Worth restoring

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #106  
Old 04-03-2018, 01:45 AM
Mar10_562's Avatar
Mar10_562
Mar10_562 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by The Frenchtown Flyer
Somebody posted a pic of a tank fastened to his tractor's tire with the rear of the tractor jacked up and running. I thought that was an ingenious solution to rotating/tumbling the tank, albeit not without risk if left unattended.
innovative haha
 
  #107  
Old 04-03-2018, 01:49 AM
Mar10_562's Avatar
Mar10_562
Mar10_562 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Tedster9
Tanks can definitely be cleaned internally. Kind of a pita though. If financials are an issue though then go for it. I would recommend buying new hoses though. Buy fuel rated hose, radiator hose is maybe the right size so it is tempting but it won't hold up to gasoline.

Different ways to go about cleaning the fuel tank out. Usually involve installing nuts & bolts, maybe short lengths of chain, even clean rocks or marbles, inside the tank and strong solvents or paint thinner maybe. Spin or roll the tank and let them go to work removing the crud. I read once where a guy tied the tank to a cement mixer and spun the tank that way, you get the idea. Don't have to replace anything fuel related necessarily, but it does have to be clean.
So I just used a high pressure washer and some of the nasty stuff came out. Maybe not all but the clear fuel filter seems to show that gasoline coming through was clean. So I hope that holds haha. Maybe down the road I will buy a new gas tank or invest into having it cleaned.
 
  #108  
Old 04-03-2018, 01:54 AM
Mar10_562's Avatar
Mar10_562
Mar10_562 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So she runs again! Turns out my brother moved the selection switch for the tank and that one was empty haha. But now it runs and she feels solid. I checked the brakes before getting a good run and bleed out the old fluid for the most part. I performed the radiator flush with a cleaner and when I drained it, metal shavings were in the antifreeze! haha either a really good cleaner or a sign of things to come. I also cleaned the carburetor as much I could without rebuilding and that thing was filthy! Layers of dirt came out. I'll see if I can post pictures of it later.

So I am going to invest in a new carburetor. What is a good option? Why are they so expensive ? Do they offer more performance just by swapping to the higher end ones like edlebrook or Holly? Or do they offer more tunability?
 
  #109  
Old 04-03-2018, 02:30 AM
Tedster9's Avatar
Tedster9
Tedster9 is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 0
Received 66 Likes on 65 Posts
Can get more performance by going to a larger carburetor, to a point, but it's very soon limited by the stock exhaust restriction. And only mostly see improvement at the high end, at high RPM anyway.

Carburetors are kind of spendy sometimes for "rebuilt" units aren't they?
 
  #110  
Old 04-03-2018, 12:19 PM
1986F150six's Avatar
1986F150six
1986F150six is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Sheffield, AL
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 14 Posts
Originally Posted by Mar10_562
So I am going to invest in a new carburetor. What is a good option? Why are they so expensive ? Do they offer more performance just by swapping to the higher end ones like edlebrook or Holly? Or do they offer more tunability?
Recent thread which might be of assistance if you are planning to remain stock: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-concerns.html
 
  #111  
Old 04-03-2018, 01:46 PM
Mar10_562's Avatar
Mar10_562
Mar10_562 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Tedster9
Can get more performance by going to a larger carburetor, to a point, but it's very soon limited by the stock exhaust restriction. And only mostly see improvement at the high end, at high RPM anyway.

Carburetors are kind of spendy sometimes for "rebuilt" units aren't they?
Oh okay i get you.

yes they are. I figured that for a couple more bucks id go with something that would give me mlre performance
 
  #112  
Old 04-03-2018, 01:47 PM
Mar10_562's Avatar
Mar10_562
Mar10_562 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by 1986F150six
Recent thread which might be of assistance if you are planning to remain stock: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-concerns.html
thanks. Time to read up
 
  #113  
Old 04-05-2018, 07:25 PM
Mar10_562's Avatar
Mar10_562
Mar10_562 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am now at a crossroads. Funds have gotten tighter for the moment as graduation expenses have hit me. I might have to let this truck go. Sad thing is I don't want to because I love how much space this thing has inside and I liked working on it. I also have a '06 toyota tacoma that I lost to a fire, and a toyota pickup with a 22re that needs some love. I know I can learn plenty on the f-150 but I need to chose and the other trucks are in better shape. I would love to learn how to do body work on this truck because it does need a descent amount of work done. I'm around $100 bucks deep and I got it to a point where I know it runs decent. My thing is, again, I don't want to junk it for $200 bucks they may offer me or so. My question is how much is this thing worth? I know I won't get $1k but is around a couple of hundreds bucks? Does anybody local to Long Beach need a project truck ? Let me know if anyone would is interested. It would be nice to get more than what the junk yard offers but mainly, I don't want to trash a truck if someone else can use it. Just a feeler. I will try and get better pictures of it up later on tonight as there are some spots that are in bad shape. So let me know guys. Thanks.
 
  #114  
Old 04-06-2018, 02:06 PM
FuzzFace2's Avatar
FuzzFace2
FuzzFace2 is online now
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Angier, NC
Posts: 23,637
Received 2,089 Likes on 1,782 Posts
So how long did this truck sit before you started to work on it and only have $100 into it at this point?
If it sits a little longer till you get the dollars & time what will it run? Most of the time nothing unless you are paying rent on the parking space.
If the truck starts, runs & drives you will get more $$ for it than if it just starts and runs kind of ok.

As for how much you can get for it, only as much as someone is willing to pay!
If you must sell her check CL in your area to see what others are going for and in what shape and go from there to price yours.

If you need something to drive now sell everything, both Toys and the Ford and take that money and get something good to drive.
Other wise let it sit starting it once a week to keep the motor in good shape and do the rest when you can.

