HA , may be. you can always paint em' ! Marketers like to make em' look flashy !!
Those KYB are a good value tho...

 

I was looking at a set of Gabriel Load Carriers. Not sure that I need them, but sounds nice.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...059&cc=1120565
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...022&cc=1120565

 

Got the old 83 running. Got it timed and carb close and drove around some. Running very good. I’m not happy with the fuel line. The Edelbrock has the inlet at the rear passenger side. I’m gonna make a new steel line from the fuel pump to the carb. Right now I’m running about 2’ plus of rubber line.
next off to the exhaust shop.

 

That milky look is rust converter not yet dried.
Have something similar Kramer, not sure of the brand tho. On the 95' and they do work well. Sitting proud with a full load of firewood. Here's a pic of them when the fuel pumps were replaced.

 

I think they said the rear were load leveling. I'm not sure I need that at all, but seeing as how they cost about the same as everything else and they fit my color scheme, I'm going to try them when I get a chance.What rust converted did you use? I was supposed to install a new commode for a friend today, yesterday he mentioned carpet. Looks exactly like a full remodel now.

 

Big fan of the rust converters. There are many brands, this was Permatex. Generally, I like the ones that go on milky and then turn black. There is another type that is more of just an acid and works as a primer and needs to get painted afterward, it is less expensive and more like a clear liquid, some even pump spray it on for larger areas. In fact, may try that with the 70' as the bed floor is solic gold rust that needs sealed up before it sees any rain or dew. Glad you got work, many laid off and waiting. I farm and ranch so there's always WORK; whether get paid or not is a different story lol.
Stay safe.

Still huntin' that power disc and steering parts.

 

I've used ospho quite a bit and it works well. Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver is really good as well. I like soaking hardware in it. Comes out looking brand new.

 

Haven't used the dissolver before, have to give it a try sometime, most of my old stuff is rusty! Did pick up a new gallon of Berryman's carb cleaner last week. Man, that stuff is $25 bucks now. Last one i got 20 years ago was like $12 I think.
Ospho, is that the clear type rust converter?

 

Sea green in color. It's a cold phosphorus process. It'll burn your lungs really good so wear some kind of respirator. It's water thin. You can dip it wipe it on or use a spray bottle or pump up sprayer depending on how big a job it is.

 

Roger that. Guy at the parts store mentioned it and wasn't sure what he was referring to. Definately will use protection.

 

First post to the group....Ospho should work like Krud Kutter….been using it lately and it is green too. Works pretty darn well!!! For my frame and large parts and under body I used Corraseal. It is white and goes from purple to blue to black/clear during the conversion process. I don't have long term info yet but initial results are great. It leaves a healthy level of protection over the metal as well. Just finished my frame and under cab this past weekend....what a task! Sure wish I had the room to pull the entire cab off, and had everything blasted.
Anyway, just thought I would chime in. Some sample pics. The old Hell Bitch's frame is all nice and new looking as of today and now onto redoing brake lines.

Also, I just posted an oil pan in the market place for an FE. Just incase anyone in the AR chapter is looking for one. Local in central AR.

 

Hey Dustin, hadn't heard of the Corraseal, will have to give it a try. What store do you find it in?
Checked out your pan, why are you selling? Might be interested and I have a set of stock rods from my current build left over, but no crank.

 

I ordered it offline since I have not seen it around but Home Depot is supposed to carry it. It is semi-common in the house painting world. It is actually what most marine industries use when redoing paint and rust....so has to be good. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Corrosea...2320/202960538 There is a link to it. A gallon on Amazon is $50. Works really well. Only thing I have noticed is that humidity effects the process but I think that is the case with most of them. Instructions cover all that as well. The primer it leaves behind is pretty tough and flexible. Would not use it for a fender or visible body panel though I think you can sand it. As far as frames, trailers, heavy duty abused parts...it is great. Topped it off with VHT Chassis and Frame paint. That is some good stuff as well but pricey and very hard on the lungs....a respirator is a must. I will try to get some updated pics as well on the frame.

On the oil pan. When I dyno'd my build (home built 445 Stroker) I started losing oil pressure....pumping the sump dry. The design looks good but if you start thinking about it you can see that the capacity for the rear sump is not helped by the front small sump. The design is sort of flawed but can be over come by running a lot of oil. I want to say it took 8 quarts on the dyno to stop this...FE's will have 3 or more not in the pan when running....So, given what I saw, I decided to go a different route. This is a non issue for daily driving, off road etc. and easily overcome by running more oil than it states BUT I did not like it...I just could not get over it and went with a Milodon Pan. Call it my OCD I guess...they sell a bunch of them. Mind you I am running a HV pump etc....pretty healthy build but a semi mild cam and we were turning it 6,200 plus.

 

Good info on the products, gotta give that stuff a try. New to me. Appreciate the info there.

Interesting insight on the pan as well. Have a 390 at the machinist now with the short block done and awaiting a stock truck pan, as this was a car engine and this one going into the 69' F-250. What you say makes perfect sense too. Using a high pressure oil pump on mine and blocking the upper flow some. Low pressure was / is one of my concerns. This is my first 390 btw. Looked for other pans to use and came away unsatisfied that any would not create fitment problems, which I wanted to avoid. Will probably run an extra quart in the stock truck pan which is , I think, 6 quarts.
What will your engine be going into, and is there someone in central Ark that provides a break in service with a dyno??
Had ask around and came up empty, and since this truck is not together for some time would greatly prefer NOT to have the break in dependent on too many other factors.

 

I hope I do not run into fitment issues with this Milodon…..it was not clear a couple of years ago when I ordered it as they do not say fits a 4x4...I know the factory rear sump pan was narrow at the front tapering to the back. This new pan is large upfront. Probably 4 plus inches and I am worried it will hit my cross member. BUT it is supposed to fit from my research. Will know in a month or two....another reason my first choice was the Canton. Wish I had kept my factory pan but the pickup tube was in bad shape and the pan as well....so much was wrong with the OE engine from prior owners.....never seen that much silicone or other debris in an oil pan. Still can't believe it ran as good as it did(after I did a cam/intake swap)….but it did not last very long. Spun main and lost oil pressure. That is how I ended up going the 445 route.
Engine and trans (both done by me, and first attempt at either) are going into my '75 F250 4x4. Frame work is done, so now to finish new brake lines, tidy up electrical and stuff the heart back into the beast.

I had my block work done at ****z down in Arkadelphia and they also dyno'd it. Had some issues(my fault/newby) so we did not get to do any tuning per say but the base line was 488 HP and 547 Tq…..I feel it will do about 510 and 560 tq. Custom roller cam and BBM heads. I wish I had opened up the return holes in the head or turned down the head bolt a bit to aid in drain back. I didn't and don't want to go back into it...lot of opinions but I feel slightly restricting the oil up top helps keep pressures on the mains but I am not a fan of over doing it....I feel the flaw is in the drain back hole personally.
The guys at ****z are great people to work with and between them and KCraft there are no better FE people in the area. Give them a call. The Dyno part is a bit pricey but you gotta understand what all it takes.....I was really surprised to see how much work goes into just running one on a dyno.


Forgive the chessy Edelbrock Valve Covers etc. but for the price they made sense. Some nice finned aluminums would have been better but I was trying to save what little was left in the budget!