Moving along with my set up. I am counting on air coming in this window to keep my mixing area aired out.


Another window for make up air.


Still working on this corner. I wanted to add more filters in the doorway but the prevailing outdoor southwesterly air movement will tend to pull a vacuum on that side of the building. Above the overhead door you can see one of two LED lights I snagged from my wife's laundry room project. All my lighting is covered with Saran wrap.

 

It was imperative that I maintain access to the beer.


And also my work benches.

 

Looks like you have plenty of filtered air coming in.
For me once I started I was in my garage / paint mix area till all paint was on the what ever I was painting.
I did the cab first and did the white then the red. White 1 day and taped off and painted the red the next day.
It was over a 3 day holiday weekend so I would have enough time to complete.

The bed took a little longer as I had to do it in 2 different weekends with a week or 2 between as I went on vacation.
My bed comes apart so the sides & front panel got painted first so I could bolt then to the bed floor to make room for the fenders, tail gate and parts.
If I did not have my sons apt. in 1 of my bays I could have done the bed painting in 1 weekend but you know kids
Dave ----

 

I have the room to paint everything in one shot. Not sure if I have the stamina to do it all in one day.

This afternoon I finally got around to doing something with the underside of the hood. First I degreased it again. Then I hit it with the Scotch Brite pad. The front lip had some surface rust spots that I had already cleaned up and hit with the green Kool aid. I primered those spots. Not sure exactly I'm going to do about painting the underside.


You may have noticed the table saw in that shot. I ripped a piece of old 2x6 for these.


The fenders will hang on them when getting painted. Like this, there is plenty of room to get the door jambs painted as well as the return on the fenders.

 

On the hood I am not sure if the factory painted the whole under side or just the edges, but thinking just the edges?
I painted the whole thing as I think it looks better but if I was going to install a hood pad that covers the center then there is no need to paint the whole thing.

Is your beer cooler a Philco / Ford? That is what the letters look like, Philco.
When I had a shop with dad we had a Kelvinator / AMC box.

The one in my garage is just a normal GE from I think the 70's.
It was my Grandma's, I was renting her house and when she passed I was given the house.
Few years later we remodeled and the box was moved to the basement as a 2nd one.
When we moved it worked so good I did not want leave it behind and is still used as the 2nd box at times.

Nothing works like the old boxes on keeping things cold.
Dave ----

 

Is a pad a one piece deal? I would like to not have to paint there. Right now, I don't believe I have the material to do so. Bill says one gallon of base coat mixed 3:2 will paint everything I have been talking about. Interior, jambs, under valence and entire exterior except the inside of the bed. Also, I have one gallon of clear that mixes 4:1. My skepticism comes from my painting days from long ago, shooting one stage enamels. Bill says that back then I was getting 30% efficiency where as now I should be getting 60%. On this project, the one thing that backs up his statement is that sometimes there seems to be more paint left in the cup than I thought there would be. I did primer the entire exterior with one quart of the epoxy primer mixed 4:1:1.

My beer box is a 1952 Philco. First year for some plastic interior components instead of all porcelain. In 1978, my girlfriend's mother got a new Sears refrigerator. She wanted to give her older, avocado colored unit to grandma. I was enlisted to borrow my dad's pickup and make the transfer. Of course grandma's old Philco had to go somewhere.

 

This is how I solved the painting of the outside, inside and opening of the fuel doors.
Sheet metal was left over from the wheel arches.

 

I guess I decided to paint the underside of the hood. Called Bill at the paint store and ordered an extra quart of base coat. With 10% hardener added, I won't need to clear coat this.


The color is Ford CX, Shadow Gray Metallic

 

LMC makes 2 different pads http://www.lmctruck.com/catalogsearc...ood+insulation

I take it you are using the newer HVLP guns over the old school Binks #7.
I think the HVLP put more product on the panels than in the air and why it goes farther.
When I first started painting my dad had me do "hot paint" jobs. You would heat the alky enamel, no thinning and spray it on hot and dry.
As it cooled it would flow out. When it got a little tacky you would cut the hot paint 50/50 and do a double fog coat and walk away for over night.
Next day it flowed out and looked like glass and being enamel no buffing. When the hardeners came out you could not use them and hot paint it would get hard in the paint cup!

