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Ac compressor compatibility?

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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 09:56 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Mayham7.3
Did you ever get those compressor bolts? I can’t find them online all that comes up is the ac bracket bolts
One step closer!! PM me an address.



 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 10:41 AM
  #62  
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The compressor should have the amount of oil that comes out of the old compressor, not the total system capacity.

I've usually been told to drain the oil out of the old and measure it, but I've had limited success with getting as much oil out as is supposed to be in there.

Some oil will also come out with the refrigerant when the system is evacuated, and that should be replaced also.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 10:44 AM
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Dont mess with your new clutch. Shimming should be set correctly from the manufacturer. The shims only need to be messed with when the clutch material wears out and the air gap gets larger than the magnet can overcome.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 02:51 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by kbeefy
Dont mess with your new clutch. Shimming should be set correctly from the manufacturer. The shims only need to be messed with when the clutch material wears out and the air gap gets larger than the magnet can overcome.
ok thanks you for that info I’m still in the learning curve for ac systems I just need to get vacuum pump so I can get it together it’s breaking almost 120F out here .
 
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Old Jul 17, 2020 | 02:54 PM
  #65  
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I know this might sound dumb but do the excursions with rear air also have a 2nd accumulator? I ask this because the one line that feeds to the accumulator Forks off right before the accumulator. Does it not need to go to the accumulator or what ? And if I flush the system which line do I need to push the flush through ?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 02:00 PM
  #66  
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Flush your condenser, I would go from the outlet flushing back towards the compressor. You want to get as much contaminates from the old compressor out of it as you can.

There is only one Accumulator, the auxilary (rear) system does not have one. It should be replaced along with the fixed orifice tube when a new compressor is installed.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 03:03 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by kbeefy
Flush your condenser, I would go from the outlet flushing back towards the compressor. You want to get as much contaminates from the old compressor out of it as you can.

There is only one Accumulator, the auxilary (rear) system does not have one. It should be replaced along with the fixed orifice tube when a new compressor is installed.
I just ordered the accumulator and orifice both (Motorcraft) a condenser and already have the ac line that connects to the compressor and I have the rebuilt compressor . Where is the orifice located
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 03:26 PM
  #68  
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You want a 38639 orifice tube for coldest AC. It goes inside the line to evaporator at quick disconnect joint.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 04:25 PM
  #69  
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Did not know Superdutys could benefit from a different size tube.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kbeefy
Did not know Superdutys could benefit from a different size tube.
Oh yeah. This is the ‘cold air orifice tube’.

Careful, evaporator will freeze up with low fan on MAX AC. Especially with a ball valve on heater core supply.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 05:53 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Oh yeah. This is the ‘cold air orifice tube’.

Careful, evaporator will freeze up with low fan on MAX AC. Especially with a ball valve on heater core supply.
well that will come in handy it gets upwards of 140 degrees out here ! What would I need to flush the ac ? Do I need to take it a shop to have the system flushed ? The system has been left open for about a year when I got it
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 06:34 PM
  #72  
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I am not an expert, but if the compressor didn’t blow chunks - I think you can just evacuate it and add refrigerant if it doesn’t leak down.

I think the ‘book’ may say otherwise, but I’ve done the above to a few trucks and had no issues.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 07:21 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
I am not an expert, but if the compressor didn’t blow chunks - I think you can just evacuate it and add refrigerant if it doesn’t leak down.

I think the ‘book’ may say otherwise, but I’ve done the above to a few trucks and had no issues.
the only reason I’m concerned is that I live in a desert and it’s really sandy and dusty out here
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 07:27 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Mayham7.3
the only reason I’m concerned is that I live in a desert and it’s really sandy and dusty out here
Understood.

The way I was taught long ago was to use a siphon nozzle blow gun and blow denatured alcohol through each component until it was clean. Put new o-rings everywhere, add oil and evacuate/Charge. But I’ve never done this to a PSD...
 
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Old Jul 18, 2020 | 08:36 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
Oh yeah. This is the ‘cold air orifice tube’.

Careful, evaporator will freeze up with low fan on MAX AC. Especially with a ball valve on heater core supply.

I read somewhere that the OE was a compromise to accommodate different climates. I'm in central Oregon where it is very dry (high mountain dessert) and high is (rarely) about 100 degrees.

I was trying to find information to tell me if it would be beneficial or detrimental. I have an AC recovery machine (2, actually) and it would be very easy for me to change.
 
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