Just my .02
Dave ----

ps: I have a non-ford project I have had for over 25 years and never once thought of selling it. Before I did any work to it I was in to it for 2K, given to me for payment or I got nothing.
I can tell you I have a lot more than that into it now and not even close to being on the road.
My ford project I got Dec of 2015, body off frame rebuild. When I have time and money I do a little to it other wise it sits, no money spent to sit there. Same for the above project other than garage floor space.
 
  #115  
Old 04-06-2018, 07:34 PM
Mar10_562's Avatar
Mar10_562
Mar10_562 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
So how long did this truck sit before you started to work on it and only have $100 into it at this point?
If it sits a little longer till you get the dollars & time what will it run? Most of the time nothing unless you are paying rent on the parking space.
If the truck starts, runs & drives you will get more $$ for it than if it just starts and runs kind of ok.

As for how much you can get for it, only as much as someone is willing to pay!
If you must sell her check CL in your area to see what others are going for and in what shape and go from there to price yours.

If you need something to drive now sell everything, both Toys and the Ford and take that money and get something good to drive.
Other wise let it sit starting it once a week to keep the motor in good shape and do the rest when you can.

Just my .02
Dave ----

ps: I have a non-ford project I have had for over 25 years and never once thought of selling it. Before I did any work to it I was in to it for 2K, given to me for payment or I got nothing.
I can tell you I have a lot more than that into it now and not even close to being on the road.
My ford project I got Dec of 2015, body off frame rebuild. When I have time and money I do a little to it other wise it sits, no money spent to sit there. Same for the above project other than garage floor space.
No I get that. It runs and drives at this point. And it does take up space in the driveway. Now I just have to pay for the back DMV fee's, put the hood on and secure it so it locks. I will just have to invest in a battery, a used one at that, that way I can move it for the street sweeper. It just looks like it will require a lot of body work and it is what is putting me off. I guess I will have to learn how repair body damage. I will put up some higher resolution pictures so you guys can get a feel for what I mean.
 
  #116  
Old 04-06-2018, 07:48 PM
Mar10_562's Avatar
Mar10_562
Mar10_562 is offline
Junior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts



The driver side is better than the passenger side


I'm pointing at a hole where there is suction coming from the carb. I will have to check it out if there is a fitting that I can use to then get a vacuum hose on.


That was the spare tire


Beat up interior


more beat up


Of course the roof is fine.


alternator is fine, just rust stain from the radiator.


Idk if they came black or painted.



I have to crimp on a better conductor, as I used a good ol' 12 gauge


One of the rust spots. This is what is the most worrisome.


more rust


and more rust


Again, better conductors and clean up the wire with tape or wire wrap


This side isn't too bad. But the window regulator won't hold it up


I'm not sure if it is plexi glass or not.



radio ?


maybe a valve cover, or at least paint it


For the life of me, the door does not open all the way. I don't know how this happens, but it rubs the fender. Misaligned body lines?



Rust bubbling the bondo?



I have no idea why my cousin sprayed it black.


I'm guessing somebody loaded the truck a little to aggressively.


and more rust


found a universal air clearn for 14 bucks.


I'm not sure on the water pump. Need to get some power steering fluid to see if its good. I'd hate if it leaks after I fill it.


ICM and a reservoir but i don't know for what


The only thing that works is the speedometer. The oil pressure sensor and ampmeter for the battery works.









no more heater core for now


there are some spots that have rusted through the floor.


I know that this overspray will be removed with some clay.


Maybe a seat covers for now and then upholster it later.


Closer look of dent
 
  #117  
Old 04-06-2018, 08:55 PM
FuzzFace2's Avatar
FuzzFace2
FuzzFace2 is online now
Fleet Owner
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Angier, NC
Posts: 23,637
Received 2,089 Likes on 1,782 Posts
Why does the DMV fees need to be paid up or put out on the street? If you do pay the fees what needs to be done to drive it every day not counting body work?

On the vacuum leak on the carb try and find a screw that you can screw into it to plug it as it should make the motor run a little better.
That carb also looks like it is from a newer feed back system truck and that could also hurt how the motor runs but if it runs now don't worry about it.

From the pictures the body does not look too bad and is a good place to learn on.
The right side door does not open all the way because that fender is pushed in. When the door opens it is to go behind the fender, look at the other side to see how it goes.
I don't know with out seeing it in person if it can be fixed or better off going with a new used one but will say for you a good used one might be the better way to go.
The rust around the front glass is kind of normal, it is where the molding clips are. You would need to pull the molding off, there is a tool to re-leas the clips. Do not use a screw driver as you can break the glass.
Hit the rust with a wire brush and treat the rust with a converter, I use an acid. Now because I am guessing you don't have a welder or the skill sand it and fill with filler (Bondo), sand prim & paint.
On the bed when its time maybe replace it or try your hand doing body work on it ,,,,,,, maybe before you try the cab?

I still say if you can store the truck with out paying I would hold onto it as you do enjoy the truck and work on it when you can.
Dave ----
 
  #118  
Old 04-09-2018, 01:28 PM
1986F150six's Avatar
1986F150six
1986F150six is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Sheffield, AL
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes on 14 Posts
The reservoir has two compartments. The one nearest the front of the truck is an overflow for the radiator coolant. The rear section holds the windshield wash solution.

 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
paulstruck
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
48
05-09-2020 09:17 AM
jt45e
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
04-06-2019 08:00 AM
Gila Monster
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
24
01-29-2019 08:41 AM
Junior.trapper
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
09-28-2016 11:06 AM
EcoBoosted
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
52
11-18-2012 07:25 PM



Quick Reply: Worth restoring



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:50 PM.