I used 2 qt's just on the inside the cab, under side of hood, door jambs and insides of fenders.
Did not use a full gallon of red on the outside but I also had the white and a short bed so no red paint there.

On the fuel doors I hung them from the rafters to paint them the same time I did the white fender painting.

Cool story on the beer box. If you can do a Google search on what they get for them restored, crazy money!!!!
Dave ----

edit: hood looks great, nice color

 

For the record, I discovered that a mouse had packed one corner of the hood full of insulation that she stole from a roll of duct wrap. After I got that all cleaned out, I sanded the whole underside with 180 grit. It was quick and the hood came out real clean. I shot one coat of epoxy primer on it and followed an hour later with two coats of color.
8 oz. of reduced primer was exactly enough for one coat. I mixed 18 oz. for two coats of base.

Learning how much paint to cover how much area is very helpful.

I mentioned to Bill that I was set up to shoot the whole truck in one shot. He strongly advised against it. He said I would be happier with the results if I broke it up into two or three days. He said that the fog from overspray in a garage setting would mess with the finish. So, I guess that's what I'm going to do. It'll be much more relaxing and I won't have to worry about getting tired.

 

Trying to relax between primer coats and color. These Devilbiss bladder set ups are nice. You can paint with the gun in any position. No mess. Overhead is as easy as it can be.


Two coats of epoxy primer inside the cab. I'm going to use the 10% hardener formula for the color. If it turns out good, I won't shoot clear over it.


The fan location is inducing an air flow through the cab that had me getting a face full of fog when I turned around inside the cab to cover the roof above the passenger door. The fans seem to be working quite well. Cleared the room of fog very quickly.

 

I use the Devilbiss Dekups is that what you use also? Yes I do love them and as you found you can paint upside down as that is the only way to get paint on the bottom of the roof.
Bladders also make it easy for clean up, just have to clean the spray head and done.
Is your Devilbiss gun a Finish line? I have Eastwoods Start line gun set and for what I do I think they are pretty good.

The color you using a single stage or 2 stage BC/CC? If it is a single stage then I can see no clear but if 2 stage I would clear it.
Also why did you prim the roof? If there were bare metal places I can see it but other wise?
My red is 80% clear / 20% tint and could see right thru it so needed a lot of coats to cover. Part way thru the body work on the outside I ran out of primer. The primer I could get was a different so I have to re-prim the whole outside so the color would be the same on all panels. The roof and inside is not close to the outside so was not worried if they matched if that is why you primed it.

On the fans it sounds like you have to much air flow if you were getting FOG in the face LOL
Maybe it was a good thing you put primer on the roof now you know the air flow rate.
I know you said Bill said if you did the whole truck in 1 shot the paint mist would cause an issue.
Do you think toy would have that with the air flow you have? Not that I am telling you to do it in 1 shot.
On mine the cab would have been where that would have shown up but I used a slow drying / high temp reducer and put the last coat on pretty heavy so any mist would sink into the wet paint.

On the slow / med / fast thinners & reducers it is like they never heard of them down here. I guess everyone has spray boots set at 70* so they only stock the fast drying.
Waiting to see color on that bad boy
Dave ----

 

I liked it better before the clear was applied. (top pic) It'll look better to me with a coat of road film.



That mask job on the dash? Key, shifter and steering wheel remain fully functional.

 

Pretty tired after yesterday and I needed to save some strength to mow the lawn today. I reinstalled the wiper motor and assembly. I had cleaned them up and painted them a few weeks ago.

I was just sitting in the empty cab thinking about this unusual dent in the floor board.


Thirty years ago, I was sitting in the truck, parked in the alley next to my favorite tavern. A guy who I was aquatinted with but didn't know very well approached the truck and stuck a gun in the window. I had just been in a verbal altercation with him inside. I believe he was intoxicated. I grabbed his hand and gun and pulled them inside. As I attempted to wrest the gun out of his hand, it discharged. Put a .380 slug through the seat and into the floor board. I secured the weapon before another shot went off. The guy didn't seem to have wanted the situation to escalate to the point that it did and was then apologetic. I'm pretty sure I still have that cheap .380 around here somewhere as I never gave it back.

The path of the magic bullet.

 

Makes you think...

Paint is looking real good by the way.