Oh My, that is one sweet engine there! Very nice power figures.
Those extra cubes really do equate to hp. Did not stroke mine but replaced rods and forged pistons and .030 over. Expect about 425 with it. Also, no roller cam.
Bet you can get the pan to work, sometimes you have to do a little creative hammer work, ouch!
Braver than I to do the assembly my friend, but I lack experience. Guess you have a manual trans? Mine is a slush box; but I will try to install a shift kit and replace the torque converter with a higher stall alternative.
Using the RPM Edelbrock pieces for heads and intake on mine. What carb have you chosen? Their 1407 here with a pcv system.
Like that you kept the heads alloy, looks really good.
Know what you mean about the budget, cause I have about 5x in my engine compared to the truck itself. LOL It is a weakness.
thanks for sharing the pics and info on your build and history. I am really liking this chapter thread as it seems to bring many of us tighter into a network, appreciate the references to your shop also. Not sure what you meant by expensive on the dyno, but would be suprised if it was otherwise. What would a guy need to do the tuning aspect while getting it broken in?
Looks like you will have one super truck when you complete the remaining work. Very nice job!

 

Thanks for the kind words. Currently it has a Holley 750 Vac. Secondary. It will roll with that for a while until I verify all the bugs are worked out. Then I have an FI Tech to go on it. Got it at a really good price but it may have issues....so first thing is first then on to that...likely the last thing the truck gets.
Trans is a C6. I would not say it is complicated but definitely a LOT of parts. I went with Broader Transmissions 500 HP kit and did some required modifications along with their TQ Converter. Valve body was interesting to say the least. I am not worried about the motor so much but the trans, yes....first time for both but completely different functionality. Motors are pretty straight forward. Hydraulics, not so much.
I want to say a day on the dyno is around $700 if memory serves....they don't do hourly...like I said there is a LOT of setup. Break in, on flat tappet, is simply 2,000 rpm or so for 20 minutes....pretty tough on an old motor but I did it on my 360 prior to blowing her up.
They will play with timing and jetting to show the most power. Now, if you run your carb they likely will help tune it for the engine....all things to discuss with them if you go that route. Understand a dyno vs. in the truck is different. There will be tuning and jetting changes (mostly minor) once in the truck.
The dyno will tell what max timing and jetting the motor likes. Driving it will tell you what is needed overall on jetting, and initial timing and curve wise. I am sure I left about 20 plus HP on the table not being able to tune anything. Like I said, we ran into some issues. Dropped a lifter and ended the day fairly quick. We knew we had some issues and in the end it stopped us, just in time but lesson learned. I got lucky but it cost me a good bit to fix my mistake.
425 is very doable with E-Brock heads and RPM intake. Cam grind will make the big difference. I am on some FE Forums which is why I decided to go with a custom cam. It became obvious that the cost was negligible vs a catalog cam but the gains can be huge. Simply because you are maxing out the package for what it is capable of and your use. A good builder will have a lot of data on cams and packages. I am sure ****z does, but I got my cam from Lykins Motorsports in KY.
Good luck to you, sounds like it will be a runner too! I am worried I am going to break some u-joints if it all works as planned....lot of power to push through the stock yokes.
My next learning experience is going to be paint and body.....after the engine and C6 are in and plumbing done, then that is the final step. Currently it is nice and ugly....guess you could call it a sleeper LOL. Ugly as sin but all new drivetrain front to back.
Trust me when I say this thing earned it's nickname....this is a cursed truck...the truck of 3s. Took three rear ends to make 1 that would work, and 3 engines to make 1 that was rebuildable. Before it hits the road again I think I will find a priest to do a exorcism on it.

 

Good write up, i am jealous!
Anybody have experience with building a exhaust on a 93 f150 4x4 with long tube headers? My son wants to put them on his truck. It currently has shortys. The part i am concerned with is bringing the left pipe across to the passenger side. He wants to run pipes like the pulling trucks, which looks like long tubes with straights down both sides to axle. I am afraid that due to the fuel tank we would have to run them too low. We have a excellent muffler shop in Walnut Ridge, but does not want to work on a "less than complete system".
Thanks

 

Dustin, that is too funny about doing an exorcism before hitting the road with it! Surely your time, thought and planning will let it work out to your expectation. We have the ugly in common, cause mine is like that 'other sister' (to the pretty one); but its got good bones. Only rust was under the battery. Otherwise it will need a bed exchange and very minor other body work; probably leave it original paint other than what panels are already off of it. It will be mottled at best. Sleeper also.
Yes, I went the simple route with my engine largely because of the rest of the truck and knowing that I would be spending alot of thought getting all of it worked out properly. Wanted the engine to be simple. Howevere, there is another block of 390 in the shop to build and will be more creative when putting it together!!
Thanks for your firsthand experience with the dyno day. That is all new to me and am glad to know that there is at least one available in the area, did not know that.
You are most likely right about the u joints too. When you put that kind of horsepower in a 50 year old vehicle of any kind, 'they won't turn and they won't stop' . VERY important to have the entire rig up to the task for more than Safety; there can easily be financial (liability) repercusions also in the event of a failure.
May have missed it, but is your truck a 1/2 ton?
Appreciate your sharing all the info, we need to talk sometime, maybe this weekend?

 

Dalton, have no experience on that year, but what I have done in the past is to do everything possible in the shop and then just take the small piece(s) to the muffler shop for any necessary bends, flares, etc.
They may just not want responsibility for the entire job, or the 'end effect' and everything it takes to get it there; but be willing to help with what is clear and easy for them. Just my 2c.

 

The truck is 3/4 ton...Highboy. Brakes are currently what I am working on. Tore off all the lines and redoing them. The distribution block(all drums) is giving me a fit. The piston is locked up inside....waiting on a part to help push it out. If that does not work I will have to figure out what to do. The rest of the drive train and brakes are solid. it was a running driving truck, and went through it all back then....only non new part is the front wheel cylinders. U joints are good but they are small...common upgrade is larger ones but that requires yokes....there 6 yokes on this sucker! That is pricey. It won't be long.....I figure in two months it will be making noise again unless Murphy's Law catches me. As far as shootin the breeze, I am always up for it, but it is hard to nail me down....work all the time and weekends spent working on 1 of 100 projects besides this one....I think I may have overloaded my plate! Once what is in the lineup is done, I am takin a vacay for a while from working on things.

 

Sorry guys, been slacking. Here's the new monthly bs thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-s-thread.html

 

both my bronco with a new motor i cant get it running right its efi

 

One way to fix the FE motor from sucking all the oil out of the pan is to limit the amount of oil it pumps into the rocker assembly. You can drop a holley carburetor main jet into the oil passage the feeds up the rocker pedestal. The recess that is drilled into the head captures the jet in between the pedestal and the head.