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I’m not sure lpop is going to solve your problem. It is not responsible for keeping oil in the HPO reservoir. The only thing you need to remove is the belt so you can pull harmonic balancer and lpop. You can ‘rent’ harmonic balancer puller/installer at the autoparts store.
I would almost never change a water pump as PM. Water pump is a 45min job and basically is never a catastrophic failure, giving lots of notice it needs attention (leaks).
There is a check valve in the front of the valley and another in the oil cooler that prevent oil from draining out of the reservoir.
Can someone post a pic of the lpo routing diagram??
If you are leaking that much oil, is be inclined to fix that first. Most oil leaks are cheap and easy to fix. I would also replace up-pipes if removing turbo. See my thread about up-pipe replacement for tips on removing turbo/up-pipes and how to DIY delete EBPV.
I’m not sure lpop is going to solve your problem. It is not responsible for keeping oil in the HPO reservoir. The only thing you need to remove is the belt so you can pull harmonic balancer and lpop. You can ‘rent’ harmonic balancer puller/installer at the autoparts store.
I would almost never change a water pump as PM. Water pump is a 45min job and basically is never a catastrophic failure, giving lots of notice it needs attention (leaks).
There is a check valve in the front of the valley and another in the oil cooler that prevent oil from draining out of the reservoir.
Can someone post a pic of the lpo routing diagram??
If you are leaking that much oil, is be inclined to fix that first. Most oil leaks are cheap and easy to fix. I would also replace up-pipes if removing turbo. See my thread about up-pipe replacement for tips on removing turbo/up-pipes and how to DIY delete EBPV.
I hear what your saying , I wish I was leaking oil , I am burning at it at an alarming rate! I am hoping that I can get away with orings on the injectors, I will check out the check valves you pointed out, daily driver so have to do things in stages, Sous actually posted a link earlier that showed somebody else with the L pop so I think that had a diagram and I still got that link saved, Any suggestions for a reliable rebuilt injectors
I hear what your saying , I wish I was leaking oil , I am burning at it at an alarming rate! I am hoping that I can get away with orings on the injectors, I will check out the check valves you pointed out, daily driver so have to do things in stages
Burning oil ‘at an alarming rate’ with no blow-by is likely injector internals or maybe failing turbo.
If you dont find obvious failed injector o-rings - I would not waste the $$ on new o-rings.
Ok folks i need to clarify a few things, reading over the post seems i'm a little scattered, I had planned on rebuilding the fuel bow , grabbed a few other items to have just in case scenario.
then the ole girl start puffing some smoke, i wasn't to concerned , figured turbo pedestal or maybe injector rings , 248k things wear out.
Now she is burning oil as i said at an alarming rate, put 2 gallons in her yesterday, yes 2 gallons! no leaks any where, all going out the exhaust!
so all i need to do is stop the insanity, been working my tail off trying to finish a couple jobs and worried about this thing leaving me stranded has got me a little stressed!
so can a bad turbo burn that much oil, if so what do i need to do, can i rebuild it, or do i get another?
lol help me help myself i can do the work just don't want to be throwing parts at it!
Yes, it can literally dump liquid oil into the downpipe and smoke out small villages. Usually smoke is BAD after idling at red light and not so visible while driving under load.
Yes, it can literally dump liquid oil into the downpipe and smoke out small villages. Usually smoke is BAD after idling at red light and not so visible while driving under load.
I was going to ask if a bad turbo would smoke at idle, that is exactly what is going on , smokes bad at start up , driving not so bad the while idling smoke gets increasingly worse, need to deal with this pronto, can I rebuild it if there is no shaft play?
Unless the compressor wheel has contacted, and damaged either/both the housing and wheel, when you get the rebuild kit you will get new shaft seals, bearings and thrust bearing...and some install o-rings. Should fix you right up.
There will almost certainly be shaft play if that’s what’s causing your smoke. Like Dan said, if the wheels have contacted the housings you will need another turbo.
I’d pull the hot side intercooler pipe off and see what kind of mess there is in there. My original turbo was starting to leak oil pretty badly into the compressor side. Hot side into the downpipe wasn’t quite as bad if recall correctly but I know the piston ring on the hot side had very little tension left in it and putting the new one on seemed to clean up the exhaust and cut oil consumption a small amount. There is quite a bit of oil that can be lost in that area with the upper and lower pedestal seals, EBPV actuator, and all the internal turbo seals.
