AC Refrigerant Booster Testing
I'll be finding a thermometer soon and start to log my temps for comparison as raw data as well. North DFW area with many 100°+ days in a dark green crewcab with worn old tint that needs replacing (original owners installed)
Disclaimer:
A) my condenser has not been cleaned yet
B) EVAP fins need combing again
C) system *feels like* it is running really close to 100% oem AFAIK (kiddos sitting in rear with A/C max for 20+ minutes while I'm in Kroger they turn the fan down to 2 and the temp **** nearly into the red when its upper 90's afternoon & no shade)
D) the foam was installed 3 yrs ago when I got the truck
Did you see where I installed 99% UV blocking on my windshield that is nearly clear to the eye? That helped my in cab temperatures tremendously. We were so impressed with the performance of the tint on the truck windshield that we just had the same tint installed on our new to us 2016 Ford Escape. In the truck, in 100* heat with no clouds, you can put your hand on the dark part of the dash bezel and it is only slightly warmer than putting your hand on your arm or leg. It is amazing how well it works.
I just bought an IR gun, no idea why I haven't had one before. Even after 7 years of traveling long distance towing a camper...
Did you see where I installed 99% UV blocking on my windshield that is nearly clear to the eye? That helped my in cab temperatures tremendously. We were so impressed with the performance of the tint on the truck windshield that we just had the same tint installed on our new to us 2016 Ford Escape. In the truck, in 100* heat with no clouds, you can put your hand on the dark part of the dash bezel and it is only slightly warmer than putting your hand on your arm or leg. It is amazing how well it works.
I just bought an IR gun, no idea why I haven't had one before. Even after 7 years of traveling long distance towing a camper...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-thread-2.html
Post #28 is the pictures on the foam wrapped a/c line. For what it worth, I'm planning to get a new section of foam as the current one is starting to disintegrate.
As for the window tint, DUDE! I want to know all the details as I have been re-reseaching that stuff. It came out about 15 years ago but, I lost track of it & last summer finally re-ran across some stuff that's only at 80% IR reflection & it had ~80-85% light transmission so it's not "clear" as your stuff you found for the front windshield. I sooooo wanna do that!
I have a couple IR/laser thermometers, their accuracy isn't as precise as my original was - before it broke. And they don't register as high either. What's your brand & max temp you can see?
I can try to upload a pic of mine but, no guarantee that I can upload tomorrow as our DSL has been horrendous the last 4 weeks.
Sous, just checking pressures is pretty vague with r134. It can help pinpoint restrictions and failures, but isn't great at measuring.
R134 has the same static pressure at .5# as it does at 3.5#. Think of it like propane... liquid to gas phase shift etc.
The only way to accurately measure it is to recovery it and weigh it. Anything else is guesing.
From your description yours has been working but just not great. I assume it has just lost a bit of refrigerant over the years.
If you don't have a friend with a recovery machine, pay someone to do it. My recovery machine cost $5500, it's not something many people just have in their garage.
I charge $100 (an hour of labor) plus Refrigerant for a recovery, vacuum and recharge. $150 if it needs a pressure check.
Even a good system will loose 1/2# over 5 years, no compressor seals are perfect.
I would definately do it before adding the booster, the booster would probably be lost during the recovery process.
R134 has the same static pressure at .5# as it does at 3.5#. Think of it like propane... liquid to gas phase shift etc.
The only way to accurately measure it is to recovery it and weigh it. Anything else is guesing.
From your description yours has been working but just not great. I assume it has just lost a bit of refrigerant over the years.
Even a good system will loose 1/2# over 5 years, no compressor seals are perfect.
I mean if they’re known to leak off and the system is 20 years old then wouldn’t just a little be ok? Not saying go crazy with it.
I don’t know any reputable AC place in our area but do have some R134 on the shelf....
Maybe I should have said COULD instead of WILL.
Your better going to a lube shop or a not reputable shop for AC service than just guessing and dumping R134 wherever.
Read about pressure charts (you need an AC manifold and guages to do anything) and start at static, cold pressure.
Underhood temps running will make your pressures useless.
Maybe I should have said COULD instead of WILL.
Your better going to a lube shop or a not reputable shop for AC service than just guessing and dumping R134 wherever.
Read about pressure charts (you need an AC manifold and guages to do anything) and start at static, cold pressure.
Underhood temps running will make your pressures useless.
Believe I may have access to some gauges. I’m assuming the simple one (that I have) that just goes with the can on the low side isn’t good enough and I’ll need to read pressures on both sides.
Problem is mine still works, just not very well when really hot. Truly think it just needs a little recharge. But I’m a leary of letting someone I don’t trust mess with a 20 year old system that’s currently functioning.
I may do some digging to understand the charts you’re talking about and give it a swing if my uncle has the manifold gauges.
Now I’ll hush up so as not to de-rail Noob’s additive thread.
I was able to get these guys down to $20.00 on ebay but still have to wait a while for it to arrive since its coming from Italy. Just figured I would share since its a little cheaper. Looking forward to giving it a try, thanks for the heads up on this product FordTruckNoob 👍
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