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Well I found the chassis electrical system. Looks like I have a bit of studying to do. But any tricks or tips that you guys can offer would be of big help, thanks. I will look out for bad grounds as you guys mentioned.
The blue plug looks like the voltage regulator connector.The bracket holds an alternator.
I hate to be a Buzzkill, but that truck has many issues. I don't want to see you get discouraged so I am going to suggest you ask a skilled technician wise in the ways of Ford engines to look at it and prioritize what needs to be done to get it running. It will save you grief and money in the long run. Maybe a mobile repair service should look at it.
The blue plug looks like the voltage regulator connector.The bracket holds an alternator.
I hate to be a Buzzkill, but that truck has many issues. I don't want to see you get discouraged so I am going to suggest you ask a skilled technician wise in the ways of Ford engines to look at it and prioritize what needs to be done to get it running. It will save you grief and money in the long run. Maybe a mobile repair service should look at it.
Thanks for the honesty. I discovered the starter relay is also a problem. It does not click when it gets the signal from the switch. I am weighing out my options
I wondered about this. The shop manuals always start on page 1 with a compression test on a motor, before moving on to tuneup procedures. The logic or reasoning behind this, it is a waste of money to try and tuneup an engine that has internal defects, or is plumb worn out.
I wondered about this. The shop manuals always start on page 1 with a compression test on a motor, before moving on to tuneup procedures. The logic or reasoning behind this, it is a waste of money to try and tuneup an engine that has internal defects, or is plumb worn out.
i get that , but im simply trying to get her started, then i will run the compression check. I changed out the oil and gas just as a precaution. Speaking of compression , anybody have experience with the compression tester from harbours freight? I knpw autozone will can lend a kit, but for under 50 bucks , i dont mind have one at the house.
Thanks to all of input and help, i managed to get her running! She sounds a little rough but it was confidence booster !!!
it turns it was just in need of a (what the electrical schematic in the manual calls it ) starter relay. The metal where it was grounded to was pretty rusted so a wire brush and 14 bucks later , she turned on !
she dies without gassing it or starter fluid( like one of suggests , i ran a line to an auxilary tank) and she shakes a little. So far no leaks. It does not seem to increase the battery's voltage while running ( alternator seems to be missing wires ) but with the manual and you guys, i think i should be able to take these on. Thanks again.
WAY TO GO!
With a little more running to "work things in" it can run better also but a guess you will need to check things, adjust, replace and adjust again.
We are here to help in the next step
Dave ----
So o did a comoression check today. The manual doesnt say a specific pressure reading, it just says that the lowest cylinder shouldnt be more than 75% under the highest cylinder. All 6 were in between 145 psi and 150 psi. Anybody know if these are good readings ? Thanks
WAY TO GO!
With a little more running to "work things in" it can run better also but a guess you will need to check things, adjust, replace and adjust again.
We are here to help in the next step
Dave ----
Thanks. The one thing that is troubling is where the the fan is mounted to, that specific place shakes when its turning. I cant see anything where i can fit a socket to tighten it or so. Anybody has haf this haooen before ?
So o did a comoression check today. The manual doesnt say a specific pressure reading, it just says that the lowest cylinder shouldnt be more than 75% under the highest cylinder. All 6 were in between 145 psi and 150 psi. Anybody know if these are good readings ? Thanks
Not too bad! Engine isn't brandy new, but then you didn't expect it to be either I betcha.
Important thing is that all cylinders are roughly matched and there's no major internal defects. Compression may well even improve after a few heat cycles and highway runs, tune-up adjustments &c. Rings get sticky with sludged up oil and varnished fuel. A little Marvel's in the fuel tank and crankcase is a good plan in older engines that have been hibernating. Keeps lifters and rings and valves happy.
now another question. Is this completely wired up? The electrical diagram lists more wires but this wires seem to be to that plug that i posted a few days back. Will this set up charge up the battery i think thats all i need but i want to make sure ? I need to figure that out before buying a new alternator. Check it out
Not too bad! Engine isn't brandy new, but then you didn't expect it to be either I betcha.
Important thing is that all cylinders are roughly matched and there's no major internal defects. Compression may well even improve after a few heat cycles and highway runs, tune-up adjustments &c. Rings get sticky with sludged up oil and varnished fuel. A little Marvel's in the fuel tank and crankcase is a good plan in older engines that have been hibernating. Keeps lifters and rings and valves happy.
that stuff is great , i put some into the sparkplug holes and it enabled me to manually turn her over ! I did not realize that we could use that in the crankcase and gas tank ! Thats stuff is versatile !
thanks for the tip
After a closer look I think the thermactor air pump was mounted there and it was driven off the small sheave on the water pump pulley.
yeah it isnt the alternator but im still having a problem on what the blue plug is. Im afraid that it could be the voltage regulator as it had a wire leading to the alternator. And it has other wores clipped off. I took the alternator over to autozone to have it tested and they saod it was good but my battery doesnt charge up. Anybody know if that ks what the plug is ?
