When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Towed the 5th wheel 250 miles today in 90 degree heat up numerous 7%/6% grades and the AC was rock steady at 47-48 degrees the entire time. When we stopped in traffic as nearing the destination, the AC went up to as high as 59 degrees.
(30) rounds of cool shot ordered. It is supposed to ship today!! At least 1/2 is already committed between my fleet and requests from forum friends. Looking forward to seeing what this does to my truck that has a cleeeean condenser, radiator, etc, manual heater core shutoff valve and 38639 orifice tube. With dark tint on the windows, it’s gotta be pretty damn hot for me to run MAX AC on HI fan.
That said, there is a cold front coming and the weather lady promised ‘fall-like temps’ next week. Thank God. I almost tapped out and turned the AC on in the house yesterday afternoon!!
(30) rounds of cool shot ordered. It is supposed to ship today!! At least 1/2 is already committed between my fleet and requests from forum friends. Looking forward to seeing what this does to my truck that has a cleeeean condenser, radiator, etc, manual heater core shutoff valve and 38639 orifice tube. With dark tint on the windows, it’s gotta be pretty damn hot for me to run MAX AC on HI fan.
That said, there is a cold front coming and the weather lady promised ‘fall-like temps’ next week. Thank God. I almost tapped out and turned the AC on in the house yesterday afternoon!!
What is this 38639 orifice tube? What does it do, and where is it installed?
What is this 38639 orifice tube? What does it do, and where is it installed?
It is a particular size of orifice tube. It is installed in the joint between the dryer and the line coming from the condenser coil. Its job is to turn refrigerant from a liquid state to a vapor state.
It is a particular size of orifice tube. It is installed in the joint between the dryer and the line coming from the condenser coil. Its job is to turn refrigerant from a liquid state to a vapor state.
I assume this requires a system drain, break system to change out, then refill. Correct?
I’m a bit nervous about AC systems, as long ago it seemed everything worked fine until there was an issue and once the repairs started they seemed to never stop. I imagine this is a bit of unfounded fear on my part but typically have the mindset of if it works don’t touch it. I will have to get over that eventually and get to work on improving my AC output.
I assume this requires a system drain, break system to change out, then refill. Correct?
I’m a bit nervous about AC systems, as long ago it seemed everything worked fine until there was an issue and once the repairs started they seemed to never stop. I imagine this is a bit of unfounded fear on my part but typically have the mindset of if it works don’t touch it. I will have to get over that eventually and get to work on improving my AC output.
Yup, that's right. You have to drain (with refrigerant recovery ideally), open the system, replace the orifice tube and any other parts that need changing, PURGE (the most important part) and refill.
The reason AC systems seem to have constant repairs after the initial fault is because barring damage due to impact, the other source of issues is acid forming in the refrigerant from contaminants. That acid flows through the entire system corroding pinholes in the metallic parts and turning seals to mush.
I never open a system up just to change orifice tube. But, I ALWAYS put the ‘cold air’ orifice tube in a system that has been open for any reason.
But, if I had a recovery machine and didn’t have to buy refrigerant - I might!! This makes a significant difference in AC temps.
With the orifice tube and heater core supply shut off and clean condenser, evaporator, etc - you get the coldest air possible. I often send families away with the MAX AC challenge. I tell them to leave with max ac and high fan and tell me who taps out from being too cold first!!
Ok, I just wasted a whole tube of this Cool Shot. I started the truck and put on max a.c.. I connected the cool shot with black connector. Not sure if I had it locked in yet. But the plunger popped out and the Cool Shot just leaked out everywhere. I connected to the cylinder towards the firewall which my understanding is the low pressure port. What did I do wrong? If any leftovers available on here for purchase please let me know.
I just tried to put in some cool shot in my other truck . the adapter would not depress the valve far enough in the low pressure port therefore I was not able to push the cool shot into the port. After trying about 6 times the cool shot leaked out a little At a time from reconnecting and now there is none left . What a bummer, the first truck I put it in the adapter worked fine, so just a fair warning to others, the adapter that comes with the cool shot may or may not work. I'm pretty sure FTN warned about this previously. If you are not able to push the fluid in the first time, don't keep retrying, get the right adapter . SkySkiJason if you think you will have extras I will take one, obviously sjbj is ahead of me in line
Ok, I just wasted a whole tube of this Cool Shot. I started the truck and put on max a.c.. I connected the cool shot with black connector. Not sure if I had it locked in yet. But the plunger popped out and the Cool Shot just leaked out everywhere. I connected to the cylinder towards the firewall which my understanding is the low pressure port. What did I do wrong? If any leftovers available on here for purchase please let me know.
same thing happened to me but I didn't lose any of the fluid for some reason, I think sous said he hooked up the adapter first, then started the truck, then the hose and syringe?
There are plenty left and I’ll order another batch if ‘we’ need more.
Since I have not fully studied how to put this in the truck - I’m not intimately familiar with the process.
I will say that engine off or A/C compressor not running, the pressure on the low side of the system is MUCH higher. So engine running and A/C on sounds like a better time to hook up and inject.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.