Got it. It did not smell anything close to gasoline. I drained it earlier today. It was a hassle but i couldnt just use a hose and pump that i got from harbkurs freight as the gas tank had some kind of mesh protection. Amything else i should check out wuile i have it out ?
I ended up pulling the gas tank out and then syphoned the fuel. Take a look

 

sorry i meant it is from the 1980 haha. It has an automatic transmission. I want to say its f150.

 

Yikes. Yeah, it's returning to asphalt from whence it came. Flush the tank and lines and everything else that should flow fuel.

Well does it have an integral (electric) fuel pump and filter and all that fancy gee-whiz stuff in thar? Because dropping the tank once is probably plenty right?

 

If you're anywhere near Dallas I have an unused 19 gallon steel side tank sitting in the shed. And a used 19 gallon plastic rear tank. And new filler necks and hoses too I think if I root around enough. For/from an '82 F250 I no longer own.

 

I appreciate it, but I'm in Long beach unfortunately

 

So I located the crank bolt and I was able to turn it over by hand. At first it took a little bit of elbow grease but after it was pretty easy. I did pour Magic Mystery Oil into it days prior so I don't know if it was seized up before it, but either way, I am excited. All of the belts and pulleys moved along with it.

 

I also checked the the coolant level and there was none. The radiator seems to be aftermarket or at least not the stock one, as it fits loose and does not sit properly within what looks like a cavity where it is suppose to sit. It was also rusted pretty bad. All the hoses has rusted leading into the where the coolant was fed into the motor. I will post pictures of it later. Question is whether I can start it and then change it later with some type of coolant cleaning agent or better to do that now, as I don't have enough funds for a radiator as of now.

 

The radiator inlet, where the radiator feeds into the engine, and the coolant hoses all have rust.

 

You can run the motor for a minute or two with no coolant just let it cool before putting water in it.
Once you know it runs add water so you can run it longer to make sure everything is ok and it will hold coolant. You don't want to add good stuff and have it leak out.

Once you know all is good then try cleaning the system before adding the good stuff.
Dave - - - -

 

You can also get an inexpensive back-flush kit at an auto parts store that you hook up to a garden hose and run tap water through the radiator. I'd also pull the drain plugs at the bottom of the block cooling passages (one on each side) and rod out all the rust to get those drains flowing.

 

Thanks for the heads up.
I tried starting it today disregarding the electrical mess I had. Since I was told that there was no work done to the electrical system when it was started years back, I assumed that it would work. So I started it and nothing. So it looks like I'm going to have to tackle the electrical mess under the hood. The more I looked for the electrical wires, the more disconnections and cut wires I found. These are the few.
There are a lot of wires that go no where or are cut from what appears to be the starter relay ?


This also seems to be unplugged. Is these what is suppose to lead to the ignition coil? The manual shows where this connection leads to but in my engine bay, I seem to be missing a large component haha. So I'm guessing I need to purchase or look for it at a junkyard before starting it back up. This is the unplugged connection I'm referring to.




And this is the cavity where I think I need to bolt something back up haha. Somebody correct me if I am wrong.


While I wait for the part to arrive after I order is there anything else I should be checking for before start up other than the electrical system ? thanks

 

I apologize in advance if I use the wrong terminology haha

 

I think I am missing the starter in the truck? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. I usually see them at the bottom of the cars right ?

 

The second photo, that's a ported vacuum switch - connects to a manifold vacuum source and then maybe to the trap door on the air cleaner to let in warm air from the exhaust manifold stove while the engine is cold. In the bottom left corner of the second photo there's a pipe fitting that's crimped shut...which relates to the last photo, where the AIR (smog) pump once was. The ported vacuum switch may have connected to the smog pump system vs. air cleaner. Since you're in California no smog pump could be problematic re: passing inspection.

The electrical connector looks like the self test connection, no worries there.

 

Thanks man. I was already getting a headache. haha