When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's a long shot, but have you thought about buying the same hose for non rear A/C applications? You'll possibly be able to graft your rear A/C aluminum hose onto the new hose assembly. This will give you an OE part with the GoodYear rubber hose.
my phone doesn’t like this site a lot lol I just saw this but I went and found a used one for about 100 bucks so the odd thing is the ac line isn’t a split line . I couldnt fix the line I took it to get tig welded and the line was falling apart on itself. My question next is do I need to worry about the ac oil absorbing moisture ????????i know the oil is hydroscopic but I don’t know if me replacing the accumulator and vacuum and charge will make everything good ? I live out in the desert and when I first found the leak I just tapped it off till I could get a line . I’m just trying to make sure I do everything right with the ac
Just put it on a long vacuum, like 60 minutes. Should be fine.
ok I’ll throw another accumulator on it just for safe measure throw a vacuum and charge !! I want to thank you and 01_excursion so much for helping me !
Yes the accumulator, receiver/drier should be replaced, and best to evacuate to at least 32 iwg, as shown on the low side gauge, or better to 100 microns or less measured with a micrometer. If any of the remaining oil has absorbed moisture, it takes a long time to boil out, I've had some vehicles on the pump for 6 or 8 hours.
Yes the accumulator, receiver/drier should be replaced, and best to evacuate to at least 32 iwg, as shown on the low side gauge, or better to 100 microns or less measured with a micrometer. If any of the remaining oil has absorbed moisture, it takes a long time to boil out, I've had some vehicles on the pump for 6 or 8 hours.
so I finally got around and put the new accumulator on I got side tracked on different things but the kink on the low pressure line from the ac compressor is bad should I just take it to a shop and have them see if they can make a line for it ? The line is so bad I took you advice and thought the link would inflate and be fine but it’s so bad that it’s restricting the line and I got it up to about 4 bar before I stopped
Going to a hose shop may be the best idea. I wonder if they can cut the rubber hose where it's bent, and make a boomerang bend metal hose and crimp that in. That hose is the compressor suction hose, it needs to stay rigid. The factory hose for non rear ac system is still avail. Maybe purchase that so you can get the front system going at minimum.
Going to a hose shop may be the best idea. I wonder if they can cut the rubber hose where it's bent, and make a boomerang bend metal hose and crimp that in. That hose is the compressor suction hose, it needs to stay rigid. The factory hose for non rear ac system is still avail. Maybe purchase that so you can get the front system going at minimum.
I called and no one in a 120 mile radius would be able to help me . So I looked around and I seen a 90 degree or 180 bead lock splice that might work ? Would a regular crimper work with the hose size for the suction line or is it too big ?
So I just go back from a field training and my wife says that the ac isn’t blowing as cold as it used to it would only blow about 70 degrees out of the vents and wouldn’t get any colder than that it takes a really long time for to even get that cold around 5-10 mins and that was when it was 112 outside and that’s when I’m driving ! I hooked my gauges up to it and this is what I got . These are the readings I got after everything was stable and when I turned it off the pressures on both sides equalized to 7 bar I’m not sure where else to go . The high side is low it should have been at 22-23 bar based on temp outside . Anyone have any ideas ????
I'm lost, was reading the posts, what exactly did you do in the way of repairing the chaffing holes, kinked suction hose. How did you evacuate the system, then charge? Did you check the orifice/strainer?
Pressures while not running don't tell us much. Take another picture of gauges with AC system running.
the picture I showed with the gauge set was with truck running both front and rear air blowing 3.8 bar (55.1 psi) for suction side and 16 bar (232 psi ) for high side
. temp out side 112
I'm lost, was reading the posts, what exactly did you do in the way of repairing the chaffing holes, kinked suction hose. How did you evacuate the system, then charge? Did you check the orifice/strainer?
I forgot to post it yes I got a custom ac line made and a replacement high pressure line for the rear ac , any time I ran into a problem where the ac was going to be opened I bought a new accumulator and installed it and I vacuumed it down for about two hours , then charged it I havent had any leaks or anything . I know I was told by someone on here I can’t remember to use a different orfice tube and that would help with a little colder ac
the picture I showed with the gauge set was with truck running both front and rear air blowing 3.8 bar (55.1 psi) for suction side and 16 bar (232 psi ) for high side
. temp out side 112
My bad. I agree your high side seems low for the ambient temperature. Maybe your orifice tube has failed.
You think the alternate orfice tube couldn’t handle it ??apparently this one makes the Freon move slower
A failed orifice tube is the only thing I can think of that would prevent the hi-side from building pressure assuming everything else is working as it should.