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I am not sure if an E99 turbo is the same as the rest of them, but there is one in the classifieds section right now and he might be motivated to sell it...
If you decide to rebuild, I highly recommend the RR 4/4 wheel, it was a solid performer for me for many years. The RR boots and clamps are another great choice. You can loose a lot of power if your boots are not properly installed.
Oil in the intake is normal, as Mark has indicated. Not a big deal at all, as long as your air box/intake are sealed and no dirty air is getting in.
I know you said there is no shaft movement, but those notches concern me just from a quick visual inspection via the pictures you took. I cannot recall any other OEM wheel having those notches in them. Maybe there are though and I am wrong. If not, then there most certainly is shaft movement and contact.
Perhaps once the wheel is spinning at 20,000 RPM there is some movement, I don't know.
Now you have me wondering...the notion that oil can end up in the fuel tank through bad injector O-rings is like common knowledge around here. Yet when I think about what you put there I see what you are saying. I mean, more than one has opened up their fuel filter and seen black filter element. So...what gives?
There are a few things that are ‘common knowledge here’ that have zero scientific basis (read: MYTHS).
The ‘black filters’ are not from oil contamination.
Honestly Besides the oil this thing is burning, I am just trying to find out why and whats broken, that's why i am talking to you guys wrong clamps on the plenum boot, damaged turbo blades
would suggest some rebuilding is needed
Those are the factory clamps, you can’t use t-bolt style clamps there unless you have the Plenum inserts.
Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
How do you know the turbo burning oil? Is that picture of the turbo yours? How did the blades get damaged if there's no play?
Damage is likely from injesting dirt over a long period of time. Honestly, that damage isn’t bad...
Originally Posted by Listor
That's what i am investigating, It was suggested that i look at the turbo, so i did and yes that is my turbo, No idea what they did to this truck before i got it LOL
I will pull the up pipes tonight to see if they are full of oil, if not then i will need to look elsewhere for the problem, BUT this will need to be dealt with as well
No reason to take up-pipes off....
You can remove downpipe and look for oil, coking, goey mess that would indicate turbo seal failure.
I am not sure if an E99 turbo is the same as the rest of them, but there is one in the classifieds section right now and he might be motivated to sell it...
If you decide to rebuild, I highly recommend the RR 4/4 wheel, it was a solid performer for me for many years. The RR boots and clamps are another great choice. You can loose a lot of power if your boots are not properly installed.
Oil in the intake is normal, as Mark has indicated. Not a big deal at all, as long as your air box/intake are sealed and no dirty air is getting in.
I know you said there is no shaft movement, but those notches concern me just from a quick visual inspection via the pictures you took. I cannot recall any other OEM wheel having those notches in them. Maybe there are though and I am wrong. If not, then there most certainly is shaft movement and contact.
Perhaps once the wheel is spinning at 20,000 RPM there is some movement, I don't know.
They are not the same but I don't know that they are not interchangeable. The compressor side is definitely smaller on the E's. And I'm thinking that the cold outlet is smaller on the E's.
They are not the same but I don't know that they are not interchangeable. The compressor side is definitely smaller on the E's. And I'm thinking that the cold outlet is smaller on the E's.
Thank you sir for the quick clarification so that Listor does not have to take time to research even more answers to questions.
They are not the same but I don't know that they are not interchangeable. The compressor side is definitely smaller on the E's. And I'm thinking that the cold outlet is smaller on the E's.
This is not an E99 and they are not interchangeable. You’ll want L99+ replacement turbo.
Wont bad injector o-rings turn the fuel returning to the tank black though even on a stock deadheaded fuel system? Then obviously that will turn the filter and fuel in the bowl black. I know that happens because I have dumped 3-4 gallons of black waste oil into the fuel tank and sure enough it turned the filter black.
Wont bad injector o-rings turn the fuel returning to the tank black though even on a stock deadheaded fuel system? Then obviously that will turn the filter and fuel in the bowl black. I know that happens because I have dumped 3-4 gallons of black waste oil into the fuel tank and sure enough it turned the filter black.
I have seen this here on FTE many times. Members with a lot of experience the 7.3 believe the "black filter" is from oil getting past the injector o-rings and returning to the fuel bowl and the making the filter black and also returning to the tank by the return line at the bowl. Sounds believable.
Except.
On the stock system their are no return lines from the heads back to the bowl. Some will say the higher pressure of the injector will overcome the lower pressure of the fuel and force a mix of fuel and oil back to the bowl. This is where I start to not believe so much.
I have a fuel pressure sender, for monitoring fuel pressure, installed on the out going (heads) side of the fuel bowl. The ONLY time I see the pressure below ~60psi is on cold start-up. My process to start my cold engine is I cycle the key and wait for the glow plugs to go through their timeout. This cycle is longer than the fuel pump runs. When the fuel pump times out and shuts off, I watch my fuel pressure drop from ~60 to 0 psi. So this is the only time fuel could possibly get back to the bowl IMHO, because the pressure drops to 0. All other times when the engine is running the fuel pressure never drops below ~60.
I have decided not to worry about this as I believe black fuel filters do no harm.
I don’t know what the LPOP pressure is for certain while the motor is running at various speeds and loads but somebody way back in the day figured out it was possible for it to cross contaminate fuel and oil at the injector o-rings. You would think fuel would cross contaminate into the oil since the fuel runs ~60 psi even at idle and I doubt the LPOP pressure is that high at a low idle. That should show up as fuel dilution in the oil on an oil analysis I would think.
I’m not certain about the black fuel bowl though on a deadhead vs regulated return. It sounds like Jason is suggesting it is possible for the injector o-rings to be failing and causing the oil loss without any black fuel or filters and that might be so. I can’t really say for certain. I am also having a hard time fathoming when the LPOP pressure would ever be higher than the fuel on properly working fuel system.
that dog-eared compressor wheel appears to have been making contact with the housing indicating the whole rotating assembly is probably shot. I’ve rebuilt turbos and there is practically zero shaft movement in any direction when they are fresh and the center cartridge is in good condition.
It is not possible for engine oil to get to the fuel filter in a stock truck.
‘Black filters’ are simply not from engine oil.
A failed injector o-ring between the oil and fuel ports WILL inject oil into the fuel side of the injector and BURN the oil. But there is not enough oil volume present to push oil upstream through the fuel to the filter.
More common is internal injector wear that allows the oil to mix with fuel.
I think if there is no evidence of raw oil post-turbo in the exhaust - we can rule out a turbo failure.
This compressor wheel took a beating. There was a k&n drop in filter and a broken air box.
No play in this turbo shaft (no smoke or other complaints). This truck was here for up-pipes and got turbo rebuild, RDP boots, RDP 4+4 compressor wheel, etc ‘while we were in there’.
It is not possible for engine oil to get to the fuel filter in a stock truck.
‘Black filters’ are simply not from engine oil.
A failed injector o-ring between the oil and fuel ports WILL inject oil into the fuel side of the injector and BURN the oil. But there is not enough oil volume present to push oil upstream through the fuel to the filter.
More common is internal injector wear that allows the oil to mix with fuel.
I think if there is no evidence of raw oil post-turbo in the exhaust - we can rule out a turbo failure.
This compressor wheel took a beating. There was a k&n drop in filter and a broken air box.
No play in this turbo shaft (no smoke or other complaints). This truck was here for up-pipes and got turbo rebuild, RDP boots, RDP 4+4 compressor wheel, etc ‘while we were in there’.
