PAG oil (Polyalkylene Glycol) is pretty straight forward and you shouldn't have any issues with leaks at those points. Your biggest concern would be both evaporator coils and their condition. And you won't know that till you ultimately pull a vacuum.

 

thanks for the knowledge youv been a big help and the other people as well my ac lines come in today and compressor comes tomorrow prelims I have to get the bolts that hold the lines one cause they are missing and I’m not even going to bother with the condenser I’m just going to replace that and the accumulator hopefully next pay check

 

Nice....
Do you have a shop manual? New parts replacement requires oil to be added prior to part installation per the manual. That would work out well, you will have clean parts with the recommended amount of oil, and once sealed up and leak free, it will hold till an evacuation.

 

no shop manual but I believe it’s 11oz of oil and 28 oz of Freon ? The ac compressor I got it today and it was pre oiled would anyone happen to have the bolts for the the compressor and to the lines that connects to the compressor, accumulator and the condenser?

 

I'll dig up the specs on the oil charge. Each component holds an amount of oil which you need to either add if the part is new, or match by measuring what comes out of the old parts.
Usually you only need nuts, the bolt shaft is part of the hoses and condenser.

 

I’ll look for the bolts you need tomorrow.

 

Cool thank you !!!

 

Did you ever get those compressor bolts? I can’t find them online all that comes up is the ac bracket bolts

 

I definitely have some. Remembering to dig them out has been a problem....

I just made myself a note!!!

 

thank you so much !!! I just saw that on the compressor box that it is prefilled with the “correct” amount of oil would that mean for the entire ac system or just the correct amount for the ac compressor itself ? And I do I need to shim the clutch ?

 

My AC knowledge is fading, but I think there is a total system volume of oil and what is typically found in the compressor....

There is a shim from the factory. We often remove the shin to compensate for wear of the clutch/pulley. You need an air gap so the clutch doesn’t drag when disengaged, but not so big it won’t grab to engage.