That looks pretty stout, Daniel. I doubt it will separate. One thing I have read, and keep in mind it was with welding, ghosting lines will show from in the flanged area.

 

At the factory the painting is done electrostatically has been for decades (1950's/60's) this draws the paint into nooks and crannies. The body shell is painted with the doors attached.
After paint and cure the doors are removed fitted out as is the interior of the vehicle, the are then 2 are married again using a lifting/placement jig to support the door during install.
Any major adjustment of the door structure is done when the body is in the white (this is why no 2 doors fit the same on older vehicles)

When restoring, do a test fit-up and do any tweaking to the door structure, then remove the door from the A-pillar (leaving the hinges on the door) paint the A-pillar where the hinges mount and the hinge side of the door and the hinges (one light coat) let cure then reinstall the door and finish paint.

 

A lot cars in the 60’s/70’s and before, didn’t get paint behind the hinges. Such as a corvette. On a proper restoration, that will actually be replicated.

I found this article on history of painting doing some research. It’s pretty good.
https://res.mdpi.com/d_attachment/co...s-06-00024.pdf

 

Thanks for bringing me this information. Right now my truck's passenger door seems to be hung properly. I am wondering if the fender should be hung along with the valence to confirm proper fit.

 

Never ever hurts to do a fit-up. Then you know exactly where stuff goes and how much stuff (shims etc) are needed. Then there is no guessing during assembly and the chances of marring a new paint job are much lower.

 

Most cars did not get painted behind the hinges they still don;t today. And I never said any different so not sure what your point is.. When you're doing it yourself you can fix that, as it always a place for rust to start. And unless you are doing a concours restoration only an idiot would not paint behind the hinges on the A pillar..

 

No point. Just talkin’. Sorry to interrupt.

 

My paint guy, who also sold me on the adhesive, said that all the epoxy primer I put on should shield it from the halo effect. Be very careful not to leave any high spots when affixing the patches. Unlike welding, you would not want to have to hammer on the work. I did not have to. I was very careful to fit the panels where they laid close to perfectly with no stress. As mentioned, the Clecos were merely to squeeze out the excess adhesive.

And I like those chrome wheel arches. I may want to shop for some. Actually, I already shopped but didn't find any. Not an exhaustive search though. I now know that they exist.

 

Didn't do much on the truck yesterday and today. Yesterday was lawn, garden and landscape. You can't let that stuff get away from you this time of year.

Today I did find time to hang the driver's door and place the fenders to double-check fits.

It's all going to work out.

Looking at a new color. Ford calls it Leadfoot Gray. Toyota calls it Urban Khaki.

 

Interesting color. Got a hint of green in it, I think.

 

I like the color. It works well with chrome trim as well as blacked out trim.

 

The only thing I did on the truck today was try to get an count of those few bolts and nuts I broke taking the fenders off. There is a local store that should have anything I need. Should have done this a month ago while things were fresh in my mind.

I built an air cooler for my forty-eight year old Westinghouse air compressor. Wrecked out all the piping for a redo. I'll have to finish tomorrow as I've had enough for one day.




The cooler and retrofit piping is 100% salvage and scavenge. I will have to actually buy only one item, a 1/4" pipe nipple to install the last drain valve.

 

Fin tube base board tubing would have been better as it will shed more heat as that is what it's made for.
I will have to post a picture of my cooler / dryer when on my pc.
Dave ----

 

Didn't have any fin tube. I used what I had.

I flushed with hot water and hydro tested.

 

Nice compressor you will not find one like that today, lucky if they last 10 years!
Looks to be a 2 stage unit so has to be 220 volt.
I also see what looks to be oil type un-loaders. When I worked at a hospital our control air used air un-loaders as does my compressor.

I got my fin tube from a scrap yard so was dirt cheap and most of it was new. I did have to buy the fittings and valves.

For testing I put air to it stood at the other end of the garage and turned on the compressor LOL
When it got to about 50 psi I shut down the air to check for any leaks. All was good so let it rip to 190 psi that the compressor turns off at.

80 gallon 2 stage compressor into the dryer, I have removed the regulator as it started leaking so the full 190 psi goes into my air piping system.

I have 5 hose drops: back of each bay, 1 between the 2 bays up front, and 1 on each side wall and 1 wall has a work bench.
All have drip legs and have not had any water at them. Back of 1 bay, hose hook up is facing us in picture.

I forget that hose is there most of the time LOL

Dave ----